Pete Lewis

cant see from the photo but the smooth ground shaft has to have a cover with a lip seal pressed inside, the scroll type has a very obvious helical scroll on the shaft and no space for a lip seal , the nose cover with the seal its only a light tap fit in the bell housing , the bell housings are the same what ever seal /cover is fitted its easy removable so if youre cover has a seal inside its correct Pete

the box you show must have an oil seal in the front cover ( lightly pressed into the clutch housing) if your exiting happens to have a scroll then this cover and seal will need changing , theres also gasket between the clutch hsg and the front face and the two lower bolts need a copper washer and some seal in the threads. as they piece the box below oil level. Pete

There is always float due to the bearing design, the shaft is supported in the flywheel spigot bearing so then its controlled at both ends. And no wiggle when in car. the main unseen wear points are the mainshaft spigot, supported by a small bearing inside the shaft you are trying to wiggle and the layshaft spindle which can suffer needle pick up which dgrades the shaft surface.

You can with a fiddle get the matrix out from a smiths, I have no idea about the Delaney, garden hose on the tubes shifts some crud but will flow well with only a couple of tubes cleared, doesnt mean the many others are flowing. valves can clog up like Eddie's tubes check you have a std. 82c thermostat and its working. cold climates went to 88c but thats too hot for normal english climate and is more common on younger leaner cars of the 70-80s Pete

its known that you cant mix or refill empty systems with glycol or OAT organic , everthing has to be fully cleaned or it can gel and block waterways so guess it depends on the basic make up of waterless, as the cars have lasted OK for years , I cant see waterless being an investment apart form not having to replace it from time to time . Pete

I know not all inserts fit all blade carriers , but is there any mileage in marketing inserts . just cut to length , as an option ? Pete

Think thats a good move let us know if things improve pete

you can fit the early 6 screw into a bayonet ring by trimming the float unit platform to suit the diameter or the bayonet sealing ring did this on my 64 Vitesse6 as fitted a new tank from Fitchets , this was herald sized with the bayonet ring , so just cut the disc to suit you cant change the float unit as 6 hole is generally totally different resistance to the bayonet, due to different gauge design which must be matched whilst we gained some boot space we also reduced the range and joined the frequent filling station visitors list Pete

and as some don't replicate the points operating position you must re check the timing when fitting some units to make sure its correct after fitment. Pete

you dont want resistive anything on our cars, all quite useless, I guess these were in the form of use for radio suppression, unless youre using medium wave most FM frequencies dont seem to pick up ignition intereferences you need all the spark you can get so youre right to never use plugs with an R in the suffix and suggest respectful disposal of the caps in the bin Pete

All three rails look and are the same the serial prefix denotes the spec of the box, any spitfire box will start with an F herald with a G this will change ratio, s input shafts, output flanges to suit the model ranges its fitted too. As said the switch bracket is a common fitment to support either a reverse or overdrive switch on any of the model range be it herald spitfire, vitesse , Gt6 , Bond etc pete

Also another good old fault thats like you have is check the coil is correct polarity ie the dizzy link goes to the neg coil terminal and the ign feed to the positive This is for negative earth for older models postivive earth is the opposite again this can work well for a while , it stops , you get out and faf around , the coil cools and works again well before stoppping again check also for fuel connections sucking air between pump and tank again will idle for ever but on demand fails after abfew minutes of load . Pete

There are some very poor condensers about , and they seem to perform as you describe, as the fuel system has been disturbed one very common cuprit is slivers of fuel hose get cut off when fitting to the metal pipes, these float about and end up blocking the back , unseen hole in the float needle gets held there by fuel pressure and the float level drops and you get the 2 3 cly misfire as only one carb is functioning, when you stop the pressure drops the debris works back to the pipe and then off you go again till it returns take off the float tops remove the valve, clean behind it, pump, some fuel into jar the cuplrit often then shows itself pete

GE is early 13/60 would have been a cd 150 stromberg as std. Depends what head is fitted to determine the compression ratio as a rough guide any spitfire spec with hs2 would be somewhat close apart from the what cam what head diferences. Pete

quick search shows lots of reasons/reviews why they are better below 7c but didnt see much to advise about in the warm and dry summer I guess the name says it all winter /mud & snow Pete

The bracket wqs used for reverse and an oposite fit for overdive, but then the cam had a double lever the extended remote was std if you needed a reverse or overdrive inhibitor. not shown much for herald but search any vitesse or gt6 and these brackets get shown pete

You can get 7mm wide arms to add load to the blade but need a blade to match other thoughts are there is aften a extruding medium left on the blade edge which can be difficult to remove from the squegee lip also with the arm vertical check the arm is realy parallel to the glass, if its off then you get the blade judder , simple to use a small adjustable spanner to give the arm a light twist to align it. I did get a pair of modern aero blades with the fully sprung leaf, the arm fitting was appalling sizeand needed a 10mm arm, they may have worked but with such ashort blade was like having a hedgehog going back forth. always make sure the arm is not in contact with the blade carrier causing a resistance to screen contour pete

Thats the std set up for a box with no taping on the top cover, overdrive would have adouble cam and a opposite mount brkt. With another switch. brackets vary some are on the top cover screws as youres, some come off the remote studs pete

They do take a week or three or so to post these off, worth a carefull read on mine it said it was despatched 10 years before it was built but a quick call got a replacement without the typo next day a very useful document pete

ROger your English's is better tan my typing Ha,,!!! Pete

Hi roger , i also started a tools and tips on october 20th but it didnt take off having run the last ( Lost) forum we had a load of idea's in tips and odds and sods but I cant be doing all that again. its a good place but with no chapters or headings to browse things like this just get lost unless you wade through the whole thing Pete

Here, s hoping you have a 13/60 ?. early gearbox needed a extention to the remote with a cam and top mounted bracket later like the 13.60 may have as you describe a blanking plug under the remote housing its tunnel off to have a look see, if no plug then you need parts and bracket like shown on eg GT6 with overdrive of a seperate dash switch with a bright warning lamp, or buzzer pete

most servo stick on due to the air valve not releasing, and blocked filter or misalignment of the piston rod through the case. having said that ive had tested servos of all types over the years on warranty work and my aftermarket universal one supplied to all did exactly the same as you with the experience, delightful on entering a roundabout for a quick exit...noooo youre stopping. always a 2 -3 second delay despite much strip and examine , upping the air valve spring rate and ensure all is free , it was replaced in an air of unnatural giving up, the replacement was totally different better assist and instant disengage ,,,, why....dont have a clue, Pete

think Bern has a plan with a new club sticker Pete

other things to improve the volt drop is to add a bonded earth from bonnet direct to the battery earth tag, also worth bonding the body tubs and chassis My Vit6 was a 64 and with the original set up gave 10.5 volts at the pointed end . with halogen bulbs and 14v you need sun glasses to dim the road sign reflections the improvement is as said the best thing you can do for peanuts , I agree its a no -brainer this is the cheapest modification you can do easilly with amazing improvement, Pete