Pete Lewis

as the new felt ( dropglass channel) has to be attached to the main NDV vertical frame rail its best you withdraw the assembly, if you leave it loose it will generally go up/ down with the glass and if not attatched there s a good chance it all flies out when you slam the door as the glass tries to escape look out for the wire constraint attached to the base , between the bottom of the two channels. Pete

might not be the right approach but I have dropped a note to moderators about the continuing unrest about uploading pictures nowt to do with me but maybe it gets the message across anyone can report to the moderators by clicking the greyed out 'report ' tab which will open up if you click on it Pete

Ian there are different depth of mount brkts. , not all the same ,, cant remember where the deep/ shallower fit had some feeling the deep ones are rearward, and shallower under the baulkhead .... I might be having a senior moment Pete

think it was in a PC mag because of so many aftermarket failures they cut a condenser up to find it only had a few mm of waxed foil inside, it should have 9metres or something like that. hence that little shiny thing is a gutless wonder , so no buffering and blown points and rotors with rivets allow the spark to jump to earth on the cam. Grrr Pete

I believe the early drum /type 12 and 14 calipers were 0.625 the mCly dia changed from 0,625 to 0,7" with intro of type 16 calipers as greater volume required due to piston displacement , fit a 0.7 to a 0.625 spec and you will raise the pedal pressure for the same braking. pete

Ian, the plot is as clear as mud, every book a different story. Ian, I used solids for the the diff crossmember, and the fwd baulkhead , for good canvass /bonded washers I bought a large truck mudflap and cut loads out with a hole saw. easy and tough. with a wonky old body you use an much solid spacer as needed with one glued on rubber, dont use loads of rubber. we had over 20mm of packer to level the tub to a new straight chassis. also worth make up some short earth bonds between the tubs and to the chassis. to stop the ever changing door gaps made up some wooden strechers to fit /jam between the door seal flanges and then once the door was an ok fit ,countersunk a bolt in the sill which was covered by the tread strip. never to move again. if the doors are proud at the bottom B post but tight at the waist you have tub spread, thats another stroy. just some idea's Pete

pedal wear /excess free play problems can be easy to fix on some , more complex on others some weld and re drill the clevis holes in the pedal and the mcyl fork. some drill both out to 10mm and fit a bigger clevis pin make sure the stop lamp switch has a nut on to take the load of the returning pedal, dont rely on the switch if its plastic one you can just whack it apart as the pedal uses it as a stop. too much free travel on the pushrod.. needs at least 0.5mm it must have 'some' or the reservior wont recuperate you can reduce free travel and raise the pedal a little if you slot the support bracket to baulkhead bolts holes and slide the assy back/forth if you do this .do not raise the pedal so all free play is lost . support the bolts with new washers. just some idea's if you want to mix and match the master cyl design have a browse at car builders solutions or places like merlin motor sport for all varieties of cyls, pushrods & reserviors etc

Dan if electrics bug you , search around for a capiliary type,,, no electrics and reliable repeatable readings eg http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pCode=070.444 and if youre really stuck I have a real long tubed one in the cupboard . as said in the end most l gauges are there to give an 'indication' not exact readings. even with an old stabiliser and the right sender the gauge in the car has worked well enough for 40 years , cool the obsession Pete.

Many area's have their own dedicated logo , often representing the local scene or speciality here's ours Whats your called ???

I didnt get right up to the pilots seat, its a narrow ladder and and reassembles getting in the back of a GT6 by climbing over the handbrake, so these guys were fit and small waisted. !! I did not tackle that they might have had to blow the doors off to get me out Ha ! the pilot and Co got out in a hurry via a explosive canopy the others went out through the underfloor door, if the nose wheel was down you landed as a soprano .

That sounds awful, it amazes me the lack of integrity some drivers have when it comes to roof rack and its contents being constrained by totally inferior fixings incapable of withstanding wind resistance or any sudden manoeuvres a surf board must generate a lot of lift/dive depends how its positioned and even cheap ratchet straps may struggle. you see some crazy loads haring down the motorways ....at speeds ... bits of string and polly bags in the wind ........ worrying when this is the outcome good luck t all involved Pete

who's going to say to the right side of the brake pedal Ha !! sorry not very helpful cant photo as sold the Vit6 , is there not a pair of dimples in the pan to mark the drilling ?? Pete

http://www.xm655.com/ this link leads you to the Maps655 preservation society 655MaPS Wellesbourne Airfield Loxley Lane Wellesbourne WARWICK CV35 9EU England. this is a really good day out , you get full one to one tours around the aircraft in groups of 4 a donation of £10 is requested to help the ongoing work . worth every penny the cockpit visit and tour is not to be missed all contact details are on the website but for ant area's who want a run out and a hi value guided tour around an Icon of flight this is worth considering. we took 22 members and 10 cars the tour takes around 4 hours to complete and a 5 min walk to the cafe does a cracking all day breakfast for the hungry or a snack for the lite bites

my new toy, we sold the Trusty Vitesse6 as getting rather cosy with 4 seniors or the grandkids and time and effort loading them all in the back was getting tiresome so the rorty1600 has moved on and now getting to grips with this Blue Dragon as we call her . done 10k since 1997 when she was restored , Pete

many gearboxes have a scroll seal and not a lip seal , this onlt works when parts rotate, there is a risk if the box is over full that parking down hill can allow the oil to migrate down the input shaft and then spin off onto the linings . not easy to do any cleaning as there it little access to squirt brake cleaner inside, , you may improve things by doing some power slips at 25/30 mph and allow slip and apply full power dont over cook it or disaster prevails,, 2 to 3 heated slips can actually work up an improvement ie make it smell a bit not burst into smoke ...sort of gentle abuse Pete

well done Dan , keep at it, its been a long haul but youre very close to getting the Triumph smile Pete

Simon, there are a number of problems in the coil arna it gets hot,... this is quite normal.. hand hot to quite hot very /.excessively hot unable to touch is not normal if you have a cheap meter check the resistance across the blade terminals there are two coils 1.5 ohms forcars with a ballasted reduced operationg voltage around 6 -8 volts on the ignition feed, 3 ohms for coils fed direct with 12-14 volts run a 1.5 on 12v and it will get very hot. other things are duff condensers, can increase the current used and cause lumpy misfiring . rotor arms with a rivet in the sweep plate are known failures and cause misfire/lumpy running out of the blue . best are red ones. if you leave the ignition switched on for long periods with the points in a closed position you will soon heat up any coil both rotor and condensers can fail without any pre warning check there is no corrosion in the coil sunken HT connector check the condenser is secure check the small braided wire which earths the dizzy top plate to the side screw is not fractured inside the cotton braiding check the polarity of the coil,, if its neg earth at the battery then the wire to the dizzy is on the neg coil terminal and the white ign feed is on the +pos that will do for now Pete

had the full length CJ ramps/bridges for about ten years , certainly made from titanic specs, although makes them heavy to store ,they stand up in the garage if the length is reduced ( they exten to suit all wheel bases ) the height is the limiting factor in all these things wish mine 12 " ramps were 6 " higher. doing wax oil in vari focals at close quarters is a challenge. like a pit if too shallow you cant look up if too deep you cant reach , 4 posts are great but mechanicals are a bit laborious and if inside you need loads of head room or a lifting garage roof !!! the advantage of any ramp with a long lead (mine have a 5 ft lead in) is you get any car up easily no shunting the ramps along or having them shoot out . or spoiler fouling. Pete

Mark Sold her , complete with red leather seats Ha got a 2000 saloon , flat cap and slipper motoring form here on .

the online shop is still all a bit new, there is a search box for shop parts and this thins down the looking , it is in an order but not a shopper's order unfortunate, but needs a lot of time getting what seems simple into a logical flow of parts there' s a shop file at the bottom of the forum which will allow you to print off . Pete

may I suggest you use your Tssc club shop they sell the correct 1144 Pete