Pete Lewis

Hi roger , i also started a tools and tips on october 20th but it didnt take off having run the last ( Lost) forum we had a load of idea's in tips and odds and sods but I cant be doing all that again. its a good place but with no chapters or headings to browse things like this just get lost unless you wade through the whole thing Pete

Here, s hoping you have a 13/60 ?. early gearbox needed a extention to the remote with a cam and top mounted bracket later like the 13.60 may have as you describe a blanking plug under the remote housing its tunnel off to have a look see, if no plug then you need parts and bracket like shown on eg GT6 with overdrive of a seperate dash switch with a bright warning lamp, or buzzer pete

most servo stick on due to the air valve not releasing, and blocked filter or misalignment of the piston rod through the case. having said that ive had tested servos of all types over the years on warranty work and my aftermarket universal one supplied to all did exactly the same as you with the experience, delightful on entering a roundabout for a quick exit...noooo youre stopping. always a 2 -3 second delay despite much strip and examine , upping the air valve spring rate and ensure all is free , it was replaced in an air of unnatural giving up, the replacement was totally different better assist and instant disengage ,,,, why....dont have a clue, Pete

think Bern has a plan with a new club sticker Pete

other things to improve the volt drop is to add a bonded earth from bonnet direct to the battery earth tag, also worth bonding the body tubs and chassis My Vit6 was a 64 and with the original set up gave 10.5 volts at the pointed end . with halogen bulbs and 14v you need sun glasses to dim the road sign reflections the improvement is as said the best thing you can do for peanuts , I agree its a no -brainer this is the cheapest modification you can do easilly with amazing improvement, Pete

Monroes are fine , good standard shocker , up market from the multitude of black looks like a shocker thats always available unless you have deep pockets and access to a chassis dyno its very difficult to DIY settings that cover all ride conditions,many of us leap into the trap of Ooh Argh shiney, adjustable aftermarket bling and upgradeable stuff having spent a fortune many wont say well its actually worse.. ...that spoils the fun, but unless you are seriously into hybrid specs , for serious modifications many add on's are very hard to improve in a shed what manufacturers do with development/.experimental and dynamometer measured specifications, but dont let that spoil your fun Pete

and when all fitted check the toe in of the rear wheels , with the specied 150lbs on each seat getting the rears right is most important if you dont want it to bump steer or bunny hop on pot holes etc. Pete

from a design life point i would expect the more solid version to crack due to heat expansion stresses more so than the more open version but thats a drawn down from retired grey matter !!! Pete other variables could be the diameter of the downpipe ,and its sealing flange when comparing Mk1 1600 throught to big saloon Mk1 2ltr might all be the same but I dont have any to measure Pete

if you want to run up tp sunny Luton id be pleased to run through what youve done, if you have used clourT and balanced what other improvement wold you expect, is there some other undelying problem ?? remember there's no magic with these just stick to basics, when supplied to the line they would have purely been set to a jet height and a thottle stop , and whacked on and they would run , flow settings and more stringent pre set controlls where not about when these were designed . if the basics are correct they do their job, but if you fancy a run a cuppa and a overview , let me know I did manage an emission workshop for 10 years in the 70/80s Pete

have had some tel calls and chats with Tony its solved as kn filter backplate gaskets were not cut to suit the breather ports , all good now Pete

John, think its time you had a medal for this work ...brilliant gets my vote Pete

you should wring the baulk ring onto the cone with a good firm rotational grip, it should grab the cone and lock on there should be a gap between the ring and the dog teeth, the gear dog teeth must have a well defined 55deg angle chamfered on the end of the dog tooth, and a same on the sliding sleeve its these angles that allow baulk and rock over when synchronised, if all rounded, blurred and chimbled look for some replacements make sure you get the correct springs in the sleeves 1/2 is different to 3/4 easy to make too weak or too strong.if mixed up. regards Pete

if a leak and resultant mess is a worry then fit a sender to the Tee and electric gauge Pete

canley sell them Pete

Just another thought on any piped connections to any engine ...engine noise can be transmitted up the pipes or from the tubes inside the gauge if you use a plastic pipe they dont transmit the vibrations if you use metal pipes you need to ut the pipe and add a short lenght of rubber pressure hose, if you get needle vibrations on oil or vacuum you need to add a damper , often made from anshort length of bundy crushed with pliers till it damps to a smooth reading it was common to add a coil in the tube run to lessen noise pete

Firstly they are not therevto worry you into depression, but a good indicator of reducing oil performance and yes general engine bearing conditions, with a good quality 20/50 oilmthe triumph spec is 40 to 60psi at 2000rpm to fit you remove the low pressure switch located on the oil filter side of the engine, add the tee peice and refit the gauge pipework and the switch just test for leaks when done Pete

well done ] Pete

the mintex take a bit of bedding in ( see my earlier post with proceedure) re check your bearing end floats are OK , as this can give too much pad push back ans you loose some pedal. Pete

if you talk to MP about a rebuild of your 4 spd ask about the costs of using a 18mm spigot mainshaft and a modified stem gear to match, the 1/2" Mainshaft spigot is the weak link in the std gearbox as its a carry over from the standard 8/10 and is the most frequent failure in the std 3 rail box , on a vitesse you need mikes modified stem gear , the 18mm spigot mainshaft is DOLLY vintage Pete

They have been fitted by car and truck manufacturers since discs were introduced right through to the present day they feel its needed , and on a bike you dont get the wash spray from the other wheels tyre pumping water across the track of the vehicle pete

They are to protect the disc from water and road dirt, the outer has the wheel nave pete

The data is open to members Pete

If you make one get some silcon sheathed wire and make it long enough to allow the base plate to rotate as the vac unit advances it. its hot enviironment and std wire plastic will go very solid , the silicon stays flexible you can solder to the original ,eyelets if you remove the old welded in wire pete

Think a orig workshopmanual, and do bomework on keeping the liners clamped down for when the heads off. its al pretty straight forward, make sure you drain the block from its own drain tap, plug pete

Good point, another regular is the short hose on the suction pipe out of the tank, old gets hard and sucks air pete