Pete Lewis

if you use M1144 there a topic on here i loaded about specific bedding in proceedures , must be adhered to or they wont work well as expected Pete

come on your club shop sells wheel bearing of quality. if you cant find them just use the shop search box .. Pete

here's a fact sheet https://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/Brake-Fluid-Explained.pdf its down to preference or risk with the lack of lubricity of dot5 you may find the mainstream manufacturers of our components wont accept any warranty with dot5 silicon useage. Pete

generally there is a segment cut out in the shim to give a the piston a leading edge and stop squeal there is the dia to suit the piston and the cut out should face the oncoming direction of rotation so as to give a little relief to the piston contact. if you have plastic pads then they fit anyway to suit the backing shape. onsteel shims add a smear of copa slip on the backing piston face to prevent sticking and helps squeal , pete

depends on the make some the trigger is in quite q different place to the original contacts so timing must be checked you dont need a strobe connect small pea bulb t between the coil negative and earth ignition switched on. HT king lead detached turn engine as unit triggers it will illuminate the bulb , at this exact poit look at the timing marks ( must be 1 or 4 approaching tdc compare pointer and marks on pulley for a staic of around 10 deg ( check your manual for the correct spec ) or look it up in the technical spec download at the bottom of the forum . Pete

with most pdwa you should in my experience bleed both circuits together ,that keeps the pressures equal and the valve wont shuttle if the spool valve pops over you can manually reposition it with the switch removed if youre servicing the brake system then consider new seals in here as well as the other main cylinders. just changing pads is as easy as it looks, clean all areas and a smear of copper slip on back of pads and a touch on the edges that slid in the carrier the squeal shims are fitted with arrow in direction of rotation, if no arrow then the relieved section should face direction of rotation make sure the hub end float is set to 0.002" - 0.008" which is a light nut nip and back off 1 to 2 flats . there are two split pin holes to allow fine adjustment Pete

the tolerance ring is a crinkled tin bush that supposed to hold the withdrawl lever pivot pin in place in the bell housing. these break up and allows the pin to float or even often drop out. you can see the pin in the hsg, if you look down the side fro the top the end of the pivot pin is just visible. see on canley item 27 http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/herald1360gearbox.html&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/herald1360.html&category=gearbox&xsl=diagram.xsl free play at the pedal pad about 1/4" to 1/2" play between push rod and Mcyl about 1/16th all it needs is a 'little' to ensure the cyl piston has returned to is 'fully off' you dont want any lost play in the pedal pivots. make sure the pdeal pivots are not partly siezed as this can stop the full return of thecyl. if that helps a bit ? Pete

one two sorry senior moments .. ive got two slippers , but only one hat Ha ! its only the lower holes that are tapped right through the case to the oily side , the uppers are blind holes pete

here's a place that specialises in these products , not used them but they have been around a long time http://www.littleportboathaven.co.uk/britax%20sunroof.htm Pete

Hi the three springs are an attempt to cure /damp backlash rattle on tick over, on later boxes these holes and springs were deleted. if you leave them out there wont be any catastrophe or any grate gain by fitting them either so not to worry , if you have some fit them if you end up stripping the box make sure you get the important and correct springs for the sliding sleeves as 3/th are different to 1//2nd if you need to the front cover is just a tap in fit in the clutch housing and easy to remove, ,a smear of sealant when refitting make sure the two lower hsg bolts are sealed and have a copper washer or they will leak Pete

the handbrakes are often marginal, see the post about lever extenders, in the main remove the clevis from the backplate lever, fully lock up the adjusters, refit the cables to just a neat fit ,with the wheels on the ground or supported,|(not hanging) then release the adjuster about 3 to 4 clicks make sure the relay lever has cables in the correct holes and the angle is as per the Manual grease the slides . and thats about it. Pete

the 0.70" was introduced i believe with the type 16 calipers , with drums 12s and 14s it was 0.625" fitting this a s an alternative would give a great reduction in pedal load but may give too long travel with the bigger 16 piston displacement agree with Clive the 3/4"is a common cheaper option mainly land rover based aftermarket supplied , never a small chassis spec. another simple way to improve braking is to fit a bigger pedal pad .. makes a cheap and surprising improvement Pete

these have been around on and off for some years, these are very expensive, you also have to take in consideration how much load you are now about doubling whats designed through the orig levers and shoe web. something downstream may decide to buckle . if set correctly the std set up can just produce the correct % all beit only just , I guess someone out there has used them with some hope Pete

just make sure the gasket does fit all round and is not bridging or enchroaching the float operation when assembled there are a whole load of evolutions to the carbs over the years and the float chamber gasket changed in many small but significant ways if you have the brass tag number that should point it t the right gasket, some repair kits supply all you need and there's up to 6 in the pack all look the same but on close up there are wildly different in the corners Pete

if you cant get it to hold still in top gear with brakes on then remove the starter and lock the ring gear with some stout bladed screwdriver or similar soundly in the teeth. 150 is not that high , do you have an impact gun air or battery ??? Pete

as the pivot is aprox half way from each end you dont need 4mm we used one or two simple washers to get the lever 'midships' in its operational angle of travel. if you added 4 mm the post would probably rock out of its bore, its only as deep as the hsg casting. no grease on the pins that attracts dust and grinds things away even more many use a grease on the 'tube ' but again this clogs up with dust . more modern ventures use a plated and dry assembly in here. WSM states use a vinc oxide grease sparingly to the pivots and sleeve. I guess any hi melt temperature grease would be OK used sparingly there's no easy compromise , the design is old hat, the anti spin pin is added to stop the carrier rotating and wearing grooves in the front cover tube but then wear is confined to two small contacts and these end up with a dimple if its left to spin the fork pins wear even more what we all need is someone to make a 3D printed concentric assy to fit the front of the gearbox....Hmmm !! just some ramblings Pete

all small chassis and others have a static throwout so its supposed to be in contact all the time the load appied is from the spring in the slave cylinder, its its noisy its down to lack of load and the noise is skidding , and a light touch to the pedal and it stops then its this making the noise. all down to brg drag and poor diaphragm finger finish. this then wears a groove in the brg. and pedal loads increase as the fingers have to climb out of the formed wear groove. adding some small packing under the pedestal to compensat for the thin bearing just moves the lever to a 50/50 position and not a 75/25 ratio for when the lever is well past its home position there is increases pedal loads . Pete

just to add the 2ltr be it mk1 or mk2 will have the diaphragm clutch so you need a longer throwout carrier than the coil clutch on the 1600 unless its been updated at some time . Pete

if you remover the float chamber base and float manually close the valve does this stem the fuel flow.??? it may be the valves are just and rather unusually stuffed. Pete

have you checked the fuel pump pressure is not something excessive, this is not a normal Stromberg problem so head scratching is in order. rubber slivers are real rouges in the fuel line . and I hate SU and luckily you cant do a straight swap. as all hole centres and even air box is very different. are they new float valves or old ones ?? Pete

all the internals are the same except the mainshaft , so mix and match is easy having rebuilt and been involved with manufacturing them Ive seen more gearboxes than i care to remember ( thats 3 spd to 18spd) I ran out of any acceptable core and with constant spigot failures ended up with good old Mike to make up a mainshaft and stem gear for the Vit6 with the 18mm spigot and this worked fine till I sold her in June . if the up load works here's a good ( may be upside down ) explanation of whats needed to make sycchro work Pete

if GRB209 is only 15mm thick you need to extend the sperical post a little to get the lever in its central see saw position or the leverage becomes 'late' and the pins which press the carrier become below the centre line of the tube and this will pitch th carrier and cause judder in the future . I have fitted washers under the sperical post to gain height which seems a compromise if needed if the tcarrier has worn where the pins load you can remove the anti spin pin and relocate it in an un worn sector. likewise the throwout pins can be replaced by welding in cut down clevis pins. to make them round again. just some thoughts Pete

one of the best pictorial articles is on http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm never mind its for TR the basics are the same if the float has two needle arms its easy to fit the float upside down and the levels are never correct. the flat base of the float is at an angle in the fuel. fuel the contoured side it in air. make sure no slivers of rubber are not flaotion in the supply network or jammed in the back of the float needle, often occurs when refitting hose to bundy. float height problems will overfill and surge out the vent in the outer face there are many gaskets for these , many small changes which leave unsealed joint faces on the float chamber, double check its not an exterior leak . if the jet seals are incorrect then it can leak out around the inner jet tube I would double check the O rings and seal washers are all the right way in. Pete

any Mk 1 will be straight swap , a mk2 is same but all manifolds need replacing, all ancilliaries like needles and carb specs together with dizzy curve/vac will need replacing to suit. 2.5 will strip the gearbox which is already stretched to its limit if the 1600 three rail has crash on first then up it to a 3 rail 4 synchro. with a HC prefix or get an upgrade from Mr Papworth you need to also check the diff output shafts are to the latest diameter, early ones could shear on 4.11 diffs 3.89 > would be better Pete

http://www.jdo1.com/ or http://www.speedycables.com/ the guts are same as a speedo but calibration could take a lot of trial and error to get the 3.55:1 ratio are you sure its the unit and not the dizzy drive or cable ?? club shop sell new , log in for correct price https://shop.tssc.org.uk/search?search_api_views_fulltext=tachometer Pete