Paul H

Hi Pete you are correct , when we blew into the inner tube a leak showed where I had included a visible inline filter in the boot - without blowing I wouldnt have found the air leak . Just need her to fire up now Paul

Hi, having sorted a spark issue I found the petrol wasnt getting through to the carbs and isolated the issue to an air lock in the pipe work under the car - Heres a simple way to remove the air lock without drinking fumes or petrol . A section of inner tube over the fuel intake and blow - this pressurises the tank and forces fuel down to the fuel pump - simples ! I wish I had thought of the idea . My neighbour saw me struggling and put me right Paul

Hi Dave , you mentioned the ignition cable was linked to negative side and no difference. Out of interest are you running points or electronic ignition. Leaving the ignition on for a period of time will heat up the coil Paul

I have a spark at the plugs !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I replaced the capacitor and I now have a spark, with the analysis that the capacitor was earthing the distributor . One test I did was to measure the current from the CB side to earth with Ignition on and points closed - Test should be zero but I got 0.8 volts The suggestion is poor earthing somewhere but not sure where to go on this issue - I'll take a break now and start the Vitesse tomorrow Thanks to all your input and I am definitely wiser and need to write this up in case I need it in the future

Hi Dave - thanks for explanation - I enjoy learning ! because at the end I will be a little wiser maybe knowledgeable enough to help somebody else Paul

Hi , getting closer to solving the issue . In one of the previous posts Dave made a mention of LT , which I hadnt got a clue what it meant so googled it and found how to test the LT circuit One of the tests is to measure the voltage from the CB "-" terminal and earth with ignition on - Meter should read 12 my Vitesse is ZERO , Next test was to disconnect the CB terminal and measure again - Voltmeter should read Zero My Vitesse is above 12 Volts The other noticeable issue is the Coil is getting hot - not sure if this is only with ignition on or permanently - My Aldi temp gauge showed 30 C ( so battery disconnected for the time being ) My reading is that the capacitor - I thought it was a condenser might be duff so will remove and retest Pic shows current setup with CB wire detached Regards Paul

Hi Doug - no power at points , no spark when opened with screwdriver Paul

Update Used a pea bulb between coil neg and earth - turned over no flash Used pea bulb on positive coil & earth , turn on ignition , light goes on , switch again and turn over engine , light stays on ( so switch wiring is ok ) So its the Coil or the HT lead , Tried to get a spark holding 2 different HT leads against retaining nut on rocker - no spark ( is this a good enough earth test ?) I measured ohms with positive with HT outlet - still 10,000 approx I measured ohms with positive with HT lead connected to HT outlet - approx 15,000 ( didnt understand this reading ) I have found another coil see pic - 3.9 across the + & - and 10,000 across HT & + or - ( so looks ok to try ) Dont know the coil's history as came with car as spares Any thoughts ? could I kill a coil by initially adding ignition wire to negative instead of positive ? Thanks in advance Paul

Thanks all - Focusing on the coil is the first thing to do tomorrow , I have another coil if necessary + spare leads and a pea bulb The issue is becoming more clearer and at the end of it I will be a little wiser Regards Paul

Hi - Trying to restart my Vitesse - Petrol at the carbs but no output from Distributor Background My Vitesse last ran on 30th December 2017 - all fine 130 miles on the day Since then she has been off the road with the following electrical work Old fuse box removed - replaced with 2 x 10 blade fuse boxes - 1 box is Ignition fed the other is permanent live . All electrics work including 5 relays . New Starter added - High Torque variety from the Club Dynamator ( Alternator ) dded replacing existing Dynamo Original regulator removed & rewired The Distributor is Accuspark Electronic in a Delco 6 Distributor supplied by Accusparks and worked fine up to 30th December last year - About 1000 miles , no issues Coil is Accuspark Red - 1000 miles no issues I have fuel at the carbs but no spark The Coil reading between the positive and negative is 3.1 Ohms The output is 9600 ( + or - ) connected to HT output ( My understanding is that the Coil is ok with these readings ) The Delco dizzy has red and black wire connectors - Red goes to + Black goes to - The white ignition feed ( checked and its live with ignition on ) goes to + on the coil Being a numpty I initially put the white ignition cable on the negative , tried to start with no spark . I rang Accuspark and they were very helpful and suggested I had blown the Ignition Electronics in the Delco with the reverse wiring - Replacement is £40 but because I have purchased before they are sending me replacement kit for £20 inclusive of postage which I was pleased with To continue I removed the Delco & replaced with a spare dizzy Lucas 25D6 with conventional points gapped at 15thou - Before switching dizzys I moved the fan manually around so the rotor arm pointed to Cylinder 1 The Lucas has only one wire which goes to - on the coil - The White ignition feed goes to + on the coil . Tried to start - still no spark so guess Im doing something fundamentally wrong and maybe the Delco ignition electronics are ok Any help and advice welcomed as dont know what to check next Paul

Hi Pete.thanks for info .will do the same. Did you put a stone grill in the hole in the valance? Paul

Hi the library pic shows positioning of front number plates under the hole cutout in the front valance - The advantage being gained is extra rad ventilation , disadavantage being possible stones damaging the radiator . The current number plate positioning on my Vitesse is half way up the hole cute out . Which positioning is best ? Paul

Hi Ben - thanks for spotting the vent hole in the water pump - pic showing current location below - I will turn one position to make the hole underneath - whats the reasoning for the vent hole location ? Paul

RESULT After testing the radiator with my home made test kit I emailed Anglia Radiators that all was ok . Anglian Radiators then rang me to bring in the radiator for a test which I did today . We live in Bury St Edmunds and the journey to Cambridge is less than an hour . The test took 1 hr as they had to dry the radiator inside before testing . The result was that the radiator is fine and ok to use . They even sprayed it for me and all for no charge . We still dont know what caused all the white marks though top hose spray is a a possibility and keeping an eye on the water pump for leaks - So service does still exist and Angian Radiators in Cambridge gets my vote Paul

Here's a pic of the radiator testing set up - I tried to photo under test conditions in the bath but the water reflection affected the photo quality . The cycle valve is top left by the top hose inlet 3hrs under pressure and no leaks so will refit using another dose of Bars Leaks Thanks for all your input Paul

Hi Clive - is this the putty I need ? Just remembered I did add Barrs leak when I initially filled the rad - looks like it works Paul

Hi Clive - Genius idea - connected inner tube to top and bottom hoses . initially they blew off with pressure so added a small section of inner tube to both outlets and then added the inner tube with 2 cable ties on each outlet. The valve was included in the tube connection drain plug sealed and radiator cap on . No visible air leaks and with a finger over the overflow took the pressure up to about 15 psi , took my finger off and bubbles came out of the overflow - I will leave for a couple of hours and repeat and so far the radiator is fine I use distilled water + 30% antifreeze so where the marks came from i dont know unless they have self sealed Thanks again PS got to find the dog as she disappeared when she heard the bath tap running

Hi radiator is out and on closer examination the left side could well be overspray from the top hose as I cannot find an obvious source of a leak . The right side is a leak as the break in tubing can be seen. To check for leaks I was going to use the same technique for checking leaks in a bicycle tube. Using the bath full of water , blocking off the bottom hose, leaving on the cap and secure a inner tube valve to the top hose . Using a hand pump with gauge check for leaks. I was considering going to 30 lbs psi . Does this sound like a workable plan ? Paul

Hi Andrew , you need to replace the steering bushes . There is one at the top of the coulmn and one at the bottom . Its easier is you remove the steering column - Undo the top bolts and the lower clamp and the steering column will pull away - Though first you need to remove the steering wheel & detach the bullet electrical connectors . You dont say what car you have . I replaced the bushes in my Vitesse Mk2 recently - check this post Paul

Thanks JOhn for info - I will be making contact with Anglia Radiators tomorrow and see what they have to say Paul

Hi thanks for replies - will ring Anglia Radiators tomorrow to discuss - in the meantime need a plan B as confidence is suffering - Were away in 2 weeks in the Vitesse so need to fix asap - Assuming I had to purchase another radiator what spec would you suggest ? The idea of a Honda Civic rad ( cant find anything on Google yet ) sounds good but I cant weld . Paul

Hi Recon radiator - 2yrs old 1500 miles I have a leak about a cupful every 200 miles - couldnt find the leak then when fitting a new heater motor noticed a front core plug weeping - this has now been changed - Then Ive just noticed the pics - are they leaks ? Thanks in advance Paul

Length is correct GCB 11088 = 1.088 metres - this is internal circumference. GCB11125 = 1.125 metres In English the difference is 1.46inches which will make all the difference Thanks all

Thanks Dave for the info and makes sense .Mine is a Mk2 Engine No HC 55521 HE though looks like Ive got the larger pulley - Leacey Bros have them in stock Best regards

Vitesse Mk2 Hi changing Lucas C40L to Accuspark Dynamator and the fan belt is too tight - Fitting the belt with the original Dynamo was very difficult and the only way was to remove one of Dynamo securing bolts and loosen the other and wiggle the belt on and tighten - and it was tight , now using the same method the Dynamator is even tighter to the extent you can ping the belt - As far as I know im using the correct belt see pic . I need to purchase a longer belt and not sure where to start I dont suppose they can be stretched using a press or something similar 1 " would sort the problem Thanks in advance Paul