Paul H

Triumph Vitesse Mk2 Just reassembling the steering column on my Vitesse after changing the steering UJ + fitting earthing strap - On ebay I saw Steering Column Bushes as below I removed the upper column and looked down the tube and saw some "felt" and no bushes - the pic might help The lower section might have a bush though would have to remove the end cap to find out . From memory there was some play in the steering wheel if you moved the wheel up down left right . MOT inspectors didnt comment so assumed the column was within tolerance . Ive checked the Haynes and no mention and WSM does though didnt go into enough detail in how to change Any help , guidance appreciated Paul Update, just checked lower section and there appears to be a column bush in place - the outer is rubber with a metal inner -

Hi Adrian - 6ins in and 2ins up is the centre of my inspection flap - hope this helps Paul

Hi adrian . Ill measure tomorrow and let you know Paul

Thanks Clive. This post has helped me understand the theory of advance curve. Paul

Another vote for Bilthamber products plus POR 15 paints from www.frost.co.uk , expensive but the paint goes a long way Paul

Hi John - if the engine is not "special" then the price is moving up for engines that need restoring Paul

Hi Is this Ebay engine special ? - TRIUMPH 2500 "STAMPED MG" ENGINE SPITFIRE/GT6/VITESSE/KIT CAR. The auction finishes tonight and the current bid is £250 Paul

I had a similar issue and used a grease gun connected to the cylinder - When freed the piston will go off like a gun as the pressure of the gun is very high much more than a compressor - Then its a case of cleaning out the grease Paul

Update - Powerlite Hi Torque Starter Fitted It will be about a week before I can test and report back The copper (ish) piping in the foreground is the extension bleed valve for the Clutch slave cylinder , and the top cable is an earthing wire direct from the battery - Maybe an idea for Twiddle Day 2 Paul

Hi Pete - Dont remember seeing the slotted clutch bracket on my mk2 - was this standard ? Paul

Thanks Roger I plan to use the existing starter solenoid as it was the easiest way to connect - I now know why its the best way to connect - learning all the time Paul

Update : Checked on Youtube for Spacers / Shims & Starter Motors and the starter ring to fly wheel ring gear is ok with 50% to 75% cover so im ok with current set up - The Youtube Video I found helpful is here Paul

Update - Just realised i have a spare engine in the workshop so bolted on the Hi Torque Starter with the 10mm spacer and prior to fitting measured the "throw" of the starter gear . The pic shows the estimated engagement on the starter ring which ive estimated at 70% cover of the starter ring - If it needs to be more I will have to reduce the spacer size - hope ive explained ok Paul

Vitesse Mk2 Hi replacing the intertia starter with a Powerlite Hi Torque Starter purchased from the Club Shop Old starter came out easy enough and there was a main 10mm alloy spacer + 2 shim spacers see pic The Starter that came out was a Bosch M35G - 25092D - - The reason for changing is that the starter always seemed to labour despite replacing the battery and adding a direct earth feed. The Hi Torque will be more efficient in terms of amp consumption and power output ( thats what the bumph said ) My question is do I fit the 2 additional shims or leave them out Thanks in advance Paul

Don’t forget to make an oil inspection flap Paul

No noise file uploaded Paul

Vitesse Mk2 Plastic Gearbox cover My Gearbox cover is white so when adding the black carpet the key tray looked awful so painted the tray black - the paint chipped so it looked even worse. For a bit of fun purchased some "Carbon Wrap look plastic wrap " from China. The results needs a little bit of imagination , firstly the white areas you can see are covered by carpet and the carbon wrapped tray is better than the pic as there is a lot of reflection. As the tray is tucked away in the dash area pretty sure the effect will be ok and the tray functional and no more chips The result can be improved though I would have to remove all the surface imperfections in the key tray so more than happy with the result - You use a hot air gun to push the wrap into shape and it might take a couple of goes to get it right . The wrap will come off if required though will take the underneath paint which is no biggie . Fascinating stuff to work with and the resulting surface is very tough and scratch proof . Not sure where the rest of the wrap can be used though ???? and fully appreciate this approach might not appeal to a classic car purist Paul

It was the metal tubing which caused the slivers , hence vasoline which reduces the risk of slivers Paul

I’ve got the Tshirt with rubber slivers, just when you think you’ve got them all another turns up. Especially true with R9 tubing . Assemble with Vaseline helps. Paul

Hi Richard, thanks for info and will be staying with Classic Oils Heritage. 20/50 . Best deal is 4 x 5 litres Paul

Hi Doug - thanks for endoscope link - will buy one and see how good they are . RE Gearbox cover the chassis rail / floor section seals are ok . The issue is the bulk head section - loads of gaps for hot air to get into the cabin. Taking Pete's advice I covered the front section with 1" foam . This will allow for the 3 x 2" bolts ( 1 at the top and 1 either side ) to be secured to the bulk head then through the foam and plastic gear box cover , Penny washer and wingnuts will then tighten everything up removing any gaps Paul

Vitesse Mk2 with Overdrive Just refitting the plastic gearbox cover and decided to fit 2" bolts to the bulk head which will in turn line up with holes in the plastic gearbox cover , then wing nuts and the seal is made - Ive glued in 1" foam to the bulk head section of the gearbox cover . Working from the engine ( the heater is out ) I was fitting one of the retaining nuts and it dropped - and although Ive found one nut which could be the culprit there is a chance it went into the hole where the clutch release / slave cylinder is. Pretty sure the nut was stainless so no use with a magnet - Ironically Ive done this before when changing the slave cylinder as one of the nuts fell in . Luckily retrieved with magnet stick . If the nut ( m5 size ) has dropped in what are my options ? UPDATE found the culprit stainless nut - so learnt my lesson, the clutch slave area is now covered up with a cloth now. Would still like to know what the outcome would have been if lost in the clutch cover Paul

The Club Shop has Heritage Oil on offer this month at £12.00 + P&P which is a good price if you buy 4 . This equates to approx £15.00 delivered per 5 litres . Is this oil ok as currently using Classic OIls product Paul

Following your post with interest . I noticed you measured the end float - what results did you get and what is an acceptable range Paul

Hi Pete , what was the Dunelm product , ? Paul