Paul H

I agree with Pete and if I could turn the clock back I would have chosen a 3.67 Paul

Hi, I have a mk2 Vitesse with overdrive and 3.89 diff . With od it makes for comfortable cruising , my speedo is probably not accurate though at 3000 revs the speedo reads a tad under 60 mph hope this helps Paul

I fitted a Dynamator to replace the Lucas c40l dynamo on my Vitesse , so far so good. I purchased the accuspark version which is currently priced at £140 ish http://www.accuspark.co.uk/dynamator.htm . if you pursue this route at some stage , you will need an additional cable from the dynamator to the starter solenoid or battery to cope with the extra amperage . I used 42 amp thin wire . untill I can get a smaller pulley for the dynamator the charging starts at approx 1800 revs which so far is proving to be ok Paul

Visited the Burren National Park today http://www.burrennationalpark.ie/ need to check over the Vitesse tomorrow as the roads were terrible , max speed 20mph . Even the bonnet flipped up with the rough road . Mpg pretty good 28.5 over the last 700 miles Regards Paul

Hi pete.light touch on the clutch and canary stops. Cant wait for canary to expire. Which end of the push rod is responsible ? Paul

No joy for oil in kilrush so rang https://www.toppart.com/ennis/ and they had 20/50 multi grade , thanks for the link . We’re currently staying outside Ennis https://www.visitennis.com/ Here is a pic of our Vitesse outside the B and B 650 miles so far on this trip , I’m even getting used to the canary ? Regards Paul

Thanks richard . At our B n B in.killimer just outside kilrush mentioned to the landlady re oil and she told me to.go and see Pat over in the pub . Pat collects classics and i now have 3 places to try in kilrush plus a map.written on a serviette. Our plan is kilrush and then on to Ennis if no joy in kilrush . Thanks for the links Paul

Went to Kilkee http://www.kilkee.ie/ today and took the cliff pathway . Better than Cliffs of Moher in our opinion as Moher had thousands of tourists and queuing to get on a footpath is not our scene were either going to Ennis or using the Shannon ferry to Tabart tomorrow once the oil situation is sorted Paul

Thanks for all inputs , I now have a better idea what the grades mean. We have found a Motor factors in Kilrush which will hopefully have some 20 50 so will pay them a visit tomorrow , if not Ennis is not to far away . One guy said we could use semi synthetic but maybe he just wanted to make a sale? is he correct ? thanks again Paul

Hi were staying in kilrush tonight

Thanx .heaviest grade ? Saw 10 40 .which is heaviest

Triumph Vitesse mk2 We’ve made it to Ireland in the Vitesse starting from Bury St Edmunds , through to Holyhead and currently in Doolin https://www.doolin.ie/ we’re heading south along the Atlantic Way then next Friday meeting up for the Gordon Bennet rally https://www.gordonbennettclassic.ie/ The car is behaving well apart from not being able to get any gears after a short stop. It was very hot and think heat might have played some part. The problem was the insulation behind the carpet restricting clutch movement . I removed the insulation and modified the carpet ie removed the section and clutch travel is improved though when we get back need to improve clutch throw plus I’ve got the annoying canary singing away. I tried the spring trick which worked for the first 300 miles then the canary sprang back to life , dipping the clutch kills the singing. The only issue I have is oil consumption which is higher than I had planned for as only packed 1 litre 20/50 . I’ve checked at each fuel station and no 20/50 which is to be expected. Hopefully will find a Motor factors tomorrow and sort. If I can’t is there an equivalent I can use . The Vitesse is using about 1 litre per 500 miles . Oil pressure is fine 75 on startup and 45 to 50 psi at 50mph . We have overdrive and rev counter rarely going above 3000 so she is being treated gently , plus the roads over here mean average speeds have dropped to low 30’s. Internet is more difficult here so hopefully will pick up some suggestions re oil later today Thanks to everybody who has helped us get this far , and without this forum my Vitesse would still be in the garage regards Paul

Pretty sure the Alternator issue is fixed Taking on Dave's theory of wrong size pulley I ran the engine with Volt Meter attached - Start was 12.5 V - Old battery 1,000 revs no change - 2000 revs and Alternator (Dynamator) kicked in rising to 13.4 and climbing . Were away next week so will put back the Regulator so we can switch back to dynamo if necessary - The 3 main large spades are connected to a copper shunt & put spades back on WL & F cables + male spade connector and spade on earth . Going on a test run tomorrow so will be able to clarify whether the current set up is going to work Thanks again to all inputs and glad the solution was simple - Im certainly wiser !! Paul

Hi Clive - Turning the key the ignition light comes on as it should with the correct wiring setup ie WL & F connected and goes out with engine going though no output from Alternator Adding an earth to the WL & F connection the ignition light goes on - Do I now startup and see if there is output from the Alternator ? Paul Numpty Question - Doing a continuity test from the ignition switch (White cable ) to the F connection . Question will I get continuity with a Multi Meter as the cable goes through the ignition light ?

Hi Rob , the connections to the Dynamator are correct as they are a direct swop from the Dynamo , so 2 cables and the spades are different sizes so only go on one way. Thanks for info I will start checking again tomorrow Regards Paul

Hi Rob , thanks for your info - The wiring diagram show the WL connected to the Ignition Warning Light (White ) which then goes to Ignition Switch - When checking there is no continuity between WL & the Ignition switch , so there must be break somewhere ?? - If I put a temp + feed onto Alternator the Alternator works . Currently with ignition on , no power goes to Alternator and in turn no output The Dynamator has 2 posts - A 11mm spade ( I think ) which is the output feed and a straight swop with the dynamo output . I have added a 42amp cable to allow for the extra amps so the cable is now rated at 42 + 23 amps . The only other post is on the top and again switched direct from the dynamo ( other than extending the cable - this being the Brown Green ( F) and there is no break in the this section . My simple logic ( without understanding the complexities of Alternators ) was to add a separate feed from the ignition side of the new fuse box Paul

Update : Ive rejoined the cables as they should have been connected 2 thin wires ( Warning Light & Field) 4 wires D & B ( thick Brown / Yellow & 3 thick Brown cables .) On tick-over there is no output from the Alternator as before as I have no continuity from Ignition (WL & F) - The ignition light comes on as it should then goes out acting normally Current read is 12.2 Volts (this is an old battery whilst charging the depleted one ) Is it ok to add a new cable connecting to thin Brown / Yellow WL ) and connect to a spare fused outlet on the Ignition powered fuse box ? NB I now have 2 fuse boxes each with 10 slots - The first fuse box is controlled by the ignition, The second fuse box is direct wired see pic All other functions work as they should , lights ( dipped , side, main ) , indicators , wipers , washers, overdrive, horns , reversing , rear fog, front spots , heater blower , starter , heated seats, 12v socket Paul

HI Clive - Yes ignition came on with incorrect set up ie D&F connected Paul

Hi Andrew I had similar issues with replacement pump and pretty sure it was the cam lever not lining up correctly - I ditched the replacement and purchased a refurb kit from Canleys . Heres a link Its easy to do though the valves can prove more difficult to change - Most leave the original vales in place if they are still ok and function Hope this helps Paul

HI all just fitting a Stealth Dynamator replacing current Lucas Dynamo C40L Because the regulator is behind the dash it was easier to remove completely. The connections made are as in the following pic No 4 goes to the Dynamator ignition feed & 3 goes to ignition light then on to Ignition switch When I tested the Dynamator there was no output as measured with Multimeter across battery terminals . I then put a direct + feed from battery to Dynamator , then tested and 14 plus volts I checked continuity from 4 ( F) Brown Green to the Junction under the dash and continuity confirmed - I checked continuity from 3 (WL) ( thin Brown Yellow ) to ignition switch and NO CONTINUITY - so this is the problem I tested the thick Brown Yellow (2 ) or D on the regulator and got continuity to the ignition so my logic was Ive switched the wrong cables So I connected 2 & 4 (D & F on the regulator) and 3 5 & 6 ( WL & B on the regulator ) Everything worked perfectly , started fine and Dynamator was giving output - Voltmeter was showing 14 volts Tried to start the Vitesse this morning and flat battery so it looks like I was correct in the first place and there is a problem with cable 3 (WL on the regulator , thin Green Yellow) . Currently battery is disconnected and accepting charge from my Ctek charger and hopefully should be able to recover Not sure how to proceed now and any help appreciated Paul

The Boot edge on my Vitesse is too close to the rear wing , is this caused by body tub spread ? Paul

Hi Adrian , re your body tub spreader setup, is the body attached to the chassis ? Any chance of a more detailed pic of how the brackets fit the B post . Pity you are not in the UK as I’m sure there would be a rental market for a bit of kit like that . Lastly what is the rating of the ram ? Paul

Hi Pete & Rob - Yes you were correct the dizzy was 180 degrees out Yesterday I didnt have time to play so checked some old photos of the engine bay in my Vitesse and the HT cable layout showed a different (correct ) layout . This morning removed plug No1 , removed dizzy cap and rotated the engine fan until No 1 was in upstroke - With a torch I was able to see the piston top so I was able to adjust to 10 before TDC . I then moved Dizzy 180 degrees so the points were open . Then moved the HT leads to the correct order 153624 going counter clockwise . Tightened the Dizzy and she fired 1st go - Many many thanks Now going to finalise timing with a strobe Best regards Paul

Thanks Pete. Will check Paul

Hi all - I really hoped I could sort this myself but appears not . My Vitesse Mk 2 wont start after a layup of 4 months . The work ive done that could affect the issue . Dynamator (Alternator) replaced the original Dynamo - When I refitted I put the ignition (white ) cable on the negative side of the coil and according to Accuspark this has blown the electronic ignition - replacement Ignition on the way . Whilst waiting for replacement bits I have removed the Delco D6 ( accuspark ) dizzy and replaced with original Lucas 22 with traditional new points set at 15 thou and firing order 153624. ( The Ht leads on the dizzy cap go anti clockwise ie 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4. ) By connecting a bulb from the negative side of the coil & earth and turning over with the key the bulb goes on and off . I have a spark on each of the plugs ( checked with the red plastic extensions which shows the spark) The NGK plugs have been cleaned and gapped at 25 thou and havent been changed and appear in good condition ( about 1,000 miles) I have fuel and by removing the pipe next to to the twin Stroms petrol is pumping out at a healthy rate - removing the top 4 nuts on each of the carbs everything is wet with petrol . The pistons are not jammed and raise manually under a degree of pressure and fall naturally. I have replaced the original bendix with a high torque starter from the club and the difference and improvement is very noticeable . Initial timing was using the bulb system waiting for the bulb to light up at cylinder 1 ( front of engine ) . Then I advanced ( moving dizzy anti clockwise ) the dizzy a touch and tightened up . I did try adding a squirt of carb start into the stroms to no effect - left the engine to "dry out " with no effect . The only response from the engine is an occasional "fart " accompanied by a haze from the Stroms ( the filters are off ) Again any help appreciated Paul