Paul H

Got the Tshirt on this one . I think I used a lot of WD40 and pushed out the sleeve with a socket using the bench vice . Balancing the spring was a little difficult. Paul

Beat me to it ? just ordered 2 , you can purchase online with free delivery Paul

Last year I purchased a set of leather MGF seats ( 2001) for my Vitesse Saloon, completed the modifications and they work well. The missus is best pleased as the seats are very comfortable making longer journeys easier. Im now upgrading the electrics including adding modern fuse boxes and this makes accessories easier and safer to include, so adding heated seat pads to the MGF seats . Waeco heated seats cost about £90 Britpart heated seats cost about £60 Ebay copy of Britpart ( doesnt have the posh box but 99% certain the contents are the same ) £30 I chose the Britpart because of cost as only found the non branded version recently , but wouldnt hesitate if purchasing again There is an excellent MGF forum which gives details how to fit the Waeco Heated Pads here . All the heated seats are similar though Waeco are handed so Ive added a few photos if using Britpart Its best to read in detail the MGF forum advice first then fill in with my photos etc below if using the Britpart version / unbranded LINK Dismantling the seats involves using a Torx 50 socket and you probably wont have one this big so simply use a reversed screwdriver attachment. The pics explain . A bit unconventional but worked for me With the Torx bolts removed the seat is in 2 parts . The back is easy and fitting the pad is a doddle though you will need the trim the heated panel by approx 140 mm so follow the MGF forum advice The Pads can be trimmed by up to 150mm The seat squab is a different story and working on a bench will make life easier - removal of the leather top is covered in detail by the MGF Forum The power cable come out of the back of the seat and the picture shows the heat pad in place the removable securing tape removed up to the blue ink line so secured to the foam. The 6 punched holes are where Hog ties were situated . The hog ties being replaced with cable ties . The pads can have sections removed . the max size hole being 200 mm wide and 50 mm deep providing the side wires are not cut The seat show has all the cable ties in place to fix to the leather cover . Working from the back of the seat secure the cable ties up to the first cross section The above pic show the first 3 fixings which go across the seat completed . The yellow plastic trim sits in a foam recess . Now its a case of securing all the remaining ties and refitting the top leather cover. This takes some manual persuasion though the cover will go back looking this this . Note the cable exit is by the prop tunnel Now refit the Torx bolts and you have the seats ready to go back Please excuse the additional furniture , its far too cold to work in the garage its currently minus 1 !!! The next pic show the exit cables - 1 per pad I then tested the seats by a temp fitting of the cabling - The seat switch covers both seats, pushing right turn the drivers seat on to high heat , pushing right again gives low heat, pushing again switches off the right seat. Pushing the left hand side operates the passenger seat - I like the idea of having 1 switch as easier to place and currently the switch location is a modified rectangular switch bracket which will be fitted in a central location under the dash - The appearance isnt classic though pleased with the look - The switch illuminates red , then orange for the 2 power levels - There is also a night light which i havent tried yet I tested the seats in a cold conservatory about 6 C and with my Aldi heat gun recorded 23 c and pretty sure there was more heat to come - Earlier in the week when the wood burner in the conservatory was on and temps of 18 C the first seat went up to 34C The Britpart quoted output is 44 watts on low and 90 watts on high An inline 15 amps fuse is fitted and the control box has a relay included + temp guard to prevent overheating Now I need to refit the seats and permanently wire them in Hope this helps Paul

Hi Tom, will do . To catch up with the purchase of the Nissan Micra Blower Motor , check this Link Paul

Thanks Richard Paul

Hi last year purchased a second hand Nissan Heater Blower Motor K2 to replace the existing motor. Now looking to fit as part of an electrical upgrade for my Vitesse . The fuse required is 15 amps . Should I fit a relay to run the blower ? There is an excellent write up by Darren Groves Article Paul

Hi Pete , I’ve already planned for a MOT switch ? Paul

Thanks for the advice on main and dip for all 4 lights , makes sense especially as I have the H4 bulbs , the connectors need modding on the inners to allow for the dip cable and then running another cable from the inners to the dip relay. I did have trouble fitting the crystal units to the inners until I remembered a comment you made about the lugs not lining up. Thanks again Paul

Hi Richard , my inners are currently sealed beam , and the headlamp wiring is 3 tab as outer . Is this wiring correct ? Paul

Hi upgrading the electrics on my Vitesse MK2. Added relays for lights, horn, spots now fitting crystal headlamps. The 4 crystal lamp units came with H4 bulbs . I will probably upgrade to branded bulbs like Osram in due course. The outer bulbs are 3 tab and fitting H4. The inners are main beam and 2 tab and I need to purchase H7 Question . Can I use the supplied H4 bulbs for the inner headlamps ? Thanks in advance Paul NB found an H4 Osram Nightbreaker in the garage which was a spare for my Land Cruiser so will be able to carry out a test to compare with non branded bulbs

Check out the pic and see what happens when you run a diff with no oil . When I purchased my Vitesse Mk 2 in Feb 2016 it was an mot failure - headlights & brakes were the issue . I was told the gearbox needed to be replaced due to layshaft issues but no mention that they had forgotten to add oil to the diff. I trailered the Vitesse home and went for a test drive and only got 300 yrds when there was a bang and the diff disintegrated . I didnt have enough experience / confidence to tackle the job myself so Manvers Triumph ( no longer in business ) carried out building a new diff . They said they found engine blue suggesting the diff had been rebuilt and that the remains of the crown wheel & pinion were razor sharp . With the experience picked up over the last 2 years from this invaluable forum I would have had a go at tackling the job myself The seller had used the Vitesse in this condition for about 50 miles Mots etc and on handover said the car was making unusual noises and he thought it was the gearbox on its last legs. A bit of a baptism of fire and I wondered if I had purchased a money pit . 2 years on a lot of the mechanics have been changed though I still smile when I see her in the garage Paul

Agree "Parts Wanted" is a good idea plus another vote for spitfire graveyard well worth a call , recently purchased a steering UJ for my Vitesse and I wasnt sure the best way to fit and they sent full instructions Paul

Hi Iain, understand Angie is sending you fitting instructions - The instructions say the Top bracket slides in between the chassis and the rear body and there is a cutout in the top bracket which enables the top bracket to slide around the chassis bolt either side of the diff ( accessible from the boot ) . There is also a rubber mounting on this bolt which goes between the chassis and rear body - This acts as a cushion . Its important that the Top bracket goes UNDER the rubber gasket . If you fit above the rubber gasket the fitting holes wont line up . Because I had great difficulty in removing the chassis bolts the top bracket needed some persuasion to fit and I used a 12" steel rule with a cut out UNDER the rubber gasket . Then forced in the top bracket under the steel rule . This meant the rubber gasket was above the bracket and the securing bolts went in ok . Finally before you start ensure the Top Brackets are handed ie there is a left and a right bracket - I was originally supplied with 2 the same and of course fitted the wrong one first . The brackets are a nightmare to remove if persuasion was used to insert . The stepped securing bolts only go in one way and thats inserting the bolts from the front of the car Hope this helps Paul

The supplied bracket fits between the chassis and the body . The bolts which hold the body to the chassis need to be loosened to enable the top bracket to be knocked in . The bolt loosening depends on how rusty the bolts are . You will need to loosen the bolts either side of the diff , the outriggers and the bolts holding the side rail. Once loose the body needs to be jacked up to allow the top bracket to be inserted. Im out tomorrow morning though will copy and post the instructions later in the day. I will also put up a pic of the tool I made to assist the top bracket fitting. Paul

Hi , I’ve completed adding top brackets and gaz shocks to my Vitesse mk 2. I’ll check if I’ve still got the TSSC instructions and hopefully post tomorrow. First thing are the spring hangers handed ie you have a left and a right im assuming you have lever arm shockers at the moment Paul

Hi started to tidy up the wiring in front of the radiator ie head lamp, spots , horn, replacing cables as necessary . The bullet connectors are the weak link and what’s the best way to proceed. I could renew the bullet connectors , replace the bullets with insulated spade connectors , remove bullets and splice and solder and heat shrink Any thoughts and advice Paul

Canleys and the Club dont take paypal as far as im aware Paul

Thanx Pete. Ill try from underneath. Need access as bottom bolt was finger tight and top bolt is missing . How long its been in this state i dont know as its the only mechanical i havent checked since ive had the vitesse. Relied on the mot checks which were fine . Mot guys were also very thorough. Once out ill check for play Paul .

What’s the best way to access the Steering Unit Coupling on my Vitesse . I’m looking to add an earthing strap so my horn will start working. I can access the lower bolt close to the rack but that’s all . Do I need to remove the steering column to get access. Thanks in advance Paul

Out of interest how much do companies like Distributor Doctor charge for refurbing Lucas / Delco didtributors Paul

Hi Stewart if you do go down the Accuspark route dont buy their spark plugs - been there got the T shirt Paul

I bought a new accuspark dizzy , so far it works fine . Couldn’t believe the price much cheaper than other versions . mk2 Vitesse Paul

I have similar issues especially when low temps. I use carb spray direct into filter intake . A quick spray in each intake . Paul

Is it possible to convert a 3.89 diff to a 3.63 ? Paul

Thanks for the sprung pencil info, all makes sense now - I made one up and pretty sure it will be ok - Once the pencil is in place, and spring pressure set I will glue the tube into the boss . Thanks for all your help. Paul