Paul H

Thanks for all the info - my plan is as follows 1) Replace Dynamator in the short term with original working dynamo C40L as I want to use my Vitesse - The dynamo is ok + RB340 regulator is still in place + all the connecting wires still have original spades. The main 3 cables being connected by a home made copper shunt - foresight or what !!!!! The remaining 2 wires are connected by using spades , lastly the earth is taped up so refitting shouldnt take too long My logic being that assuming the dynamo works, the cabling is ok and confirmation the Dynamator is at fault 2) Contact Accuspark re Dynamator which is out of warranty as purchased at Stoneleigh last year and only just fitted - I will advise how this conversation goes 3) If Accuspark solution doesnt pan out I will replace with standard Alternator + source relevant brackets Thanks again Paul

A bargain , sold for £56, what is the SAH rocker box worth Paul

Purchased 2 Wanners from Fleabay . Just the job Paul

Hi Paul, is the bracket I need https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-TR2-TR3-TR4-DYNAMO-GENERATOR-BRACKET-NEW-MORGAN-4-58912-/232453446802 Paul

Thanks Pete , I’ll contact accuspark tomorrow and check my options. I can revert to dynamo and probably will do in the short term . Assuming I ditch the accuspark and replace with an alternator what amps is best , the accuspark is 45 amps . Is there a bracket which will fit the alternator my memory says Triumph 2000 ? Paul

Hi recently changed from a Lucas C40L Dynamo to a Dynamator Initially I had issues which are documented here and it turned out the Dynamator only started charging at close to 1800 revs because the pulley needs to be smaller ( still needs to be done ) Took the car for a run today and noticed the voltmeter is reading under 12v and even at 3200 revs no change - Prior to this the voltmeter was reading 13.5v ish at these revs and everything has been fine for our recent 1400 mile Irish trip Checking the battery with a multimeter there is no increase in voltage when raising the revs to 2000 How can I check if the alternator is generating any volts - My logic was to remove the positive output connector and replace with the positive on the multimeter with the negative going to earth - Is this logic correct or is there a correct way to test output Thanks in advance Paul

Another vote for Gaz purchased from the club shop as part of suspension conversion for my.mk2 vitesse Paul

My Vitesse Mk2 has Air Conditioning - Check out the Handbook page 28 I found the WARNING notice very interesting though think my Vitesse might be an exception !!!! Paul

Apart from earthing straps on my Vitesse Mk2 Ive added an additional earth lead direct from negative side of the battery to the starter - I take it this is ok ? Paul

Hi Paul , following your comment I checked my spare with open ended nuts suitable for steel wheel and the studs fits fine - check out the pic . I purchased my Freelander CLP9037L studs ( marked OEM ) from BSB Autoparts , they have an Ebay Store Paul

The freelander studs have the correct chamfer .check out my pic Paul

Hi I have a puller so this will be easier than drilling a 19 my hole in the backplate. I did renew bearings, doughnuts, ujs last year and setting up preload / endfloat was not easy though working fine . I thought removing the hub meant I had to preset again but that isn’t the case as the bearings are not being changed . Thanks for input Paul

Will do. Pretty sure i used a puller last time. Paul

Thanks Pete - I will try this tomorrow as still have the other rear to do Paul

My car has alloys and this reduces the amount of thread available for the wheel nut. In my case each nut is held on by approx 6 threads and im not comfortable with this . I read with with interest Darren Groves write up on upgrading the studs to Freelander studs. I started with the front wheels and pretty much straight forward . Remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper and suspend using a cable tie . Undo the castellated nut and remove the hub assembly - Remove the existing studs by adding a wheel nut and a clout with a lump hammer - They come out easy enough - Clean up the serrated hole and offer up the new nut which is from a Freelander part No CLP9037L - cost for 4 wheels approx £35 deld ( Ebay ) Pic shows existing stud, replacement Freelander stud and new captivated wheel nut suitable for Alloys ( £15.00 ish Ebay ) the overall length being the important issue . Fitting the new Freelander stud is straightforward , tap in to start and using a large oversize nut tighten the wheel nut drawing in the stud till flush . Using an impact wrench will make the job easier once the pull is started Refit the calipers and castellated nut Use this opportunity to regrease the front hubs and set the free play . The rears are more difficult as there is no space to add the new Bolts , Initially knock out the existing studs , they will come out easy enough . If you have a Churchill equivalent hub remover you can remove the hub section - I do have one though didnt want to upset anything so used Darren's suggestion of drilling the back plate and use the 19mm hole offering in the Freelander studs - This was harder than I thought . You will need a Step drill and I already had one from Toolstation excellent bit of kit - I suggest you remove the Wheel tab first as this will get in the way of the drill + remove the brake shoes. Drill the hole as per the following pic + you will need an extension to get the clearance - It will take some time as there isnt much access room . A round file will help in the final stages - Dont be tempted to force the stud through the hole and hub as you will damage the thread - got the T shirt - When you are close to having the correct hole in the back plate screw in the stud by hand and then you can use pliers to continue twisting and your stud will go through . Once in place add oversize nut and washer and tighten with an open ended wheel nut to force the stud into the hub - Once its started you can use an impact wrench to speed up the process - Once completed cover the access hole with a suitable grommet NB you will need a set of open end nuts suitable for steel wheels if that is your spare That's it and if I ever travel around the country roads of County Clare in Ireland again I will feel a lot safer than with the old studs which are not suitable IMO for alloy wheels Hope this helps Paul

Hi Pete , Freelander Studs Part no CLP9073L arrived today together with Captive Nuts M12 - 1.5mm ( Chrysler Challenger ) and look like they will fit - The chamfer is fine and they fit flush to the front hub . With a trial fit up to the alloy wheel the Captive Nut doesnt bottom out ( I have also purchased open end nuts suitable for steel wheels for the spare ) . I am following the write up by Darren Groves . Once Ive proved and fitted all 4 wheels I will put up details in a new post for future reference Check out the pic and there is a big difference with Stud size , about 40% longer & 7/16" compare to 3/8" diameter Rather than disturb the rear hub I will be following Darren's suggestion of drilling the back plate to allow stud access then blanking off with a grommet Paul

Hi stripping down the front hubs to upgrade the wheel stubs from 3/16 to Freelander M12 studs - Having alloys there is not much thread ( 6 turns ) on the wheel nuts and not comfortable with that . Anyway heres a pic of the stub axle - Is this just in manufacturing and ok - The bearings dont touch this area so assuming the stub axle is ok - The other side has no visible defects Any input welcomed Paul

My experience with eBay dash lights were that they were effective and a fraction of the price of the shop’s version though were very fragile and easily broken . The led will easily part with the body of the lamp. This isn’t helped as the led bulbs are larger than original and can be broken when fitted. I’ve gone back to standard bulbs for the time being Paul

They look short - Ive got the same as Pete has shown on my MK2 Vitesse - and yes they were a pig to fit Paul

This is the cheat sheet I take with me ( based on problems I had with initial set up Im sure its not perfect and totally comprehensive - Ill know when I have to use it !!! Paul

Welcome to the forum Paul

Well spotted Havent got round to reversing them yet Paul

One more pic

I fitted new trunnions only to find they were leaking within 6 months , so I couldn’t repair with epoxy. I repaired by filling in with solder . To get the necessary heat you will need a gas blow lamp Paul

Starter solenoid in the original position on my Mk2 Vitesse Hope this helps Paul