Paul H

What a neat solution ! can you advise the Ebay links Paul

Update : just when I thought I had sorted any potential over heating issues on my Vitesse Mk2 I discovered a leaking core plug - so add this to the list when checking your water system - The Vitesse MK 2 has 8 - I added a new post on replacing the core plug so it will be indexed Paul

Vitesse Mk 2 The plastic gearbox cover on my Vitesse wasnt sealed properly with hot air getting in so removed to add a further gasket to the bulkhead . I noticed a the core plug was a little dirty and rusty so poked with a screwdriver - It went straight through the core plug - This explains why I was loosing small amounts of coolant - only 1/2 a tea cup every 100 miles so I thought no big deal - Good job I found it . I googled core plug removal , the American's call them frost plugs - This YouTube video was the best I found and the process worked for me - Simply with an old screwdriver take out as much of the centre as possible . When the centre is almost removed using pliers twist out the centre . Then use Plus Gas on the core remainder . Finally tap the outer core in one corner and in the end the remaining ring will pivot out just like the video said it would - The camera work is Cra*p on the video but the results speak for themselves. I had spare core plugs as already changed the one by the dynamo . Better check the rest now - there are 8 plugs on the Vitesse Mk 2 engine Paul

Update : thanks for all input - much appreciated and my knowledge base increased . Adding an electrical fan isnt an option as prefer to have a mechanical fan. I will be replacing the rubber mounting washers with metal ones to dissipate heat . Paul

Hi Doug, thanks for input, I thought adding a fan impeded air flow to the radiator Paul

Thanks for the advice Colin as hadnt considered petrol evaporation . Plus I didnt appreciate there were still big traffic jams in bygone days !!!! check this Facebook Link . Im getting more confidence in my Vitesse Paul

Triumph Vitesse Mk2 Planning to venture further afield this year with the potential of traffic jams as some motorway travel is expected . Ive completed all the necessary overhaul ie Replacement Radiator, Heater Matrix, Hoses, stainless pipe connecting to heater, water pump, thermostat , heater control , standard box filter with extension tubing through to front grille. So far not had an issue with overheating and temp reading is approx 82 - 92 on the dial . My question is assuming i am in a slow moving traffic jam do I keep the engine running , switch off ? My thoughts were that in a long tail back I could open the heater control as this would provide temporary water cooling and then with the blower ( now a Nisan Micra motor ) draw the heat from the matrix - Is this practical or a waste of time . Any input welcomed Paul

Hi Pete. I have a spare mk2 vitesse engine in my workshop which i plan to rebuild at some time. Should i remove the plugs and fill with oil ? Paul

Hi Richard., the out in all weather is currently £82 , the £116 is a mk2 Vitesse and looked after, no carbs dizzy Paul

I thought the £116 was a fair price , the other engine is currently £82 auction ending this evening . Prices are moving 10 % plus each year now so placing an ad with TSSC is the way to go . That’s how I found my spare engine . 2 Vitesse / Herald doors went for £200 on eBay today and they needed work Paul

Thanks Pete , I found a spare heater switch and that didnt work either so gave it the carb cleaner treatment and its now working though will add a squirt of 3 in 1 Paul

Refitting the Nisan heater motor to my Vitesse Mk2 - This included adding a relay. Easiest way was to rewire and removed the switch as it was intermittent with the previous Smith's fan . I found the reason when checking the switch as it was very lazy . When using the switch there was a delayed click and using a test bulb the switch didnt work 80% of the time - Checked on Fleabay and they were expensive £12 plus for a new one . The Switch is sealed so no way of repairing so sprayed it with Carb Cleaner . Hey Presto the switch movement is now 100 % positive with no delayed click and the switch now works - Hopefully it will last another 50 years . Another use for Carb Cleaner Paul

My opinion for what its worth is that that Club Shop E commerce package is outdated and clunky and does the club no favours at all - Assuming the Club wanted an online presence the best approach would be to ditch and start again using a cloud based package like Shopify . These products are rented so no major setting up costs apart from time and are designed to be operated by personnel without programming experience . I have no links to Shopify though I do have do have the T shirt Paul

Hi I had same issues when I replaced shoes on my Vitesse , and nearside was getting hot, though all appeared ok with adjustment . Could be when the wheel is lowered the system tightens up . All I did was to unwind the adjuster a few more clicks and this sorted the heat issue . Paul

Hi Colin , used a lever bar on the crank and no discernable movement . Also used the bar on the pulley bolts to rotate the crank - so far so good Paul

Hi Aidan. I purchased the engine from a dealer close to Royston. I’ll dig out his details and pm them. The engine appears to be been stored inside, and the dealer said there was “ minimal end float “ . Because I didn’t know what that meant I took his word for it !!!! How do you test for end float ? The carbs are what I really wanted and they are correct for the Mk 2 Vitesse and appear to be in good condition , no spindle wear and hopefully not too expensive to refurbish . The Lucas dizzy appears to be ok and will refurbish at some time . I paid £150 ex Royston . The dealer loaded the engine onto my trailer with a forklift , it’s very heavy ie over 200kgs . Hope this helps. Paul

Hi following the post with interest . My interest is the same as Aidan, I have a Vitesse mk2 and recently purchased a spare mk2 engine with carbs and dizzy . Long term plan is to refurb though which engine parts would you balance . My plan is to replace like for like so no competition work. Reliability and efficiency is what I’m looking for Paul

Vitesse MK2 Another bulkhead hole sealed up . Just repaired the bulkhead seal for the steering column - repaired with a section of inner tube - Job done ! The pic shows the original worn rubber gasket ( centre ). The repair gasket on the left cut from an old inner tube The assembled bulkhead gasket ready to be screwed back in Paul

Hi Doug check out the FAQ on Bilthamber site ie Can electrox be used over hydrate 80? No, as this product must contact bare steel, and hydrate 80 cures as a primer, covering the bare steel. Use epoxy mastic over hydrate 80. You can use Electrolux Zinc over Deox - C and Deox - Gel Paul

Hi Doug , agree for max protection go the Bilthamber route . My understanding is that wIth Hydrate 80 it’s best to use their Epoxy mastic rather than Electrolux Zinc coating Paul

Hi , probably not useful for some though I find Sweet Project Cars a good source of information . Its very American and that can be a tad over powering at times though good content & tips and some "outside the box" ideas Paul

Update Decided to remove the Regulator as its under the dash and not visible + replacing the Millboard so wont need to cut a hole for the regulator . Joining the wires was helped by securing the tinned cable ends with a 5mm section of 15mm copper pipe with had been cut and wrapped round the wires - Using a brulee burner , heating the pipe and filling in with solder . Im making a new under dash millboard with this product from screwfix - Ive got some left over from a roofing job and have found its very useful for other applications - Best way of trimming the board is with a jig saw though strong scissors also work for short sections - Thanks again for all the input - appreciated Paul

Hi Darren , thanks for advice and spires will be the way forward Paul

Thanks all for your input and now added a corrected version for future reference ( Thanks Pete ) I was going to run an additional 42 amp cable (already purchased ) from the Alternator ( its a 45 amp Alternator ) direct to the battery though will now add to the Solenoid . Still havent made the decision whether to remove the internals of the regulator or connect by splicing Paul

Triumph Vitesse MK2 Hi upgrading to an alternator and removing the existing regulator Before I make the dreaded cuts - is the pic below correct procedure for splicing wires on the regulator RB340 . I was going to cut off the terminals and splice / solder and heat shrink - Any other methods ? I would like to retain the original spades but couldnt find a solution . I had a great idea of using an old Lucas fuse box until I realised 3 of the spade connectors were 8mm and too large Paul