Colin Lindsay

For the front, maybe, but they don't have one for the rear as yet. I know people complain about the brass trunnion setup but yet many soldier on for years with no bother, just regular maintenance. The only one i've seen broken - and i've never had that myself - was due to grease being used, and a collision off a kerb, which revealed the use of unsuitable grease once dismantled. Nothing against trunnionless, everyone who has tried it swears by it (although I've heard that some of those have broken in the past, too) but I'll retain the original trunnion setup but with the addition of more modern bushes ie poly, which use materials the makers couldn't and are probably a vast improvement over top hats and sealing rings.

Plenty of copper grease has always worked for me... but as Johny has pointed out I've found some trunnions in the past with overlong tubes that I've had to grind down, and others where the tube is too short and I've had to reuse old ones. Some of the rubber seals have the wrong profile too; the original was a square profile but we're just getting large O-rings these days in some kits.

Watch the Henry Cole episode. He hated it, and spent most of the program trying to be positive about the place. The bike (a Triumph) seemed to be the best part of the experience. Season 16 episode 4 of the Worlds Greatest Motorbike Rides. Some of the roads we encountered on TSSC runs nearly shook the fillings out of my teeth, and became an ordeal rather than a pleasure, but the main roads were ok.

When they are good, they are very very good, and when they are bad, they are horrid, as the poem goes. EU money seems to go towards huge motorways, which are modern and well-tended, and the smaller roads are left in a state. If you go towards the wilder areas, you'll find they're wild for a reason. The roads in the North are much better; you used to be able to tell when you crossed the border by the roadnoise suddenly changing. Anyone see Henry Cole and his 'World's Greatest Motorbike Rides' on Quest last night? He started in Galway (actually Dublin Airport, 170 miles away) then motored up the coast to Sligo; he was totally fed up both at the weather and the state of the roads which he stated were no better than farm tracks in places. Things were so bad that he actually nipped across to the Isle of Man for a motorbike race before resuming, although I was slightly mystified that on his return and crossing into the North he passed within 15 miles of the Joey Dunlop Centre and Memorial Garden, but ignored it to visit a spade mill... however his highlight, helped by good weather that eventually appeared, was the Giant's Causeway. A very patchy program that completely ignored the scenery for the last twenty minutes and just focused on the non-motorbikey places he visited. It's almost as if he ditched the bike and continued in the support vehicle as it wasn't seen at all after Sligo; it's possible that he didn't bring it back after the IOM section.

I know that for Heralds they used to sell a similar-looking master cylinder but it was angled whereas the Herald versions were straight up when fitted - can't find any this morning, only the Clutch MCs which look the same but are listed with a 3/4 bore. Some of the later ones, seems to be late Series 3 onwards, are dual-circuit but the bracket mounting is sideways in comparison to our cars. I've looked at the larger dual circuit reservoirs on a number of sites but don't see any with any kind of float-related warning. On a slightly different point, I see a seller on eBay at present selling Triumph master cylinders with a '3/4 bore modification' but even the seller has a disclaimer to say they're sold as a modification and he cannot give any advice as to suitability.

Mounts are the same; so they should be a straight fit. Type 14s are bigger, I'll post a photo below to illustrate. Type 12 to left, 14 to right, and you can see how the mounts line up to the same position. The only difficulty you may find is if your hubs are not chamfered; the edge of later hubs was reprofiled in order to clear the bigger caliper and you'll find that if you fit unchamfered hubs with a bigger caliper they'll foul.

Don't forget that the Herald was originally roadtested in Kerry... and survived.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1970-1250-triumph-herald-convertable/324457808073?hash=item4b8b3140c9:g:uZ0AAOSwoyRgBzFL I thought for a moment it was this one (link above) but it's different... however it's yet another 12/50 in bits. That Dundee one looks quite solid, if anyone wanted to reassemble it.

We used to have them flying through the air, in numerous locations over here... made a huge bang when they came down too which was quite often in the wrong place.

Arrrrr... sliver me timbers, Jim lad. (That's the Arrr factor up again...)

I don't think climate change has affected it that much, so the sun does shine like it did back then when the TR was new, and the roads might even have improved in some areas, but not many. You can still see the bits of cars that dropped off back then, waiting to be collected. We were down in Carlingford a while ago, nice weather and good roads, but be sure you have your Insurance Green Card these days. Up here in The North, UK rules still apply so no Green Card needed and pounds still do for me, thank you very much. Try a short break up along the Causeway Coast, one of our favourite areas for club runs.

Strange that it keeps on running for so long after the fault starts. If it was fuel starvation it should have conked out completely. It's hunting alright, but it's the reason why it keeps on running, appearing to clear regularly - in fact too regularly - makes me wonder about the cause.

I know you have to fit most of the bolts before fitting the spring / shock assembly, but if you mean the chassis brackets must be attached to the lower wishbone first and then bolted to the chassis, it's much easier than trying to fit them with the bracket already on the car. Removal is just the reverse - unbolt the bracket from the chassis inner rail by undoing the single nut on the inner face and push through. You don't need to take the turret / engine mounting off. Remember to count the shims and replace with the same number as a starting point. There's also one bolt that fits 'back to front' through the chassis brackets, which have a flare on one side to hold the bolt head and prevent it rotating. The brackets are not handed so in order to get the head, not the nut, to the correct part of the bracket, it needs to be fitted in the opposite direction to the others.

The quarterlight is way down the list of adjustments when it comes to gaps.... fit bulkhead, adjust bonnet to bulkhead, adjust doors to bonnet, adjust rear tub to doors....and then adjust the quarterlights. Triumph must have allowed for plenty of movement in the quarterlight assembly to get the gaps right. The biggest problem I've found with them is when new skins are fitted and the fitter leaves too much metal at the join, or uses too much weld, so that the quarterlight won't fit sufficiently forward into the door, to close the gap against the pillar. Don't forget you can still fit the P-seal against the pillar to seal a large gap, if required - I know some owners omit them but they do close the gap nicely.

Can't really tell as it's a case of making one adjustment here, you knock one out there... but if your b-post gaps allow, then your door can come forward slightly at the bottom of the quarterlight - there's still a good gap there between the door skin and the screen rain channel. The quarterlight can also be adjusted by loosening the mounting screws, so get your door gaps as good as can be both at the b-post and against the bonnet, then adjust the quarterlight against the screen angle - I can see a large gap at the bottom so angle it forwards. It should be level to the top of the screen.

That's what I call a proper car.... but... what happened to the RAC badge?

Plenty of oil filter remote housings and pipes, but getting the other end that fits our blocks might be harder. Haven't had any problems with the spin-on adaptor, though, I use the WIX filters and they'll fit between the chassis rails and the relief valve no problem.

Just in case there's anyone wondering about the visual differences in earlier heads, there's a very obvious difference between the Mk1 head and Mk2; as well as the exposed pushrod tubes on one side you can see the lip that runs under the manifold on the top one in the photo.

I've just done a quick Bing search for 'chrome gearlever ferrule' and found quite a few; the one in the photo below was used by Jaguar and is very close in looks to the Triumph version, so they're not unique to the GT6 and still available. Have a look and see what suits.

£3.99? Is that the black 'Car Boot Bag' with the strip of velcro along the back and the two velcro press-studs included? ? Very nice but cost me £4.99 locally! (Also some enterprising chap is selling them on eBay for £6.99 plus £3 postage....) They'll suit our cars very well. I called in to Lidl on Wednesday and the tool section was empty; no tools, no power tools, no garage equipment or DIY stuff at all. I don't know if it's supply problems or due to Covid regulations.

Any help, Alan?

Look at the tyres, hopefully they'll tell you what's making contact. Any rubbing or grating will appear as fresh black rubber (and I'm assuming it's the tyre that's rubbing, not the steel of the wheel.) I had this on the first GT6 I owned, the tyres were quite wide and there was an enormous lip on the front wheelarches which ate into them on tight turns or large bumps. It cost me two new tyres by the time I found out, but I'd never have noticed except for the black marks on the tyres.

Diurnal? Doesn't that mean getting up twice in the night to pee? My father also used to go to the local town square in Wintertime, bounce a snowball off the back of the head of the local Head Constable, run down that street fifty yards or so, cut across the back alleys and come out on the other side in time to watch the Peeler fruitlessly trying to identify who had thrown it... in entirely the wrong direction. No wonder he never told me all that himself. Now: my uncle Jack when he was a teenager used to torment his elderly neighbours by catching their cat and throwing it up onto the roof of their house, where of course it couldn't get down again, the house being two storey. Jack would go get a ladder, rescue the cat, get rewarded, then go straight back and throw it up there again.

Ooooohhhhh very nice!! Just had a sneak peek and that's tasty. If you want to put one in this thread just click on 'choose files' or drag it to your latest post, it'll upload.

I think that means having to remove the gauges to access it... so maybe a few other options to test in situ might be easier / lazier / my sort of thing.