Colin Lindsay

Yikes! Where are the K&N filters?

Don't think it matters, although for looks I put the bolt heads forward and the nuts to the rear. They'll rust just as quickly in either direction.

Thankfully the Estate has no rear deck; I'm just hoping that after all my work the rear hatch still fits...

That's where it starts. Censor one, then censor two, then censor lots. It seems so sensible, and logical. I defend the RIGHT, no matter if I don't defend what is said, because once you decide that someone's right to their ideal is less than yours, it all goes downhill from there. And who decides what should be heard, and what not? We're living in a country where our history is being eroded, changed, and cancelled, where we take down statues of great Britons and put up statues of terrorists, and everyone has rights. Except those who the ones with rights disagree with.

Can you speed it up so as to get there more quickly and save even more fuel? 1 gallon in 6 is only approx 16%... if O/D drops the revs at a nice steady speed, particularly on a motorway at optimum cruising, it might not be far off.

Use the expanding plasterboard bolts that you get for plasterboard walls; you can even get rivet-like versions with a gun (Molly fasteners?) Push them into the hole, use the gun or screwdriver to tighten. They flare out inside so can't be pulled out. Use a larger washer to cover the top if you need to and it looks original.

It's a very handy thing to have, if you're working in the engine bay and need to turn the engine over. I have a lot of the new round versions with the large rubber button (which seems to age very quickly, and splits) plus a number of the square non-button versions, and just wanted to refurbish this one which is stuck solid - blame lockdown. The alternative is to go outdoors and trim trees. I've found quite a few companies selling the rubber switch covers for Maglite torches, which might be a perfect size; no red yet but I've found bright orange...

Going the same way as mobile phones; too many useless apps thrown in. You can check your bank balance, your weather, stocks and shares, listen to music, test your blood sugar level, temperature and calorie count, check for head lice and listen to music while watching movies and all from the comfort of your bicycle seat. I've got a 2011 iMac stripped back to the bare basics of Net, photograph viewing and word processing and I'll try to keep it that way. I've come to agree with the more expert minds here: McAfee is rubbish, which is probably why BT include it. BTW re Pete's post, I do think censorship even of Trump is not a good thing. Who decides who is right and worthy to be heard, and who should be cut off? Famous saying: "I don't agree with what you are saying, but I will defend to the death your right to say it". It's a slippery slope that only the 'woke' people will be heard and everyone else will be cancelled.

Missed that... shown twice this week, but only Monday and Today. No doubt it will be shown again. 06:00 is the time for great short films; Friday coming has London in the 1960s which has all the traffic of the day... spot the Heralds.

BT Broadband comes with McAfee Antivirus software thrown in, but it doesn't work properly on Mac. BT says it does, but a lot of user forums say it doesn't; despite numerous complaints, including from myself, BT are just ignoring the issue. I finally uninstalled it last week after getting totally fed up with some of the problems. McAfee say their engineers are working on the problem, but try reinstalling it, and if that doesn't work, reinstall your entire OS.

It's usually at junctions on the dual carriageways, when they're crossing from one side to the other; they drive out broadside and many drivers will block the inside lane while the cars go out round them in the overtaking lane, then they'll move on across. It can be scary as you approach... you're thinking: I'm doing 70 and surely he's not coming on out...

Club filter looks like the original older type; can't tell as they only have one photo of the 'other' side. I'm not sure how necessary the spring-loaded type is, I've had the old one fitted for twenty years and no leaks. Obviously not the same filter, tho...

Thanks Pete; handy to know the measurements but it's like my trouser belt - I can draw it in considerably, but on release... everything jumps back out again. I need to keep it there.

Haven't tried Opera, but recently used Brave... I think it lasted about an hour before being uninstalled again.

It's all moving towards getting you to use Microsoft Edge, which on principle I'm trying to put off as long as possible - they keep bombarding me with suggestions to use it on the Mac. I've just been made to use Microsoft Bing, which instead of finding me the Triumph Engine data I was looking for, instead listed a lot of sales and ads for completely unrelated items based on 'things you may like' and 'based on your recent searches'. That's not security, it's commerce, and monopoly...

Well I didn't so there!! That was an interesting 90 minutes, but sadly we fell at the last hurdle. However: As I suspected, the copper wire from the coil comes out to the spade terminal, so a soldering iron will remove that. In behind there's a little rubber seal around the tube for the copper wire. This being freed up the coil simply lifts out. It's attached to a backplate with a very thin earth wire, here on the right. The other end of the case has two long copper terminals which are sealed into the case with rubber seals, but can be easily resealed on replacement with Tigerseal or the like. There's a gap then two C-shaped copper brackets, plus the plunger which raises when energised to bridge these and so make a connection. The plunger does not touch the two copper terminals but the brackets which are free to move make the connection - a failsafe, maybe? They all clean up very well, case sandblasted lightly and then reassembled. There's a crinkly wasker on top of the coil, and an o-ring round the middle of the case to seal it. Rebuild in reverse order, making sure that the copper wire from the coil protrudes through the hole in the case. I rivetted the case and of course this is where it went conky-grew, one of the rivets broke the corner off the case. Replace the o-ring seal under the spade terminal, resolder the terminal (in the pic it's a quick temporary solder to confirm it's working) and happy days I have a solenoid that now clicks when energised. So that's how it's done - to test, apply power to the spade terminal and an earth to the case, you'll hear it click. Now: the reason for all that was to learn from mistakes, so I can now try the rarer red push-button version and get it working again. Notes: don't forget the crinkly washer on top of the coil, nor the spring on the plunger, don't be too rough with the rivets, seal round the copper terminals before screwing the long spade terminals and lock washers back on, and make sure before rivetting that the small copper wire from the coil is protruding out of the body, otherwise the spade terminal will just push it back in again. Simples!

THAT will never be shown in the UK. It would just offend too many people - I mean, no way would you get a free parking space like that over here. However the trailers at the end made my day... if only she'd been driving a Triumph, but she isn't so I'd pass on a loser like her.

I'll confirm this afternoon... feel a bit of investigative destruction coming on.

That's one question that's been about for centuries - why do women with children in a pram always push the pram out into the road first?

It's for the challenge, more than anything, and to beat the boredom of a long protracted lockdown... I suspect the coil is held in with a single wire to the front spade terminal, which is merely soldered on, so will try that later in the day. The internals are simple enough, just a t-shaped bar on a spring-loaded pole that moves to bridge two contacts when energised so not rocket science by any means - if I get that far a good cleanup will probably work wonders. I just don't want to repair it to destruction hence the old rusty guinea pig will suffer first. There's one online for £30 (but £15 postage????) so it's worth a try, just another thing under the belt. Peter - that's a nice job; I may practice on the casing of the test unit later. Did you have to extend the inner rod, or does it, as I suspect, sit right out into the dimple on the rear of the case, so it's only a matter of cutting off that part and replacing with the push button?

Anyone ever tried to refurbish the starter solenoid on our cars - the square version? I have quite a few rusty versions but only two of the push-button red button varieties, one of which no longer pushes. It would be nice to get it working again. Anyone tried? I've had a quick practice on a fixed-button model but whilst the case comes off easily enough I haven't yet tried to remove the innards. Any thoughts?

Interesting; yes, would like to see how it looks.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Herald-Spitfire-Twin-SuperSlim-Electric-Radiator-Cooling-Fan-Kit/223702112804?hash=item3415af5a24:g:lIwAAOSwSA5doPjQ I rather suspect this would be a slight bit of overkill, especially in a Herald... looks nice, though.

It's nice to learn new things! I had always thought the point of the EGR was to reduce emissions by lowering the temperature of the gases in the engine, thereby reducing the amount of Nitrogen Oxides, and also as a lesser function to reburn anything unburnt by the first pass through the engine. All I ever really knew about it was that Landy owners say: remove it, it saps power and causes running problems... so I did. I've also found that from 2019 it's an MOT failure to remove one... but that TD5 is long gone.

home made stud puller?