Colin Lindsay

That diff was reconditioned in 2012, went back into the car in 2013 but the GT6 was off road until 2015, covered less than 300 miles, just to local shows until 2018 - about 300 miles that year - then off road again until July this year. I'd estimate no more than 900 - 1000 miles in all. It's just started to whine but on the last run two weeks ago it was incredibly noisy at low speeds.

Got one of those on the shelf, too.

All being well then the whine is just a bearing? It's not lack of oil, anyway... it's got plenty.

No trick; just perseverance to get them all lined up and the pivot through the middle. Gripping the handbrake lever by the plastic grip and twisting sideways seems to work.

Mike did send me a lot of nice photos of the internals and his wear indication.

Interesting! Mine whines like mad at lower gears and a speed of about 30, but it goes away when the car goes faster, or on deceleration.

Well, look at it this way - if the car was perfect it would be boring. A few simple hands-on jobs really give you a sense of ownership.

Yes, however the noise of that method does put me off using it too often. "How much longer? I have ironing to do. I want to see Coronation Street. This garage is too cold. For goodness sake is it pedal up or pedal down? Make your mind up."

Should be feasible; if you look at where Ean's is broken off, it's going to be reinforced by the two bolts anyway (and largely covered by the boot stiffener) so even a butt-welded repair section with a reinforcement between the side flanges would, at worst, hold one end of the stiffener brace out slightly by a mm or two. Hardly noticeable, certainly not from outside, and with longer screws fitted to clear the new metal it would be a good fix.

Funny that the poor reviewer still gave it five stars... I have the World Record for brake bleeders, you name it I've tried them all from compressor-operated vacuum systems to Eezibleed; two years ago I bought the opposite of this system ie a vacuum hand-pump that draws fluid down and out at the bleed nipple - used it once and it's back on the shelf along with all the others, gathering dust. I just haven't found any better than the old rubber tube and jam jar method.

I sent my GT6 diff to Mike Papworth; he replaced bearings etc and checked the CW&P but didn't replace those - maybe I should have, as a few hundred miles later they're whining like mad.

If the seller doesn't swap, and I've no reason to suspect he won't if I pay the postage, then I may have to look at that. Not the first thing I've repaired to destruction.

All you need are two really rusty ones but with good ends..

That really was a senior moment, Pete. I spent so long making sure all of the other fittings / voltages and things were correct I missed the two big words at the start that said "POSITIVE EARTH". The seller did say they'll fit all Triumphs MGs and other British cars of the period... but obviously only the positive earth ones.

I bought two red LED Stop and Tail Light bulbs online last night and the confirmation e-mail states they're positive earth; my mistake! I've messaged the seller in the hope he'll swap them for negative but if not, how polarity sensitive are they if I fit them to a negative earth Triumph? Will they just be dimmer / no difference / or blow the electronics completely?

My sister lived in Hong Kong for twenty years and in Hong Kong airport was hailed by a girl from her local Chinese Restaurant in the UK... so it's definitely a lot smaller than it used to be.

You have to add the rounded ends of a spare set of rear bumpers to get that centre look; otherwise they'll just be a flat cut-off profile. The welds / joins will be hidden in behind the front overriders.

Moss Europe do them as well but they're £1000 for the 6-cylinder and £800 for Spitfire / Herald... https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/roller-rockers.html You can get lots of them in the USA, it seems much cheaper once all the additional costs are taken into consideration, a firm called Goodparts is very highly recommended.

That's how I did the GT6 carpets; soldering iron from underneath. Is the setup same as the Herald, where you have two holes at the front through the floor and so accessible from underneath, but the rears are into caged nuts which are closed at the bottom? In which case just locate the front two, fit the seat runners at the front, and work downwards through the runners to find the rear mountings.

The problem is that any of the ones I've found so far are quite large; this one is a welding gas y-piece with a 5/8 UNF thread, but once attached to the head it's going to be quite bulky. One thought has just come to me; you know the blanked-off take-off at the other end of the head... TRs use it for the heater output. I'm wondering how any kind of heat sensor there would accurately reflect the state of the engine cooling? It's certainly a ready-tapped aperture into the cooling system... but would it be suitable for any kind of adjustable sensor?

Or electrical cable from an old wiring loom; the outer coating helps avoid damage too. It should not require massive amounts of pulling, just a gentle, firm and most importantly slow regular movement should work. I've done it on my own on a Spitfire, one hand inside pulling the cable and the other outside applying palm pressure to the glass, so no force is required.

Thankfully back in those days I drove petrol only, so never had to try it. Now that I've got a diesel, it's off road so much that £20 lasts about 2 months... but local breakers were making a fortune out of replacement diesel pumps; prices of £1000 - £1800 were not uncommon for Rover 25 or VW Jetta pumps back in the early 2000s.

With Brexit looming the cross-border fuel smugglers over here will have a field day. Everything from acid to bleach is used to kill the colour of Irish diesel, which is dyed green for Customs and Revenue marker use, then it's sold through dodgy outlets that are closed weekly and reopen somewhere else the next day. A few years back they were making so much money that when you filled your tank for about a tenner they gave you free groceries as well, which made you feel much better when your engine gave up a few months later.

Firstly do you need a fan? Are there current heating / cooling problems? Secondly, don't go for a fixed temperature controller, go for a variable system. There's quite a wide choice, the link is to both a digital and a manual controller from a kit car builder website, but there are dozens available. https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/cooling-fans#/pageSize=20&viewMode=grid&orderBy=15

Those shouldn't have an outer sleeve, Pete; only the rear springs do.