Colin Lindsay

I soundproofed an old room above a garage for a music room / recording studio and put four-inch Kingspan insulation all round the walls, plastered over that, insulated the floor between the joists, and carpeted the flooring I put over that. You should have been able to shake the walls with no sound being audible from outside... so imagine my disappointment when I found that I can play a CD at moderate volume - 3 or 4 out of 10, and hear it in the kitchen half a house away. I think the sound is travelling along the joists and very audible from the ceiling in some rooms, or if you put your ear to the floor upstairs. When my daughter works nights I daren't make a sound. Re vehicle soundproofing - most of the noise in my GT6 comes from the rear / boot area, so I reckon a heavy carpet and underlay, plus a few anti-drum panels, will help somewhat.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AccuSpark-Red-Rotor-Arm-for-Delco-4-6cyl-Distributors-Triumph-Vauxhall-Bedford/170930011146?hash=item27cc38fc0a:g:ATEAAOSwtnpXpba9

Top of the class, Clive - the plate obscures the nut / stud head so I prised it out before the photo. The bottom leaf fits into the groove on top of the diff and the plate then fits flat across the screw holes.

No probs; I was experiencing a bit of deja-vu and thought the mind was playing tricks! Let us know what you try or how you get on.

Isn't this post a duplicate of this one? I went off to check old posts, as I had remembered an almost identical fault from a short while ago, and wanted to see how that had ended up. I'm assuming then that neither problem was ever solved?

That's interesting and surprises my sense of... neatness... or whatever. If you look at my post on early Heralds above then that long tube with the holes in, that runs along the entire 1200 head, would have appeared to me like the end of a sprinkler-hose type thing - water goes in the housing end and is forced out through the holes at regular intervals, to come back out of the head through the port on the left. If the water goes in the left port then it comes out through that pipe, so has to get into it through the small holes along the bottom edge. Even comparing the ports, you're forcing water in through a large port and out through a small. I wonder why? Later heads don't have the pipe at all; I'm assuming from that that it wasn't terribly efficient.

Is that the same for all, Johnny - Heralds / 4 cylinder included? One of those things I never wondered about before; I just fitted the parts and let them work away by themselves...

I nipped out there for a quick photo (absolute downpour going on at present!) The corroded side was behind the boot stay bracket; it has cleaned up very well and needs just a little tack / fill in to restore it. The other side, with no stay, is mint. It may be an idea to have a cup washer welded into place and the surrounding metal built around it; must go rummage and see what sizes I have.

Once the bolts arrive I'll see what fits, Martyn - the actual bootlid itself is cupped where the bolts go through; I had to grind all four off earlier and it actually did occur to me to look for washers on the outside as well as the inside, but never found any. I think washers will be a good reinforcement once I get the rusted-through section repaired; I seem to have a few lying about so hope they fit the new bolts.

To be fair, John, I've reread your post a few times and it doesn't mention how the water goes into the head, or out of it - just to thermostat and water pump. Even your second post still does not say: 'right port in, left port out' so I've had to combine the two, scrolling up and down, to work out that: the port on the right from the back (and therefore left from front view) goes to the thermostat, and the port on the left from back (or right from front view) goes down to the water pump. If the pump 'puts it BACK into the engine, via the other port' and 'the port to the thermostat takes coolant to the top of the radiator', then that last port must be the outlet - therefore the one on the left as you look at the housing from the front, which I'm assuming Dr Kai is doing as he hasn't removed his. So it's in: right and out: left.

Assuming that the water comes into the pump from below - cooler water from the bottom of the radiator which is pumped upwards - then it seems logical for a pump rotating in clockwise rotation to pump water into the first inlet that it comes to ie the one to the left of the head. However in the early Herald this is blocked by a right-turn about an inch in; the other port has a long cooling tube which runs the entire length of the head. It seems more logical to have the water pumped into this tube - called the water delivery tube, part 54 below - so that it is forced out at the rear of the head and finds it's way back through the larger aperture to the left rather than going in on the left against a right-angled restriction and having to be forced / drawn along the cooling tube back to the pump. The uprated 1200 engine did away with the delivery tube but again is it correct to assume the water would still flow the same way; they can't have reversed the flow?

I bought two side seals from Canleys many years ago; they came in a roll that is cut to size around the glass. I don't think anyone has complete original seals. The seal is still listed as 704786 or 704787 and is now NLA in their catalogue. If I can I'll nip out later today and get some photographs / measurements of the profile; I'm almost sure I have original seals still attached to the side window glass. Probably too far gone to be reuseable but I'll see if I can get up to the roofspace and again examine the profile.

Looks exactly the same as the Dodomat I bought a while back. I can certainly recommend that stuff for gearbox tunnels, £29 for 20 sheets and it takes 5 - 6 for each tunnel.

Canleys say that 'rather than having a rigidly-mounted transverse leaf spring, only the lower leaf of the spring is bolted onto the differential. The remaining leaves are mounted in a box with a pivot through it so that the upper leaves are ‘floating’. So: they appear to state that it's bolted and indeed it does look like a bolt, but it's actually not completely threaded, and just sits in the hole on top of the diff. Only the top is threaded and the nut just keeps it in place once pushed upwards through the spring; the stud section being thicker than the threaded top portion. I've managed to find a clearer photo of one of my own and it's clear it's just a stud, fastened to the bottom leaf by a threaded upper section and nut, and the pivot bolt and tube passes through above it. The entire box is bolted to the diff, not the spring as you would believe from the wording on Canleys site.

If you think that's bad, try eBay. "1973 Triumph GT6, only one on UK roads..."

Thanks Rob - located and ordered online.

One of mine has snapped off in behind due to rust and the other needs removed to repair a slightly rusty bit on the 1200 bootlid, so will probably have to be ground off too. These are not shown in any of the parts manual diagrams but the parts list gives part number KX4504, which according to data I've found online is a setscrew, flat, countersunk, 80 degree head in No10 UNF and 1/2 inch long. Can anyone confirm No10 UNF in Imperial fractions? I'm not too worried about matching anything as if I get close I'll just replace all four, but would like to get it as close to original as I can; after all they're quite visible on the bootlid.

Dry fit it first, with no mastic or sealant, just to see how closely it matches the contour of the bonnet especially at the outer corners. If you're happy that it requires no fettling I'd maybe even start at the centre; mark the centre of the bonnet, mark the centre of the trim, line up and work outwards.

If you don't want to keep it, grab one end and pull. If you do, prise off very very carefully an inch or so at a time. Sometimes they bend very easily, and just when you think you're free and clear.

Here comes the thread drift: a local hotel I stayed in a while back (when you were able to do such things) had only one negative review, 'terrible'. Why? "We can't fault the hotel but the weather was bad."

Ever read any of the reviews of Triumph cars?

I've just washed my hair and can't do a thing with it, or as the rabbit said: I've just washed my thing and can't do a hare with it...

I should have known you'd be doing it properly, but was just making sure! As Pete says it's just something preventing the nipple from seating correctly, threads or debris (I wonder did it ever work or did a PO fit it incorrectly?) Once the replacements arrive you should be able to find the problem easily enough.

Yikes!! That's long overdue. Bleed the entire system as the fluid is bound to be long past its' best; but having said that, you never know what state the rear bleed nipples are in after all that time, plus the hoses must be suffering too after 23 years on the same car. You may have opened a whole can of worms here! Brakes are one part of the car you don't neglect - more people have suffered due to a car that won't stop than ever did from one that won't go...

It's certainly not common; unless it's these new calipers members have been complaining about. The cause is going to be an incorrectly tightened bleed nipple, but is it due to distortion, damaged threads or dirt? you'll have to remove it and check for damage. If you can't see any visible damage, easiest thing to do is replace the bleed nipple, and if it still leaks then the fault is with the caliper.