Colin Lindsay

Had to run out to the garage and measure that; my calipers tell me the old pipe is 0.24 / 0.25 of an inch outer diameter. 1/4 will do, then!

Current eBay sellers are selling a full kit of both 5/16 and 1/4, which they claim is for all models, so that would seem to support your post. I'm not sure how accurate they are as the Spare Parts Catalogue just lists the pipe as 307537, no diameter given. None of my WSM give the diameter of the pipe, but am still looking. It's quite annoying at present that all I can find is supplied lengths of both sizes, but not one trader or site states what is actually required... so I don't know if I need to shell out on yet another roll of kunifer... what's the worst that can happen if I use only 1/4...

The front pinion oil seal should prevent leaks from here in normal use, so if you've replaced yours properly then that should have cured this problem - however - I remember replacing these before then leaving the diff on a floor prior to fitting and finding the oil had still run out past the seal, due to the slight downward angle of the front end. It did not run out when fitted level or in use, but I'm wondering that if there is still potential for leaks in this area even with a new seal, is it possible that yours has been overfilled, and will stop leaking once the oil drops down to the proper level? Is your breather pin on the top clear, so that pressure is not blowing the oil out? Just a couple of thoughts...

Well spotted! That's exactly what it looks like, although has it been adapted for any other purpose here? The hex nut at the bottom appears to have been ground off.

That was just an idle thought when I was posting, so I thought I'd ask - is there a legal maximum length of hose ie could the entire hose be of rubber if you so desired? A join, where the pipe runs through the centre outrigger, may be of benefit but I'll just sheath the pipe in rubber at this point to prevent chafing. I haven't been in a Mini in an age - my last one, sold in 1982, cost me £900, was found to be two cars welded together, and went off for trade-in with the driver's door held closed by a length of rope tied to the passenger door...

But you should see the size of his right thigh....!

Thanks guys, as usual I'm just thinking out loud and to be honest the rubber pipe wouldn't be more than about four inches; allowing for the pipe inserted inside there'd be about two inches of rubber alone. Rob's right about the metric stuff; it's imperial I need and don't want some modern approximation that won't suit either olives or pipe ends. The GT6 WSM fuel line shows a rubber joint on the Mk2, but not on the Mk1 - see photo, item 24 - so I'm assuming a short length won't cause any problems, although I'd rather use one continuous length if I can get some. Edited - just went ahead and bought a roll of 25ft by 1/4; might as well do a proper job for peace of mind, even if the other options are safe enough. Paranoid as usual, me.

My Mk1 GT6 has the original pipe that it came with; I'm presuming a PO-fitted version in a single length of copper pipe all the way to the fuel filter just short of the pump. Having observed a slight kink in it I trimmed about three inches off the extra length at the filter end, only to find it was now too short at the tank end... I think that where I have followed the chassis contours rigidly, the PO went straight across curves etc so this would have resulted in it being slightly short when properly routed and there used to be a large curve below the fuel tank which I have now corrected, albeit drastically... I have two options: refit a complete length of original pipe, which I think is unobtainable (unless of course you know better, is it 1/4 inch?) or else inset a piece of Gates ethanol-resistant fuel pipe along the length, probably about four to six inches worth which will give me the length I require. I think from the WSM that this was done originally, but don't know exactly where - was it a requirement for the middle outrigger section to prevent metal-to-metal contact? I just want to confirm that this is street- and more importantly MOT-legal before I cut yet more bits off the pipe... is there a legal limit for a length of rubber fuel hose? I think I really just need reassurance that I'm not going to go up in flames once the car goes back on the road...

According to the noticeboard, the TSSC HQ has been closed since Christmas Eve for the 'New Year'. I didn't think at the time that they meant for all of it.

A photo would confirm but you're probably right that it's been an aeriel. If you're not using it for that purpose, you could fit a high-level brake light these days...

Modern repro Lucas?? Pah. Mine are all ex-Triumph models, last few I bought were £1 each... second hand of course but they all seem to last ages; I'm still on the one I used to convert the GT6 back in 2001 and it's going as strongly as ever. I'm curious as I could well give a modern version a try on the next Herald rebuild, but don't want too much faffing about adding brackets etc. I've got a lovely Delco one that I may use instead, but it's NOS and a shame to dirty it when there may be an alternative.

I'll clarify that slightly before I get things thrown at me - they're perfectly adequate for Triumphs but not quite as good as a modern, which has an unfair advantage of later improved technology and design. We drive much faster these days and expect brakes to compensate much more, and wonder why a Herald that was expected to trundle about all day at forty miles per hour won't stop well at 70. Drum-braked Heralds are positively heart-stopping - I suppose I should be grateful that they stop something... but yes moderns are becoming so boring these days. I still miss the fun of exploring the shelves in long-gone Motor Factors for bolt-on accessories like rear window louvres, spotlights or stereos with only two connections that all fitted the same aftermarket under-dash pod...

Ah... now you're at the top of the slippery slope. Why do we put up with such inefficient engines? Only four gears? Crude suspension? Uncomfortable seats? Why do some owners even keep dynamos? Is that alternator a straight fit, and how does it compare re price? Just curious, not looking over the edge of the slippery slope just yet...

I think the misconception of some owners (Not our OP here!) is that they believe a servo will bring their brakes up to modern standards, which as many other posters have pointed out is not the case. I must agree with Doug that the problem with many threads is that they veer from what the OP wants, to what subsequent posters think he should do as an alternative or in some cases as an extreme modification, which can be frustrating if, like me, you have the part already and want the challenge of making it work. I'm all for suggestions and debate (not forgetting thread drift) but the original question can sometimes be submerged and therefore go unanswered.

I just had a quick look round the net and it appears you can still get Girling servos but any of those I clicked on are huge money, and I didn't find any that were stated as dedicated for Triumphs. Modern cars have too many gadgets to lull drivers to sleep, the current 'night vision' one seems to show that it's okay to go out jogging with your dog in dark clothing at night, run across roads with no regards to traffic, and then expect the driver to have purchased the necessary upgrade in equipment to spot and avoid you. I note the driver must have had the horn removed and did not have an extensive vocabulary, which is not usually the case in real life....

Same yellow polybushes as I use!! If only I could fabricate to the same standard, tho...

Sadly, with the close of many Military bases over here a few years back we lost the availability of Helicopter fuel, which was much loved by motorbikers and other motoring enthusiasts with a source to obtain it...

It connects to the rear gearbox mounting; the plate that bolts from main rail to main rail should have a hole in it or a tab on it - some do and some don't, which I suspect depends on whether or not the car had a stay, or not. This isn't a great photo but shows the assembly from underneath on a very oily mount in a 948 - a different fitting to later cars- but some of my 1200s have a tab off the more familiar four-bolt mounting plate to which the stay bolts.

It's a gearbox bracket, which bolts onto the bottom rear of the gearbox case and then takes a stabilising rod which connects to a small bracket on the chassis. It's supposed to prevent flex of the gearbox when accelerating or decelerating thereby straining mountings or other parts. You can just see the bracket to the rear underside of this gearbox, and I've photographed another assembly that I'll have to refurbish before use. They're not necessary, but as I had one fitted I'll replace just for the sake of it. The rubbers look to be roughly the same as front shock absorber top rubbers.

I'm used to making my own pipes so I'd be inclined to say new pipe. I'm overly cautious with brakes but then I use them a lot and like to know they're there when required. The Vitesse setup must vary from the GT6 and Herald routes that I'm familiar with, so not exactly sure where this pipe runs - mine all run across the chassis behind the rear diff mounting. I've never bought one of those sets so I'm assuming the pipes are all labelled, and so you haven't used a longer one somewhere else?

I never retorqued the GT6 engine after the rebuild and will probably do it now that it's almost back on the road again, about 500 miles later. I doubt if you'll disturb anything, but at least you'll have peace of mind. I changed the oil a few days ago and there was some white emulsion in the bottom of the drainer, I'm putting that down to condensation and 18 months without the engine starting but want to check just to be sure, so will give the head nuts a check over this weekend.

I have three glass ones bought over the years and never used... I'm always keeping them for that 'special' car that never gets finished. They look nice but a bit blingy for just a fuel filter; but then you can clean them out provided the O rings are suitable to be reused or you can obtain suitably sized spares. They do appear to have a fine mesh filter which may not be as good as a paper element in keeping particles out of the carbs. I use plastic versions on the GT6 and change them at least yearly; there are two or three versions some with plastic frames round the element and some with metal. At under a pound each at shows I'd reckon they're a better option if treated as a disposable item and changed as they discolour or perish.

Happy birthday then forum mate Many more may you see. (Reminds me of the story where the judge sentenced an old codger to twenty years; the old guy was distraught and stated that he would never live that long. The judge leaned over, gave him a big smile and said: "Well just do as many as you can...")

No time like the present, but no present at this time.

Not often these come up for sale. Might make a nice Triumph for somebody with the time and skill to finish it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1962-Triumph-Herald-Courier-Van-Very-rare-Concours-rebuild-needing-finishing/164112036971?hash=item2635d6f46b:g:kaEAAOSw59heYT6b