Colin Lindsay

Looks like a plastic bag tied round it? (I have to make up for not spotting the missing floor by spotting something else...)

I've found Rimmers massively expensive compared to other suppliers, Canleys slightly cheaper but often high postage costs, Paddocks the best I've found so far with good prices and low carriage. For rare or hard to get parts, or repair sections and outriggers try Chic Doig.

Mk3 fuel filler exited the floor just behind the wheel arch on the filler cap side; if you have one you'll see about an inch of hose hanging through a hole in the floor.

SimonBBC is usually a reputable seller; I bought electronic ignition from him over the years and it hasn't let me down. I've no knowledge of where he gets the base unit from but the electronics should be good.

Make sure when removing the old ones that you get the metal sleeve out too; often members just remove the rubber inner and the sleeve stays where it is, thereby making fitting the replacements almost impossible. If you lubricate it well it will slide in under reasonable pressure, it shouldn't take tons of force. Have you removed the casing from the diff? Makes things a lot easier!

https://www.istockphoto.com/gb/illustrations/dashboard?mediatype=illustration&phrase=dashboard&sort=best Any use? All royalty free - the one that caught my eye is this set:

Handbrake cable?

ME???? Not a chance, Rabbit - once bitten, and that was long ago. Too much Scots blood in me to throw money away. As I've said, Newton didn't get the order and Paddocks did; probably the reason they get most of my orders this weather. I sent three wiper motors to Newark last week for £12 all wrapped in bubble wrap in a shoe box and they must have weighed twenty times the weight of five rubber straps. The woman in the Post Office knows me too well, we had a lengthy discussion about free car tax a while back which I mentioned somewhere on the forum, and she lets quite a queue build up while she finds the cheapest and best option. I think she takes pity on the grey hair...

If it's the MC then fluid is getting past the seal; instead of being pumped it's escaping round the sides and so the pedal goes down with no effect at the brakes. Item 13 in this exploded diagram is the seal, just behind the piston that you can see if you look at the end of the cylinder (part 14). It's all held in with a circlip and if you feel up to the job you can replace it quite easily yourself. Kits are about £6 or so and contain all the bits you need to refurbish; just make sure you buy the correct version for your master cylinder. Where did you get the one you replaced the original with - was it new? Did it come with the proper length of push-rod? (part 15)

No, Tony's right, and it's something I thought about earlier but of course never said anything - the air that drives the tools has to come out somewhere, all air tools will have an exhaust (on my die grinders it's a circular aperture around the input, and on the impact wrench it's a little grille on the end of the handle) and if there's oil in the air it too comes out and will spatter the area you're working on. It's happened to me before and it can cover quite an area.

Just fitted a set and used Waxoyl; may as well rust proof them at the same time...

I have a couple of GT6 versions of that one, but never saw a Herald version - was there one?

You can get Air-tool Oil specifically made for the job, (Lucas and SIP sell their own brands) but whether it's any better than 3-in-1 is anybody's guess! I'm actually quite sore on air tools and rarely oil them, then I'll get guilty and give them a real soak and drain.

Incidentally, is your number plate light working? Is that on the same circuit as the tail lights?

Lol, I just did after you mentioned it...

Very steep for five rubber straps that fitted in a padded Jiffy bag; furthermore Paddocks also sent me a bellhousing fitting kit, nuts and bolts, in the same bag, so it wasn't weight related. It's amazing to think that a few weeks ago (not now, for some reason!) I could have taken a return flight for £33 and picked the items up, myself... but it's one of the things I look for particularly from eBay sellers: free UK postage, and amazingly only one has ever queried it, and tried to increase the price, in all the years I've been buying things.

From my own perspective James Paddock are doing sterling work as usual, so no problems there; but it's the eBay sellers who are falling down. I ordered a pot of paint ten days ago, still waiting on the 'delivery by 27th March' part of the deal - they e-mailed me yesterday to tell me my order had been processed. Still waiting on fifteen glass fuses ordered on March 24th, but clothing bought from J D Williams on Sunday arrived on Monday, less than 24 hours later, so it doesn't seem to be the fault of the delivery services. Closer to home, I need glass cut for the sandblast cabinet, plus blasting medium - can't have either delivered - but can't get to the suppliers! The glass cutter is only three miles away, too. Can't get to the Engineering Works either to use their lathes to skim brake discs, I might contaminate the father-in-law. As for Newton Commercial... well I cancelled the order when the final price came up in my shopping basket: Paddocks posted the same straps (£5 cheaper, too) to me for less than a fiver... so it pays to shop around. I need quite a few rubber grommets and more steering column bushes so will give Paddocks another order later today.

I reckon it would be quicker to start at the rear, where you took the feed for the rear lights, and work forward. (I'm assuming the feed was from the rear loom?) Just check and squeeze / move each part of the loom in case it's a breakage of brittle wires inside the outer coating. Here's hoping it's something simple.

Top (red) ones are repair sections only, not full panels, and they go around the rear wheel arch. Hold one against the side of the car and you'll see the profile. As Rob says the other is the outer part of the wheelarch in behind the rear wing; if you look at that area you'll see the seam running right up and around the wheelarch. That's the outer part closest to the wing.

Can someone please give me the English translation? I'm feeling totally lost... not to mention feeling very old...

I can get to mine but can't get materials! Been waiting over a week for fuses, can't get paint, or sandblast medium, but thankfully lots of petrol so greasy bits are all being cleaned. You'd think with so many people being housebound they'd allow you the materials to do things while you're stuck there...

There is only one fuse on the 13/60, which is one more than on the 1200; it's a 25amp for the headlamp flasher circuit and lives near the coil on the bulkhead. 13/60s had a headlamp flash, which meant that if you flashed it while the lights were on, you drew a lot of current to both dip and main beams together, so needed a fuse to avoid melting the loom. It's not in any way connected to the rear lights. After reading the thread I believe Martin has inadvertently pulled the wires in order to stretch to the towbar wiring and has either dislodged a connector or has shorted out against a sharp edge of the bodywork (be careful with that, just in case!!) so it's going to be a laborious task of checking every inch of the loom from the rear forwards.

This was the thickest adaptor I ever saw; I bought the whole thing years ago for about a pound (just wanted the NOS fan) and it was only recently that I discovered it came off a tractor. Clearance on the GT6 would have been very limited...

Good man, Tom, welcome and keep us posted as to the progress of the 1200.

Last ones I adjusted were the new shoes on the GT6; I locked them as fully as they would go with a square-holed spanner specially for the adjuster, then slacked off one click and they rotated freely. Two clicks was way too loose. The reason I was asking is because it's an eccentric adjuster, and doesn't necessarily slacken off in exact increments, so I was wondering if this was maybe an old trick to bring one particular side of the adjuster back round again. Always on the lookout for tricks!