Colin Lindsay

Only in adverts for yoghurt or certain BBC programmes that feature dancing...

Herald Estate doesn't have one, as the fuel take-off is at the bottom of the tank, so if you undo the fuel line on an Estate, the contents of the tank all run out. I've just changed my clothes and opened all the garage windows after finding that a supposedly empty car had about two gallons in it. The floor is nice and clean now.

Silver cap at the bottom is pull-off (top pic). If you drill out the buttons on the bushes, or crush them inwards (I used plumber's pliers ground down to points - don't damage the tube!) they'll then slide out with a bit of effort. Lubricate the new ones before sliding back in and keep the buttons in line with the holes so they'll pop into place once in the right spot. I did an article for The Courier on the Herald ones, but it'll not be in print for a month or two yet. The horn (I think!) starts off purple then goes to brown, but please check before taking my word for it!

You do know what they say about a second marriage, it's the triumph of optimism over experience. Cue the old song: "I wish I was single again..." It works both ways; they refunded me £30-odd last year, for an item I hadn't bought. I tried to tell them, but they wouldn't listen and told me the case is now closed. Okay, then...

The cap should have a rubber seal all the way round, as in the photo; otherwise metal to metal will never seal.

Just one option will do me: good value, and fit for purpose.

... but when the same bearing from a Triumph supplier costs £16 or £17 do we trust them to supply a suitable, safe and well-made part? We do, of course. And when the bearing I bought for my TR7 from a trusted supplier fell apart on fitting, before the car even saw the road, I never went back to them for anything else, which is the best way to hit them.

Here's todays offering; reported not only to ActionFraud but also UK Police - the e-mail address might be of use to anyone else, forward the scam to them as it all helps as they can build up intelligence and maybe locate the scammers. The worrying part about this scam is that the Refund number quoted is my NI Electricity account number. NFIBPhishing@city-of-london.pnn.police.uk

I haven't searched but try Chic Doig. Are they the same as early Herald versions? One on eBay, Germany: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Herald-Bj-59-71-Tankgeber-Tankmesgerat-Fuel-Gauge-Sender-Unit/132817120094?hash=item1eec846b5e:g:GyAAAOSwo7ZbwEg8

I think I posted this somewhere else recently (on this forum) but I complained to two companies that their parts were wrong and they told me a) no-one else has ever complained before, but b) I was right, and they would correct their stock asap. Sometimes it's not the fault of the companies, as when they deal with a lot of different vehicles and hundreds of orders they can only assume, in light of no-one telling them any different, that all is in order. You don't have to rant and rave, just enlighten them, and in many cases I'm sure they'll do what they can. When they don't - re Revotec mentioned above - then you do have redress through the Sale of Goods (Distance Selling) Act, but I'm wondering if their reply was more along the lines of 'no point in returning it as we only have the same, so can you modify it?' - in which case I'd expect some kind of financial adjustment if not a partial or full refund. I bought two O-rings recently for a speedo drive and they were a third of the thickness of the old one, with the result that there's not a hope in the hot place of them sealing; I just reused the old ones. Did I complain? Wasn't worth the bother... so I'm as guilty as the rest. Re Pete and premium marques... well if I had the deep pockets to afford an Aston Martin I'd probably be able to shell out over the odds for a properly-made replacement part, but as I don't... well, there are dealers I go to every time, and some I only use as a last resort since no-one else has the part I require, and then of course when it arrives, it's rubbish... AND: as a just-this-minute update, I opened a packet of seals for type 14 calipers that I've had in my stock for about three years, and the piston-chamber seal is about 2mm longer than the old one, so if it fits at all, there's going to be a massive loop...

how accurate are the Arun ones? There's no photograph and I wouldn't want to find the correct dimension and thread on a head that's smaller than the original engine screw. The originals are quite flat, and quite large.

If you REALLY REALLY want to, it can be removed; but as the guys have said it'll be well rusted in place. The biggest problem is twisting the entire neck off, so make sure you're turning the bolt against the neck, not the neck against the tank. It really needs something like an impact driver where rapid hammering will break the seal. I've done it on Herald tanks up until now, with success, but it takes care. The bolt itself is quite shallow; mine required rethreading as some of the threads were quite blunt, for some reason... plus a good sealing washer.

Currently £109 on eBay with free delivery, but for the later Spitfire models with no header tank - I'd guess the other versions are also available, but as I'm not familiar with the exact spec I can't search properly for the header version.

I open the garage and look at a TR7 and wonder that myself..

Wouldn't do any harm, as, even if you do have one fitted, you can't always be looking at the gauge. Buzzers are cheap these days and should be simple to connect up. (The pipe for the gauge intended for my Herald is metal, so should last slightly longer than plastic. Now I'll have to inspect the GT6 pipe as it's been on there twenty years.)

Do you plate them yourself? I'd be interested in the process, or the costs.

Didn't the TR6 have a different setup for the North American market? Must do a quick search... Back again; this is the only photo I could find, from Rimmers' site: Hard to tell from that angle but it looks close to the one in the photo further up.

O/d shouldn't work in reverse, so I reckon as Johny says it's a badly worn or contaminated clutch. When you say there's no change in tone of drive you mean the engine revs don't go up? Unless it's the diff but I'm racking my brains to work out how it would lose traction on both wheels and then work again normally.

What was the name of that song? "Should I stay or should I go now?" I'd go now, you don't know where the next loo is.

Brown. It'll match the stains on the seats, first time you try to brake...

That's what I'm finding. It's an easy option for suppliers; there may not be a huge demand for them but at the end of the day they're only screws so no massive outlay and while I'm no anorak I do like to replace timing covers with the proper items. I think my only option is to blast my originals and then just paint over them, which I'm reluctant to do as the shiny silver ones look a lot neater. IMHO of course!

Cures ONE problem, maybe... still not convinced that I should be using it. If I was fitting those trays I'd seal them with mastic underneath so that what ends up in the trays, stays in the trays.

You mean like when you go to bed needing a pee, then wake up not needing one? 😮

Sadly these days only the mind drifts... wheeeeeeeeeee

I had a mental image of your Triumph with a square of corrugated card screwed on under both master cylinders...