Colin Lindsay

Do you remember the old story of the NASA astronaut - I think it was John Glenn, but he's supposed to have quoted someone else - when whilst he was sitting on the launchpad, someone asked him how he felt? His reply was along the lines of: "How do you think I feel, sitting on top of the end results of a thousand low-bidders?" Next time I'm sitting at 70 in the GT6 I must remember not to think about having bought the cheaper UJs off eBay...

So which was at fault? Guides or rings?

You guys are supposed to be keeping me on track, yet the GT6 has been stripped for bodywork, the TR7 underside is complete, and I've now started this one... again... Work stopped after the sudden death of a mate in the TSSC way back in 2003, and it was shunted into a corner shortly afterwards when I couldn't get the roof to fit. It was fully resprayed in 2-pack, engine was running but a bit smokey and lights etc were working. I discovered that the rear tub is incorrectly fitted - as is the bulkhead - so left it for a short time to work on other things. 16 years later a lot of things have suffered from a draughty garage, so when the lift came free this week.... Engine and gearbox out; gearbox already refurbished and engine down to the bare block for bore work. Heater has been rebuilt but I'm debating a modern blower motor, so need to source a Micra version as a field test. All brake pipes to be remade in kunifer; calipers are stripped down, and rear cylinders still good as no fluid was even put into them. I'm replacing all of the brake hoses; brand new stainless versions but they've been fitted for nearly twenty years and I can't trust the condition of the rubber inside. Steering and anti-roll bar still to come off and be refurbished. All of the suspension is being rebushed, blasted and repainted first of course. The grey rusty ones are the old ones, and the new shiny black replacements ready to fit once the diff has been refurbished. This is one of the reasons I'll never use Hammerite for anything; the suspension parts flaked and rusted even in storage. I'm using yellow polybushes all round. The body and bulkhead need to be freed up then properly gapped and spaced, and as I can't do that on my own, since the roof has to come off too, I have a mate coming next week for an afternoon. With the roof off I'll fit the headlining properly, then strip out the dash and refit the interior - all so much easier with the roof off. It will be the last part to go on. The saddest part is the removal and binning of so many new parts fitted back then that have suffered from disuse ever since.The four tyres were all brand new; ignore the Spitfire wheel that was fitted to the front when a Herald wheel and tyre was required urgently for another car. I can't risk tyres which have stood on a car since 2002 or thereabouts so will have to fork out on four new ones before long. Only when I'm sure they'll actually be used, though... So: the poor 1200 convertible is once more pushed to the side...

https://www.mgexp.com/article/triplex-window-date-code.html This is for Triplex; I know they're now owned by Pilkington so hope the codes are the same.

I can't find any definitive proof; not one of the reference photos I have show any clear difference in the angles, or else they're hidden behind the wiper motor. John Thomason's guide states that all models of GT6 were the same throughout production, and the photos of Mk1 and Mk2 master cylinders show identical brackets, whilst the Mk3 has the same master cylinder so presumably would not require any alteration to the bracket. His photo of the revised late Mk3 - which would fit in with the timeline of the Spitfire Mkiv - may have different brackets, but the photo isn't clear enough to be certain and it's such a small difference. He mentions that in the Spitfire mkiv the brake master cylinder was suddenly manufactured with holes in each side, but has no reason why - that appears to be one in Mark's original post. Master cylinders, certainly, changed, but no word of the brackets. There are definitely at least two different angles, but it would be interesting to confirm their applications. I have a remanufactured set in stainless and they're definitely angled - see photo - but it would be interesting to find out why the maker decided he needed the difference, and what it was based on originally. Certainly, with Heralds, I'd be inclined to agree with Rabbit - they're all the same, and I have far too many of them too.

So the Herald brake bracket is the same as the clutch, or different? All mine are the same, clutch and brake; I've just lined up nearly a dozen spares plus two new stainless steel versions and they're all the same angle. If they're meant to be different I'm in trouble...

I didn't mean for selling, Clive!! I meant for the cost of replacement, if I need another one. Traders are indeed a different story; I needed a 1200 air filter box years ago and was sold one as 'very hard to find!' and priced accordingly; I now have half a dozen of the things, and I still won't get half of what I was charged back then if I tried to sell one. However: eBay still surprises me as to what things will go for, and what some buyers are prepared to pay.

That's a WEEK later? Come to think of it, I've done that too. The stripdown is always much faster than the rebuild, sometimes by about twenty years or so. Keep us posted as to progress.

A lot dearer. I've had a wake-up call in recent months as to what some of the bits I have lying about are actually worth these days.

I think they're all like that; I remember a difference in the angles with my old ones too. I've no idea why and as you say the brake bracket has the strengthening bar, but I've remarked on the difference before.

I'm assuming that's with the spring and shock already removed? That's the bit that will cause real problems if you unbolt both wishbones with them still fitted. Personally I'd fit it as separate bits that can all be greased or cleaned, especially the trunnion; you can leave the top ball joint attached and grease it if it's greasable, plus you can check the rubber boots too. It won't take much longer and may cost, at most, a few replacement nylocs. You may as well service the bits now, and that's it for the next while.

I know that the external design of the GT6 versions changed, it was to do with the length of the strengthening ribs on the front of the box, which were (I think) lengthened between very early and later models. I've no idea of the Vitesse but thought the carb fittings were more or less the same distance, but may have small differences like extra holes to match small differences in the carbs.

Excellent work; thanks for the update.

It goes on the side of the engine..... Sorry, couldn't resist that one. That's a lot of work and a lot of spares to keep you going for a while! If your garage is like mine, look for something else and you'll find the starter. That gearbox tunnel looks very solid - who did it come from?

Only in adverts for yoghurt or certain BBC programmes that feature dancing...

Herald Estate doesn't have one, as the fuel take-off is at the bottom of the tank, so if you undo the fuel line on an Estate, the contents of the tank all run out. I've just changed my clothes and opened all the garage windows after finding that a supposedly empty car had about two gallons in it. The floor is nice and clean now.

Silver cap at the bottom is pull-off (top pic). If you drill out the buttons on the bushes, or crush them inwards (I used plumber's pliers ground down to points - don't damage the tube!) they'll then slide out with a bit of effort. Lubricate the new ones before sliding back in and keep the buttons in line with the holes so they'll pop into place once in the right spot. I did an article for The Courier on the Herald ones, but it'll not be in print for a month or two yet. The horn (I think!) starts off purple then goes to brown, but please check before taking my word for it!

You do know what they say about a second marriage, it's the triumph of optimism over experience. Cue the old song: "I wish I was single again..." It works both ways; they refunded me £30-odd last year, for an item I hadn't bought. I tried to tell them, but they wouldn't listen and told me the case is now closed. Okay, then...

The cap should have a rubber seal all the way round, as in the photo; otherwise metal to metal will never seal.

Just one option will do me: good value, and fit for purpose.

... but when the same bearing from a Triumph supplier costs £16 or £17 do we trust them to supply a suitable, safe and well-made part? We do, of course. And when the bearing I bought for my TR7 from a trusted supplier fell apart on fitting, before the car even saw the road, I never went back to them for anything else, which is the best way to hit them.

Here's todays offering; reported not only to ActionFraud but also UK Police - the e-mail address might be of use to anyone else, forward the scam to them as it all helps as they can build up intelligence and maybe locate the scammers. The worrying part about this scam is that the Refund number quoted is my NI Electricity account number. NFIBPhishing@city-of-london.pnn.police.uk

I haven't searched but try Chic Doig. Are they the same as early Herald versions? One on eBay, Germany: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Herald-Bj-59-71-Tankgeber-Tankmesgerat-Fuel-Gauge-Sender-Unit/132817120094?hash=item1eec846b5e:g:GyAAAOSwo7ZbwEg8

I think I posted this somewhere else recently (on this forum) but I complained to two companies that their parts were wrong and they told me a) no-one else has ever complained before, but b) I was right, and they would correct their stock asap. Sometimes it's not the fault of the companies, as when they deal with a lot of different vehicles and hundreds of orders they can only assume, in light of no-one telling them any different, that all is in order. You don't have to rant and rave, just enlighten them, and in many cases I'm sure they'll do what they can. When they don't - re Revotec mentioned above - then you do have redress through the Sale of Goods (Distance Selling) Act, but I'm wondering if their reply was more along the lines of 'no point in returning it as we only have the same, so can you modify it?' - in which case I'd expect some kind of financial adjustment if not a partial or full refund. I bought two O-rings recently for a speedo drive and they were a third of the thickness of the old one, with the result that there's not a hope in the hot place of them sealing; I just reused the old ones. Did I complain? Wasn't worth the bother... so I'm as guilty as the rest. Re Pete and premium marques... well if I had the deep pockets to afford an Aston Martin I'd probably be able to shell out over the odds for a properly-made replacement part, but as I don't... well, there are dealers I go to every time, and some I only use as a last resort since no-one else has the part I require, and then of course when it arrives, it's rubbish... AND: as a just-this-minute update, I opened a packet of seals for type 14 calipers that I've had in my stock for about three years, and the piston-chamber seal is about 2mm longer than the old one, so if it fits at all, there's going to be a massive loop...

how accurate are the Arun ones? There's no photograph and I wouldn't want to find the correct dimension and thread on a head that's smaller than the original engine screw. The originals are quite flat, and quite large.