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Colin Lindsay

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Everything posted by Colin Lindsay

  1. Colin Lindsay
    Remember that the entire thing is dependant on the weakest link! What's the strap that the winch appears to be hanging from? I had a metal bracket made up a few years back (the benefits of having Engineers as in-laws) and it's a slight bit small for this beam in the new garage but still clamps tightly to the H-bar. I still worry about using ropes rather than chains around the block to hook to. You can see the size of the links in the older chain hoist I used to use; you need muscles like Arnie's to even lift it up to the clamp on the beam.
  2. Colin Lindsay
    Incidentally - after about another hour's wrestling with these - and I broke a g-clamp on them - I just suddenly wondered: why? Left them where they were, pressed off the bearing and replaced it onto the carrier, and replaced the rollpins. To use a good local phrase: it'll do.
  3. Colin Lindsay
    I was in all innocence referring to engines, and don't have any idea of what the term 'double entendre' means. It's not in my WSM.
  4. Colin Lindsay
    I've sorted the first part of the query within minutes of posting so had to edit the post again - the short bearing carrier in the photo is Spitfire, and the longer Herald. That explains that! However it's the arms I'm trying to identify. I need to replace one on a 1967 Herald with diaphragm clutch; the two sliding side dowels are seized solid so I'll have to use a spare. If the one with the flatter bearing carrier is Spitfire (in photo) then I have a choice of that one or a spare Herald version for coil clutch. I know coil clutches have a flat faced bearing and diaphragm clutches a curved bearing, but what other differences are there, particularly in the arms themselves? I'll be replacing the carrier and the bearing for a diaphragm version in any case, so it's just differences in the arms that may cause bother. Part numbers appear to be 207907 and 213032 for early and late arms respectively, plus 125374 and 139563 for the bearing carriers. Does anyone know what the exact differences are? I've compared like for like and can't see any differences at all.
  5. Colin Lindsay
    I'll bet he started off : "I'll just fit as type 9 gearbox and keep the rest original..." Ohhh that slippery slope's a killer.
  6. Colin Lindsay
    Lord, that's one frilly rim. I've dumped wheels that were better than that.
  7. Colin Lindsay
    I have two winches, a huge one that would raise the Titanic with massive chains, but when you want to lower it you must hold a small lever back and then rotate the handle against the weight; it can be fiddly especially as the girder it's on is about ten feet up. If you flick the lever and don't hold the handle it will just drop straight to the floor. The other is a lighter version I bought at Stoneleigh for about a tenner, but it's got an internal brake, and you must pull the chain in the opposite direction to lower. It can be nerve wracking sometimes; when I lifted the Herald engine and gearbox out of the car last week and it was suspended eight feet off the ground, it wouldn't lower, only raise, and therefore kept getting higher, and higher...... you really do have to yank on the chain and then it comes free, and you can lower it. Last Herald engine I worked on - prior to the current one - I bolted the backplate to the stand, but as I was using an alloy replacement I wasn't worried about distortion.
  8. Colin Lindsay
    Might be a false economy, the first time you come to a junction on a steep hill and it snaps. Been there.... It's amazing how difficult is is to drive a car with no handbrake! I'd buy a new one, grease it well before fitting, and it'll slide through the brackets eventually. Just persevere. It's fiddly but one less thing to worry about.
  9. Colin Lindsay
    I'm convinced I can smell diesel fumes from my latest purchase; every so often I get a smoky whiff from somewhere but every passenger that's been in it claims they can't smell anything. Maybe my nose is just being paranoid.
  10. Colin Lindsay
    Easily done if the piston is oversize and tight in the bore. I've a block to get bored later today, no idea what size we'll end up but I'll just stick to assembly lube or engine oil.
  11. Colin Lindsay
    Yes, that's one thing that nobody ever explains. I attached the first engine I ever worked on with long pieces of threaded rod and a nut on the end over a HUGE washer... it didn't fall off but I'm sure it looked very amateurish.
  12. Colin Lindsay
    Yep, down the C-post into the cluster on the inside of the passenger side wing.
  13. Colin Lindsay
    Ok consider my thoughts from now on trained fore and aft.
  14. Colin Lindsay
    My uncle was a human cannonball. Not very good, either. He got fired.
  15. Colin Lindsay
    Try aiming the gun, the shell usually follows in the same direction...
  16. Colin Lindsay
    If you carry out a topic search for 'wheels' you'll find lots of posts on the subject about wheel sizes, fitting and problems with clearance. There are too many to link to here but you'll find all sorts of suggestions and recommendations. Try this one as an example, but there are quite a few recommendations throughout the forum from members who've tried and tested the setup. Hope it helps!
  17. Colin Lindsay
    The thread's okay Roger, in fact it seems to have tapped out the remains of the stud as well as the original block drilling. It looks slightly 'coned' due to the drilling but it's micro-millimetres if anything. I've never seen a stud hold fast like this one - you can see all the drilled swarf round about in my top photo. It was solid, and even the remains would not drop off the block when fully drilled. I've tried a replacement and once it screws in as far as the collar it looks as good as original, but as usual I'm being mildly paranoid so going for belt-n-braces approach.
  18. Colin Lindsay
    Thanks for the suggestions team, it doesn't wobble at all and is quite a tight fit but I'm still worried about potential seeping. I don't want to have to take the timing cover off again and disturb anything. Loctite I have - the permanent version should work ok?
  19. Colin Lindsay

    oil filter

    Colin Lindsay replied to Kelv T's topic in Engine

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Automotive-5-8-24-to-3-4NPT-Threaded-Oil-Filter-Adapter-Black/253565616969?hash=item3b09b04349:g:nlgAAOSwa3lb5-kC I've found these on eBay - in fact lots of them from China - and I presume they screw down over the existing oil filter screw to enlarge it from 5/8 to 13/60, 3/4 or the like. I'm wondering if the actual nut part was ground off, or ground down to fit the space at the face of the oil filter, would they work as a filter adaptor? Thoughts?
  20. Colin Lindsay
    This is a scenario I'm going to try to pre-empt by asking in advance - I had a stud broke off in the engine block at the weekend, the one that holds the timing cover on and goes right through into the water jacket round the block. I had to drill it right out - no give at all, even the last millimeter of stud held firm. I've retapped the hole but I'm concerned that there is a slight unevenness around the new stud I've tried in it, so am wondering what anyone recommends to seal it before the coolant starts to escape when the engine runs up to full heat? It may seal tightly enough on it's one once fully tightened but it may also weep later, so I'd like to treat it in advance. I've got JB Weld and Araldite and such like but I'm wondering is there any other sealing product that members would recommend whereby I can just dip the stud in, screw it in, and forget about it? (No intention of removing it again in the near future!)
  21. Colin Lindsay
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Din-Car-Radio-Stereo-Head-Unit-Player-MP3-USB-AUX-IN-FM-In-dash-Radio-Player/123284220836?fits=Car+Make%3ASmart&hash=item1cb44feba4:g:WQ4AAOSwq75bYVHp https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Classical-Retro-Style-Bluetooth-Car-Stereo-Head-Units-Car-Radio-USB-SD-UK-Sale/283041357860?hash=item41e6946024:g:sfQAAOSwKAJbNHIw The top one is the one I've bought a few of; the lower one is quite highly recommended through the forum as well. When it comes to fitting or programming, ask; sometimes the instructions need translated slightly..
  22. Colin Lindsay
    Clive is correct - it's designed that way - the bottle needs to be half full with the end of the overflow pipe covered; as the water expands it's pushed out into the bottle, but as it cools it's drawn back in. If you want, you can mark the level on the bottle, and this will help to indicate if there's a problem ie if it fills without going down again afterwards, or is constantly empty, and so on.
  23. Colin Lindsay

    oil filter

    Colin Lindsay replied to Kelv T's topic in Engine

    These have an anti-drain valve - I managed to find some online: https://www.sportscarsupplies.com/oil-filter-spitfire-1300-1500-dolomite-herald-gfe150-390-p.asp
  24. Colin Lindsay

    oil filter

    Colin Lindsay replied to Kelv T's topic in Engine

    I've always used the standard GFE 150 on my Herald, bought a lot of them back in the day so have a few on the shelf, and never had any problems.
  25. Colin Lindsay
    Do you want original, or modern-looking, or modern reproduction old-style? Period types such as the photo are available but usually pricey, but if you don't mind a non-specific Motorola or the like there are plenty for sale online. You can get modern reproductions which look period but have electronic circuitry and which can be used for USB or FM radio ...and if you're going for retro-look but don't mind a not-too-close match there are plenty of modern versions on the go - there's a thread about here somewhere showing various models available for around a tenner. I've got quite fond of the one pictured below as they're cheap, sound excellent, and take both phone or usb.
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