Colin Lindsay

That's an interesting point, Pete - if you had asked me, I'd have stated that the 1200 bonnet is higher, as it runs straight with less fall to the front edge, whereas the 13/60 bonnet dips downwards at the front and appears lower at the front edge and especially between the wings. With Vitesse and 13/60 tops being the same it's obvious both will take the 6 cylinder engine but I'd have sworn the 1200 was higher still. You live and learn every day!

There's a couple of threads running on this very topic. We may need to create a section for stickies otherwise we'll just end up debating Dinitrol versus Bilt Hamber versus Waxoyl all over again, and we'll get the same preferences and opinions all over again.

I noticed that from your photo, and even the exploded diagram seems to show a rounded end! Mine is straight-cut at one end, so were there different versions depending on models? The Vitesse bodytub I'm currently working on has one rivet closest to the filler and a hole at the rear, as Pete says further up. I don't think Heralds ever had them, but I've had this one for many years and got it in a job lot of Herald parts that came with a car, so have always assumed it was Triumph-related.

Richard - thanks a lot for all your hard work; I'll follow those up over a coffee later. Roger - no idea why it broke; the starter wouldn't turn so I stripped it down and found that part sheared. It could probably be welded but if a replacement is cheap enough it will save a lot of bother.

"for form read firm" I know what he means!! If the windows are only opaque, have you tried cleaning them with a suitable polish, such as the Renovo plastic window polish?

The NOS one I have has two long pins for securing with a star clip or similar. Both the same size of pin. They're covered in blue rubber which is either something that needs removed before fitting, or else helps it grip without damaging the paintwork.

On the basis of this thread drift I dug out my old Technics turntable, cost not a lot back in the day but was to play things I couldn't get anywhere else. It rumbled very badly, the rumbling was going right through the record and needle and was incredibly loud through the speakers. I was going to dump it until I checked prevailing prices - they're now worth three times what I paid for mine twenty years ago - some retailers are asking well over £300. After a stripdown where I improved the insulation of the motor there was no improvement, until I forked out a whole £7 on a new belt. Result!! No rumble and totally silent operation, so I'm well pleased. Now. Where were we? HT leads?

All much the same unless you can get a NOS kit from way back. In this photo of one of my older kits that I used recently, the metal cup washer to the top left was supplied in plastic in a more recent kit.

Indeed they are - Long Cookstown, as the song goes. I might give them a call. New starters are from about £60 upwards, just in case it's not cost-effective to have this one repaired or source the part myself. Thanks Richard.

That was just the head, Dave, the pistons were ok with no damage at all but the valves looked like that, very sooty and covered in carbon. I'm working on another one at present with corresponding piston damage - see photo - but the convertible engine seems to have escaped unscathed. This engine (below) has two good pistons (front pair) and two like the photo (both rear), which I'm assuming are scrap. If you're following this thread - yes, I've been sidetracked again - now working on the TR7 plus another 1200 and the poor convertible has been shelved yet again until I get some room to work on it. There always seems to be something more exciting - in this latest case, not only another 1200, but the hardtop I bought off a friend last year. This was an old Smith & Deakins hardtop which was full of cracks, crazing and old rubber seals, and the windows had all seen better days. A good cleanup, fresh coat of gel over fibreglass repairs, and it's turned out very well. The windows are still perspex as I can't replicate the bend of the rear window in glass, but at least now you can see through them... All I need to do now is to finish the seals, fit a nice headlining, and finish the 1200 I'm going to put it on.

My 1200 Estate starter has broken a small metal ring which goes around the central windings. It seems a shame to buy a complete unit for just this little bit - does anyone have the contact details for a supplier who sells Lucas components like this part?

That colour scheme grew on me; the more I looked at it, the more I decided it was ok. I've seen that combination before on early cars but can't confirm if it's original or not; I'd guess that with the provenance of this car it probably is original.

Wonder why they've sold it twice since 2015? Maybe too good for everyday use?

I can make no judgement other than to say a number of years ago I bought three items from them as separate transactions; each came out of the box, and each went straight to the skip as beyond use or repair. I haven't dealt with them since.

It would need to be a very small amount! Is it meant to pivot too, or is it fixed in the outer while the inner pivots round it? I take it that the end isn't fit for flaring, to prevent it from coming out?

Thanks Casper and Pete. I was thinking this was a more hi-end carb that would improve the Herald's running (eventually!) and can replace jets etc with OE Herald versions; I was also waiting for the message that started "why?" It may turn out to be an unnecessary or pointless fitment but it's there... and I'm wondering... you know how it goes. I've just read a bit about the Econostat and it's designed to allow the carb to run on less fuel but still retain performance... the main jet in many applications had to be quite large for top-end driving and therefore was over-large for lower speeds, so this allows for a smaller and more efficient main jet, reducing low speed richness but maintaining performance when the speed increases. You can also buy jets for use between 6000 and 10,000 feet, and above 10000 feet, where the fuel mixture would be affected by altitude. At least, you could if they were still available.

I'm used to the standard BP30 PSEI Solex carb for the Herald 1200 but they're getting rarer than they used to be and certainly more expensive, and I like to have the odd one as a spare just in case. I recently opened a box of spare parts and found a complete carb, but with differences to the Herald variety. I think from a check on the Net that it's a BP30 PSEI-6. Both this and a confirmed Herald model have the same size manifold flange, and the same size of intake, so I'm assuming it would fit a Herald if necessary, but there is one large difference to one side, this triangular protrusion that is missing from the Herald version. All other attachments, levers and rods are the same. Does anyone know the subtle differences - is it a larger carb, improved, better cold starting, more refined, or is it totally unsuitable for a Herald? I know the Herald version is adequate but basic, so is there any benefit in using something like this at all? Herald carb is to the right in top photo, and lower in the other.

Pete's right in that it was not fitted to the later Spitfires, but Heralds use more or less the same light unit and the rubber seal protects the bodywork. It's more visible here on the Herald, as opposed to the under-bumper Spitfire lights, but you see very little of it once it's fitted; it's all in behind the light unit with only the black rim showing. You could get away with them on the Spitfire if you wanted to fit them as they'd not be as obvious.

Give it another chance. Mine's working well, although the rear speakers are lying free as the entire rear end has been removed so the sound may not be as good as it will be once the speakers are back in the side trims. For that sort of price you can salt it away in a drawer for when the other one gives up.

It's the two to the left I was referring to; I'm assuming that the one to the right with the shiny metal where the paint has been removed is where the black surround you can see to the right has been screwed off from.

There's a big rubber seal goes right round the outer edge. Part number 122229. It fits inside the rear of the body so that the ring of the chrome outer rests on it, and not on the paint.

They look to be in the same place as clamps for a soft top would be.

Ebay is full of them and most don't require any software to work, or will work as an additional camera with whatever software you use for your built-in camera. Mine has a 5m lead and leds round the 10mm camera, and cost about £5. For about £24 you can get versions with their own screen and viewer so you don't need additional software.

Attach it to the oil filter; that way all of the metal debris ends up inside the filter and can be thrown away when it's changed.

If that date is correct then the last post to that page was September 29th, and I'm assuming since it doesn't have any year after it that it's the current year. That is definitely good news. I miss Bill and Karen at shows; they have some great stuff for Herald owners. This is presumably the bit you need; it's priced at £35. The cowl has the arc - absent in estates - but the seal is the same. That seal has appeared on eBay too: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-numberplate-lamp-gasket-seal-fits-Herald-Estate-and-all-Vitesse/303304550994?hash=item469e5c2a52:g:UvkAAOSwxPddkSnf