Colin Lindsay

That's a very personal question. I'll let him answer that if he will, but his private life is his own business...

If it takes a couple of pumps then something is moving further than it should; doubt if it's a servo issue unless you're losing fluid and getting white smoke from the exhaust every time you brake... first port of call, assuming you've bled the system fully, are the rear shoes - check the adjustment. I have this to do on my GT6 having noticed this morning that it takes two pumps to get good pressure and I just know, without looking at anything else, that I haven't adjusted the rear shoes fully. Of course, I'll bleed it again, just to be sure...

Oops. Big Brother is watching. We're in a dictatorship now, guys...

Is THAT what that's for? Never knew that! Just replaced an indicator stalk so had it all to remove then replace, and i just put it back as found without really worrying as to why exactly it was there.

I can't even spell prorograte or whatever.

I'm at the other end of the scale - for decades now some of my Triumphs have not left the garage, thereby saving the planet, not to mention petrol.

Thank goodness as I was just about to say: you've done it now! The inner wheel arch, from photos I've found on suppliers' websites, has a lip that sits flush with the rear strengthener. This to me says that it's flat in line with the inner panel. From this pic of an on-going restoration it looks like the outer arch is the same and just butts up against the other side of the inner wing. The bodywork experts will be along soon to advise as to what exactly you need to trim or keep but hopefully this gives you some idea of the layout and the replacement panels.

That's the front stop in our house, the back stop is the car behind. Why else do they call them 'bumpers'?

I hope you realise that everyone who takes part in the poll is ill-advised and doesn't realise what they're really polling about.

Oh God I can see where this is going...

Sad indeed, I was thinking of him just the other day and wondering how he was. I can't be there to see him off but I'll be thinking of him.

Plastikote is not quite the same... This is the closest I could find to the old Baseball boot cleaner that you applied through a circular sponge top... I still remember the smell of it. Is there a UK equivalent? https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Wholesale-Shoe-Cleaner-White-Shoe-White_50020367718.html

It's the correct profile alright, but the measurements mean nothing to me... I could tell you if it was in front of me!

This club is getting more and more like HM Gov. We're having polls about whether or not to have polls, or whether or not we can actually poll in polls, but haven't got to the stage of actually having a poll about anything important. It's a bit like trousers, they did away with fly buttons, now it's just swipe down to open and swipe up to close...

None of the workshop manuals or other reference books mention any direction of fitting, which would be important if any kind of bend was meant to be there, otherwise fitting it incorrectly is bound to have an adverse effect on handling. Anyone selling new items - Jigsaw Racing for one - show a completely flat bar.

Not on the GT6 anyway, and I doubt even for the USA market. By the time the last GT6 rolled off the line we were looking at the doomsday scenario of petrol running out!

The number plate system over here in Northern Ireland allows for four numbers in a row, so we can have sequences such as 1360 or 1200. I know a local member has 1360 on his Herald, though personally I never yet had a Herald on which I'd want to replace the original number with *** 1200. The original VRM is part of the car after sixty years or so.

Yes, same and with the same c-section chrome finisher that drives everyone up the walls when trying to fit it..

So: what way must it face, in order not to foul? I'll have this to do in the near future so need to know before.... you guessed it.

Mine arrived yesterday; took about a week. First impressions are that because of the silver front moulding they're not as solid as the all-black version, but it's closer in looks to the old Motorola version that i'm replacing in the Herald. Is yours still behaving?

Thanks Doug - I'll update the filing system in the brain now! I think some cars suit it, and other's don't (the black and white plates) - here's my 948 Coupe with yellow plates and I preferred them.

Yep it's normal. I photographed two when I replaced my incorrect GT6 rear spring - which is the faded one on the right from a late Spitfire - with a correct GT6 Mk3 version, on the left.

T-Cut is being sold in the original-type tin these days, not that horrible plastic container. Looks nice and retro.

HM Gov needs to change the regulation book then, according to their website it was updated in August 2019 and still claims the following: Leaflet INF104 on the Gov.UK website.

Avoid Hammerite! It will chip far too easily. Do you want it body colour, or maybe a neutral colour such as black? The top coat is the icing on the cake, it's the preparation and the undercoats that will make it last. A good quality primer, maybe over etch primer, and stonechip on any of the leading edges should leave it ready for colouring. If you can get a good anti-rust liquid - I use Jenolite or if your Hydrate 80 does the same job - get it inside the main rails through any of the holes for brake or fuel pipes etc and turn the chassis so that it runs over as many of the internal surfaces as you can get it over. That will initially kill the rust, then after painting fill it with Waxoyl or Dinitrol to keep the moisture off the metal. It'll last for years then.