Colin Lindsay

43 12 is for the earlier cars, where the coil pack is square, later cars have them all in a line… hence the photo of the one I bought. No-one seems to list the lead order where they exit the coil pack. Clios use the ‘waste spark’ system where the plugs spark twice per cycle instead of once; on the exhaust stroke it makes no difference, but it means they can be 180 degrees out and still work…. unlike Triumphs. It’s now revving very high when started with the orange coil light showing, that wasn’t before… I think I’ve REALLY broken it this time.

Only slightly Triumph-related, this one! I’ve been using a 2001 Renault Clio 1.2 16v for the last week after a friend reported a slight rhythmic shudder as it drove; last Thursday it suddenly developed a heavy shudder, loss of power at lower revs, and a flashing engine management light. I gave it the once over and was able to see gas puffing out around one of the spark plugs. After buying what appeared to be an inordinate amount of specialised tools - long thin plug wrench, torx bits, hex sockets, all sizes that none of my kits have, I was able to remove the whole manifold assembly and gain access to a few parts that required cleaning; plugs out and replaced and a new ignition coil pack and leads. Started up and the shuddering is still there, if not worse. The entire car vibrates at idle. It has all the symptoms of being a cylinder down, but also has the symptoms of being out of firing order. On turning the key there seems to be slight resistance, then it fires and at higher revs, say over 2000 rpm runs as normal. The errant plug - No 4 - was loose and has now been replaced, and the replacement tightened as normal. Not one web forum I’ve been on has told me how to read the ignition lead sequence from the coil pack end - they’re all in a row and unnumbered. Before I start on compression tests or suspecting a faulty replacement coil pack, does anyone know how to tell which lead is which? Firing order is 1 3 4 2 taken from the flywheel end, but in what order do the ignition leads leave the coil pack? They’re all the same length so no help there. Photo of coil pack attached - there are no numbers anywhere to show any order. I fitted them using the old pack as a guide, which had different lead lengths depending on the cylinder they went to, but there may be a variation I can’t find. Any ideas?

I hope he buys a spellchecker... it’s “amasing!!"

Chic can make any panel as required, he once pointed this out to me when I mentioned in a Courier article that some of the floor pans were no longer available. Many aren’t pre-made or kept in stock but any section can be remade to order.

I know that ‘name and shame’ sections of forums have been tried before, with all sorts of legal problems… how do we know that a buyer didn’t incorrectly fit a part, or use incorrect tooIs? Is he a trained mechanic or technician? It’s a legal minefield, any solicitor can have a field day with it, and one which the TSSC will no doubt be eager to avoid. I know we all mean well in trying to help others avoid pitfalls, but publicly naming a supplier on an Internet forum and making allegations can incur enormous legal costs as well as hefty punishments… so be careful!

I always reckoned that with things as tight as they were in pricing and costs, if the valences weren’t required, they’d have been removed by Triumph. Consequently there had to be a reason for their continuing fitment - probably keeping dirt off the engine and improving airflow. As for K&Ns… everyone upgrades when they first buy, then after a few years they ditch them and go back to standard… my first Spitty got oil cooler and thermostat, electric fan, uprated springs, K&N filters, additional dials.. then they all came out again when I realised they were for show - because everyone else was doing it - and didn’t make one hoot of difference to the car’s performance or longevity.

As John says a blunt paint scraper is better than a razor scraper. Keep a petrol-soaked rag handy to wipe the debris out of the bores. A soft kitchen scourer - not metal - soaked in oil also cleans them well.

Swing spring works wonders and is the simplest mod to make; although having said that I converted my Mk1 many years ago not because of any wayward handling, but because everyone seemed to say I should. I never found any problems with it but then on roads with a 70 mph speed limit maybe I just never tested it to the extremes. Try to get the proper rear spring; a Spitfire one I used originally bottomed out all the time until I fitted a genuine late Mk3 version which has been superb ever since.

I don’t know about a cheap rebuild but H&H Distributor Solutions will rebuild one as new. There are some on eBay, one at present for about £25, might be better than your current one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Vitesse-GT6-distributor-/331626412173?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276

I bought one of the stainless adjustable ones (had a bit of spare cash, once!) and was really aggrieved to find they’re just fence-wire tighteners! They work well on the alternator though….

….and I’ll wave it goodbye. Maybe they’ll add stocks and shares, and local airport timetables too. I’ll just stay here and post the occasional message.

Buy a late Spitfire version; it forks to both engine block, bodywork and battery.

I gave up on FJ a few years back after finding a local company who insured for agreed value for almost a third of the FJ price. I compared both policies - the expired FJ one and the new one - and found very little difference in what they offered, including extras.

Front of the box should remove easily; I did this on my MK1 many years ago. The empty box is handy for spare keys or bulbs.

Been like that for ages, I have to have business use to go to or from my work - and I don’t even run the place. It’s been like that for more than a few years now.

It’s happened to me once in a Herald, trying to get home after a show without having to stop at a petrol station; as usual the station was closer to the show than home so one mile from home the Herald conked out. Thankfully all I had to do was turn the reserve tap and drive the remaining. Without it I’d have been stuck. So: pointless until we need it, but we’re all human and yes I was lazy… but it still saved me a long walk. I’ll try not to use it too often but it’s nice to know it’s there for emergencies.

Sorry for the late reply, Aidan - can you post a pic of yours?

Yes, everything available and you can upgrade connectors to take more modern components e.g. bulbs. I’ve replaced single wires that were burnt out so an entire loom should be the same principle.

I converted my 1200 using the Stromberg from a 13/60 and a Speedograph manifold adaptor. The only adaptation required was an elongated bracket for the choke cable and lever. It ran very well up on the standard 6J needle and chrome pancake filter until the car was dismantled for a short / fast restoration. 7 years ago. It’s still in bits.

Originality is always more desirable to some; to others a good paint job is more important (unless it’s a really yucky shade!). Honeysuckle isn’t the worst and it suits that particular car. I’d keep it original, but as always it’s up to your own choice as owner. Whatever floats your boat!

Have you considered a Stromberg with manifold adaptor? A little bit of adaptation to fit the choke cable but simple enough and a good carb.

He’s changed the listing from Triumph Herald brake calipers to Ford Granada / Sierra calipers. Makes more sense now… but I was wondering if someone had manufactured uprated brakes for the Herald and not told the rest of us…

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Herald-Callipers-/111727251616?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276 Either the seller has it wrong, or there are entire new possibilities for Herald brakes on the market. Has someone found single piston versions that fit?

As Pete says any petrol-resistant pipe of the correct diameter will do; mine are original but very brittle so I’ll have to get some myself. I have some old ones that are off an Estate so if yours are still fitted and you need measurements let me know.

Works for me!!