Anglefire

Got some de-ionsided water from Tesco whilst I was passing - its not carplan, but their own - but is only a £1 for 2.5ltr. Now just got to wait for the antifreeze to arrive - and it to stop raining!

I used tap water last time (Our water is soft here) - but for a couple of quid, I think I will just get 5ltrs from Tesco. Think the engine holds about 5ltrs (I think its 4.75 with the larger radiator?) so 1/2 a bottle of coolant and a bottle of Tesco's finest (Actually its CarPlan!) should see it about 50/50 and leave me with a spare bottle of water - which I could then add the the remaining coolant for top up (Which should last for years - well a couple when the coolant needs changing again by time!)

I sort of assumed that Clive, but wasn't 100% sure! I guess it's just the method of removing said impurities - one by boiling and the other by (filtering?) and de-ionisation - the latter is common in industrial applications as its a cold process

I had a P6 that was off the road pre sorn. When I came to sell it (sadly but just wasn’t being used - had it about 20years I think and didn’t do much more than a couple of thousand miles. ) I just declared it sorn - so just think you either declare it sorn or tax it. Not a particular problem I don’t think. oh and welcome. ‘‘Tis a nice friendly place to be.

Quick question. What is the difference between de-ionised and distilled water? i can find the former in Tesco for £1 for 2.5ltrs but can’t find the latter (online).

So its warm and dry enough to be in a short sleeved shirt, but not for your hands. Odd.

I’m watching them - not that I need them. But since when has need come into it?

Is that the road into Italy from Austria ? If it is, I’ve been on it I think - many years ago though.

I would have thought the clue was in the title. And that you started it

Well, I've ordered it now! Funny, I did a search around the net, and some bottles don't mention being concentrate - but I think they all are if you ready the data sheet! I could have got it from Amazon by tomorrow - but was a couple of quid more - and I'm not that desperate!

Yeah I know now - but not mentioned on the bottle anywhere And the promotion code SAVE33 doesn't apply to it - MID40 does - and saves 40p Might order the Granville stuff - its a couple of quid cheaper

Think I might have been a total cock! Needed some antifreeze for the engine - so popped into my local Halfords and spent some time debating pre-mix and concentrate and went for the concentrate as I was filling from empty, so logically use the required quantity and top up with water. Simples. No problem so far. Then it was choice of AF - I know I don't want OAT so that was well over half the shelf sorted - Halfords own brand - which is advertised as conventional Silicate based or Comma G40. Check the labels and the G40 is Ethylene glycol based antifreeze - and has a blue label rather than the red or pink of the rest - doesn't say anywhere OAT. Puts it in yesterday having noticed that it was pink - but after double checking, its not got OAT on it went ahead and put it in. It does (looking again this morning, have silicates written in the smaller text on the back. - and having checked the Comma website is says it is OAT So, whats the collective opinion - drop it out, flush and put some blue in? In which case which one? 4life from the club shop or Bluecol from wherever? I wouldn't mind but I even commented on another post on here about a) the colour and b ) the OAT

Is it bad that I quite like that ?

I would also consider changing the pipe that runs from the pump (I'm pretty sure it does ) under the carbs and to the heater effectively - or at least change the olive! In this diagram here https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500-cooling-system-pipes-twin-carbs Part number 212935S

Not sure if this will work. And excuse the mess

It runs ? Took a bit more time than I planned because it was a pig getting the bottom starter bolt in. Given that the car is on the ground and in the garage so can only just get in that side of the car. (It’s snowing so wasn’t taking the car outside. ) and id forgotten to connect the engine earth up when I fitted the engine bolts - so had to fit that. I cranked it with no plugs in and the oil light didn’t go out - but it wasn’t spinning very fast - so decided to go for broke - fitted all the plugs and tried again- especially as the battery seemed to be dying ? This time the oil light did go out - almost straight away so must have been very close before. But wouldn’t start. Had a look back in the engine bay and found the centre lead just about fallen out - touched it and it did fall out. So fitted that and with a bit more choke started up nicely with the oil light out straight away again. Sounded nice idling at just under 900rpm - so a little low for cold starting. Exhaust sounds nice too. Not noisy but a nice sound. Have made a little recording - and it sounds a little more tappetty than it does in the flesh - I’ll try and post it later. Given that I’ve not checked the carbs more than a cursory glance and not adjusted them at all, I’m pretty chuffed that I didn’t have more trouble. Couple of water leaks to sort - hopefully just a case of tightening the clips.

Despite the snow here today, I’ve got the new frame in and the rad all bolted in. Just got to get some water in the engine now and set the static timing up and see if it will start.

Not all manufacturers allow more than what they are legally required to expose to normal OBD readers. Land Rover for example. But you can get dedicated ones that allow a lot of the configuration to be changed to add features that weren’t specified at new. I had one for my old Disco3 and although it cost around £450 - it saved me loads in both diagnostic time and being able to carry out maintenance functions as well as a bit of coding to add later instrument pack firmware. And I sold it on for about £350.

Well, tonight I decided to have a quick play tonight and checked the frame - and it’s spot on. so I’ve painted it in black CIO. Looks good. And had another look at the dizzy - and worked out why it won’t go in. Or wouldn’t go in. The pump drive was slightly out of alignment and once I got that right, it went in with no issue.

I’ve no experience of the ethanol issue - or I don’t think I am as I’ve put on new proper fuel lines around the pump and carbs. I understand that if you fit an electric pump, it must have an automatic cut off switch in the event of an accident.

Its arrived - ruddy big box, which when I started to open it had other boxes (as packing) in talking about christmas stuff, so wasn't sure it was the frame until it was fully opened Just got to make 100% sure it will fit then will paint it as it is just really in a primer. Then I can fit it and fill it with water and get the dizzy in!

And now showing as notify when they become available!

My garage is attached to the house and is reasonably well ventilated - it also has the boiler and hot water cylinder in the corner (Its a funny shaped space!) and I do have a temperature sensor in their too - its not gone below 6.4'C this year and didn't go below 6.5'C all of last year (27th Jan at 5am as it happens ) I must fit a humidity sensor some time and work out the dewpoint. One day!

That's true - but I was paying carriage and the dreaded anyway - so it works out at about £30. Still a lot less effort than repairing and repainting the one I have - though I will probably give it a coat of buzzweld CIO before I fit it just to give it some protection. With luck will be with me tomorrow. So a job for the weekend.

They have indeed