Anglefire

Thanks Roger, No I have the two side defectors - its the frame the wide and narrow rad fits onto - part number TKC1761 - its less than £20 so didn't think worth the time and effort to sort the old one out. Good news on the exhaust - this one came from Rimmers originally and has the middle through box too.

Seems the radiator frame is not going to arrive for an indeterminate time - the manufacturer is experiencing problems. Looks like I might well be cleaning up and painting the old one. Which is a bit of a bugger as its not in great shape - good enough probably for the time being I guess. Still got to fit the dizzy pedestal - but had no time the last few days and its cold!

I know of Dim-dip - and if it had been used by everyone properly it would have been a great idea - but of course that never happened so it was a failure! As for dimming rear lights, that is a new one on me and not come across it or heard about it before - so as they say, everyday is a school day

I've spent a couple of hours in the garage this morning. Not touched the exhaust though - I'll see how that goes when I get it back on the road - the bolts/straps on the back boxes are probably 1 3/4" apart? With the hanger from the boot floor probably another 1-1 1/2" - the exhaust does "look" to be all higher than the lowest point on the chassis though. I've loosely fitted the old rad frame (ie bolts in but not tight) and fitted the new rad and fitted the final two hoses to the rad. Fitted the new fuel pump. Reconnected the fuel lines. Fitted the starter cables (Mines a pre-engaged starter so has 2 wires ) Filled it with oil. Made a "spade" drive from a bit of bar I "borrowed" from my Dad - span up the oil pump (Backwards on the drill ) and that developed a nice amount of pressure - you could feel it as it pressurised the system - could also hear the oil coming out of various places - no obvious oil in the cam - but it was very oily in there from the filling process! I don't think I will do another drill run before starting - as I've taken a good half an hour to get the dizzy in - which I still haven't achieved I can't get the pedestal back in again - the dizzy drive is lined up perfectly and in good mesh - and the right orientation to get the rota arm to line up in the usual place. It looks like the hole it too small for it - which it can't be as it came out! Not sure the best way of getting it back in - heat on the block was one thought? Or the pedestal in the freezer? So I've given up for today - was getting a bit cold and a bacon butty was offered

Thanks Clive - there is a hanger off the diff plate - you can see it in the second picture. I thought the exhaust was about as high as it could go and give some clearance to the chassis - but I'm not sure how much is needed there? Might have an inch gap?

Still not got the radiator frame - still on back order so I popped to David Manners this morning and picked up everything else I ordered (Like nuts and bolts and fuel pump and am planning to get back in the garage and see if I can't use the old one temporarily and get it all back together and running at least to test it works!

Yep - but it does get back dated to Jan 1st as far as I can see - slightly annoyed with myself that I didn't get 12months tax last time as I assumed from Jan 1 mine would be exempt. Which reminds me I must re-tax it!

Gordon, I'm in the same boat, except mine was registered in August 1977. From what I can gather so far, they (DVLA) will update the forms in April to move the historic date to 1977 from 1976 which is currently the case. You then can get the tax back from the date the car became exempt, which would be 1 Jan this year for mine - yours may have been built in 1976 - but no guarantee unless you get the Heritage certificate as proof one way or another. DVLA will assume your case was built in the previous year upto about the 6th Jan of the following year - which yours isn't.

I bought a set too - they are great for me as I have to do a lot of work on the drive as my garage isn't big enough to properly work on it - so I put them down - either one or two loose, or join more together to make a bigger mat - I can then lie on it and keep warmer and stop bits off the drive poking in my knees etc.

Thanks - I've added them to my short cuts folder

Thats a very good question - probably green

Based on the information I could read (was very small text on my iPhone and wouldn’t zoom ) no it’s different in that sneak currents are caused by bad earths so the electric finds a different path. But having said that it is very similar in that you feed something else by the back feed. For example. If you were to wire a feed from the washer switch to the wipers so that the wipers start when you wash (desirable) it could also cause the washer to wash when you turn on the wipers (not desirable ). As cars are dc, then it could be solved with a diode so that the feed only goes one way. But I prefer relays as you can see them working. ?

I would add a relay to create electrical isolation and avoid feedbacks - might be overkill and with a good look at the wiring diagrams might be avoidable, but depends how good you are at reading them and thinking about all the possible scenarios.

Nah, duct tape would have sorted that for years to come

Worked for me - not sure how many I'll look at - but for £4 it is a bargain.

I'll be there with camera in hand - I'll not be marshalling! Not been to Mallory park for ages - 2009 I think - this one was taken in 2008

They look very good - but I would be concerned (perhaps unjustified!) that you are relying on a screw thread to keep the ramp up and off the person under the car - I wouldn't go under a car just on a jack, so why is this different (Apart from a jack can slip sideways which these won't)? I am also perhaps coloured by the Land Rover Jack supplied with the Land Rover Discovery I had that have been known to collapse - even on first use. I actually only used mine once even though it worked ok when I used it to change a tyre off road.

I suggested just bypassing the ballast so that it would be simple to get points reinstalled quickly if needed - cos its bound to fail when you are in the middle of nowhere and its peeing down. Though you would have to change the coil too if its a 1.5Ohm job otherwise the points won't last long!

I've put a note in my diary for all the UK ones - not saying I'll get to them, but if they ain't in I can't go (Cos I'll forget more than anything else!)

the Easy way would be to just bridge the pink ballast wire from the switch to the coil - would make switching back to a ballasted system very simple. How easy that is depends on how the junction of the ballast wire to the white switches supply from the switch is created. If it’s a bullet connector, then it could be swapped out for a dual one and the ballast bridged over to the coil spade connector with a double spade.

Some pictures of the current install and the wiring diagram could be useful - if no one else has experience of this, I would hope I could help as I am a controls engineer by trade and often have to work out how old stuff works when its been modified by others in the past!

Nope 2017 is still hanging on i there ?

I have them too. Must bag up and more importantly mark what my many bags are for. I have all the bolts etc to replace the rear shockers. In fact I think I bought them twice.

I think every time I've ordered something for mine, I've found something else I should have ordered at the same time! Either a part for the job I'm doing, or something I've spotted or thought about on the way! Or is it just me?

My youngest probably!