Anglefire

Seems odd to have to go to the states for what is a comparatively simple item. I’m sure I could get some made given a drawing with the right dimensions- which might be the issue - so the us option might be easier £5 or so is bugger all in the scheme of things !

Bit of a holey thread resurection! But I noticed that now my car has been run a few times, the oil light is taking a second or so to go out and I get a little bottom end rattle - so was thinking of changing the filter for a better non-return one and get an adapter - is this what I need? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Automotive-Oil-Filter-Threaded-Adapter-5-8-24-to-3-4-16-Black-Anodized-Aluminum-/382289528196

As i also said to Roger, I can't see what spring is fitted - and I also found the 90' connector to the dizzy was not a good seal to the thin plastic vacuum pipe and sucking on it did nothing to the timing - I replaced it with one off the old engine which was fairly new and it now does move the plate in the dizzy. That's not going to help acceleration!

As I've just messaged Roger, I have ABT - though I've just looked and that is standard for an early 1500 - and I thought my engine was a later one but basing the engine number on the dates on this site http://www.spitbits.com/1500/index.html then it suggests a 1976/77 engine and potentially carbs?

Thanks Clive - I'll have a look and see what's fitted - I was going to look now - but saw the time - and I think something on the Tv (Vera - but recorded so we can skip the ads!) - so I'll have a look in the morning. Won't take long I don't have K&N's fitted - I don't think the ones on the engine when I had it are very good so I've gone back to standard. But I do have a road cam, tuned exhaust and flowed head. So could be either AAT. AAM or AAB.

They are closed until 8th Feb

Thanks Richard, I'll have a look - floats - very good question - I've not touched these carbs apart from balancing them and adjusting the idle. Rolling road is something I've thought about - just not sure who to go to around here (I'm near Solihull in the West Midlands) Many years ago I took my Nova 1.3 SR to one in Birmingham - they certainly made it fly (It had a sports exhaust on it!) and developed about 70bhp at the wheels in the end. Drank the fuel though!

I should have said - Burlen will be on my list of calls tomorrow - It's just a little irritating that its not running sweet all the time!

If the RCD is tripping you have a fault to earth - or at least the leakage to earth through the motors etc is higher than the limit of the RCD - which in a domestic environment is normally 30mA - you might need to change the post circuit to a 100mA one - or put it on a non RCD circuit if its only the lift on it (Ie. a fixed appliance)

I've recently fitted a "new" engine to my spitfire - it came with carbs so used them as they look fine and everything moves nice and free (especially the choke, which on my old engine tends to stick - and the throttle which i had to fit extra springs to get it to close the butterfly properly) But I've noticed some things - like they don't seem to have overflow pipes like my old ones. But I think they are newer - I've not checked the part number yet. Anyway, apart from that, any ideas what needles and I guess springs, should be fitted? The cam is just a Newmans road cam, so not wild, but the exhaust is a 421 stainless manifold and has been matched to the head.

I've not seen engineering blue for years!

Had another tinker today as it was dry! - just final bits and bobs, like refitting the air horns (very old but still work!) the side air deflector on the passenger side, oil pressure sender and lashed in the gauge temporarily - it needs adjusting as it moves to about 20psi when its not running! Anyway, got it all sorted and went for a spin - drives like it has no pull at all. I think it is either ignition timing or fuel. The dizzy has been refurbed, so that shouldn't be an issue, but can never rule it out - the mechanical advance works as when you rev it, the timing moves as it should. Its ok to about 2000rpm then it starts to run a bit rough and doesn't want to pull - back off the throttle and it will build up the revs. I'm thinking its either fuel or the vac advance is either not working properly - or the carb barb is blocked as the pipe is the one that came off the old engine. Pull the pipe off and nothing appears to happen - but at idle that should be right? I did lift the carb pins and the revs picked up and dropped back which I think is what should happen? The engine is as smooth as a smooth thing when idling - and revs lovely with no load. I did adjust the timing again to about 12deg BTDC - it was 14 and seemed a little better - or have I gone the wrong way? I'll have to have a read up and see what I can work out. Might be needles in the carbs being wrong I guess - actually I have a question about the carbs, but I'll do post in the right section!

Oh and I have 4 ring power circuit - upstairs, downstairs, kitchen and garage and 3 lighting circuits - up, down and garage.

Do they? Last time I looked they were still 32A - radials tend to be 16 or 20A - but I know there are potential issues with rings due largely to lack of testing once installed (I rewired our house before we moved in in 1994 and it was tested then and hasn't been officially tested since) as connections in the back of sockets can become loose due to heating - or even just putting back into the wall if the connection flexes on moving and wasn't quite tight enough - and result in effectively a 32A radial - which with 2.5mm cable is not a good idea!

Actually, I've noticed the warm up time is very quick - even just sitting on the drive idling. Once I've got the garage back in one piece and properly tidied up and some space recovered, I am going to take the old engine apart - well, sump off and have a look to see how the bottom end is fairing. And the thermostat housing off and have a look!

Thats a good result in the end! I would recommend flushing the coolant before refilling with the right stuff! I found taking the top hose at the manifold off and holding the hose against the rubber pipe worked a treat. Once it had flowed out of the tee piece and rad cap a bit and was clear, I deemed the pink stuff I'd put in before out had all come out and then put in the right stuff and topped with deionized water. I had bought a couple of wide necked funnels from ikea - the bigger one of the two was perfect and didn't spill a drop!

Almost the end of this now. Got the right antifreeze in today and the final 3 bolts around the bell housing fitted - so did take it for a short run around the block - missed a little under load - so had a look at the timing and carbs - and the timing was a little retarded so advanced it a bit - and it certainly picked the revs up as it went back - the timing mark is also as steady as a rock now too - but then with a refurbed dizzy I would hope so! Carbs were out of balance too - so got them sorted (One was reading 7 and the other 4 on my carb balancer - now both on about 4.5) and idling nicely at about 900rpm. Thinking about it, I didn't see the revs change much with the vacuum off - so better check the pipe to make sure its not blocked!

Well, the fill actually happened this afternoon after the rain stopped! Did a final flush by holding the hose against the top hose that goes to the heater valve - which was open and waited until it filled up the rad and over flowed from the manifold tee that i took it off. I also had the car on ramps as I'd fitted the last three bolts on the bell housing - so my theory was the air would tend to migrate to the top and the radiator and come out easier! Then put in just over 2.5 ltrs of blue antifreeze and about 2 ltrs of de-ionised water - so is a bit "rich" but will be fine. Temperature gauge when it gets warm is now sitting at just under half way - the old engine was always 1/4 at best. I wonder if the thermostat was missing!

Thanks a bit annoying - no,. I'll rephrase that - that is a lot annoying and a P' take to be honest. I would probably be the same!

I seem to remember taking springs out with a pair of the single jaw type many years ago with no issues. But must admit I do like the look of the proper job above and will get one when the time comes to replace my springs. The were an advisory last year on the mot. Not that I’ll probably get another one, and just go for another pair of eyes ? .

Actually you could also try an Erwin extractor. Fairly cheap and work well in my experience as long as you have enough left to grip.

I’ve run it up again since and flushed the wrong antifreeze out. Did another recording of the exhaust - does sound nice I think.

Is the housing this one?: Part number 144297? - A refurb from Canley Classics is around £25 plus delivery? Ok, its not in stock, but something like 10days according to David Manners site. Why are you messing about? I'm all for repairing etc what you have if reasonably practicable, but I'll replace with refurb or new all day long if that isn't possible. But bear in mind that my car is not ever going to be concourse or original - it is a different story, potentially, if yours is in that category.

If anyone is interested Paddocks has Evans coolant on sale. 5ltrs about £47. Don’t know why you would be but hey!

Having expected the antifreeze to arrive today, I got a message from the seller to say it was out of stock and not going to be back in stock for about 6 weeks So, having spent the afternoon flushing the radiator (It was dry outside!) several times - I've now put it back in the garage and will so a final fill tomorrow. I also found a fuel leak - I thought it was coming from the flexible end by the carb on Saturday so re-positioned the clip - but today it was coming from half way up the pipe - and running onto the block. There is a kink in the metal and also a grove where its probably rubbed on the old bracket (No rubber grommet!) - so I replaced it with the one off the old engine and all is good again. (With a grommet!) Sounds much nicer with the carb dash pots full of oil too!