Anglefire

I run my Spitfire to 5k on occasion - not often though. But does sit happily enough between 3-4k. I do have a Derv and my habit is to run at lower revs - but in my youth I had a mildly tuned Nova 1.3SR - and that would redline at 7500 - and run all day (Officially!) at 6700. We a quick car for the time - about 75bhp at the wheels - but the fuel economy was dire!

My Skoda's battery went flat early in the Pandemic - I had a dashcam wired to the live side of the battery (Now switched!) and because I didn't drive the car for a while was enough to drain the battery. - So yes driver error, but also change of use! Wifes battery went flat too - that had been left even longer without being run - and nothing other than the usual radio etc powered. Recharged it but wasn't happy so replaced the battery and has been fine since - the battery to be fair was the original - 10years old. The Spitfire I can leave for months and it starts ok. But that has been given a new battery because it was showing signs of weakness - and I didn't like the posts at the front, so the new battery has them at the back.

Unless you put the fog lights on - then they come on 😃

Interesting. I jumped off my bmw and it was simple - the battery is in the boot, so there is a positive post covered by a red (from memory) plastic cover and a large spade for want of a better term for the -ve under the bonnet. French. Ah yes. They have a habit of engineering the wiring as thin as they can get it and it fails regularly- particularly at the door joints.

Reverse polarity is careless. Black to black and red to red is not hard. 😂 Spikes on Ecu’s? Not likely - the battery is a ruddy great capacitor so would take a heck of a spike to get to the ecu’s - especially on modern cars.

What? Disconnect the vehicle you are jumping from? Never heard that one and certainly never done it. If the battery on the car to be jumped is that flat, it will suck all the power out of the doner battery! Often, some revs is needed to get the voltage up to compensate for the discharge!

Still not been out in mine yet (Can't yet as isolating) but have popped into the garage and measured from the floor to the bottom of the arch - and is now even both sides at 24 1/4" - which is 3/4" higher than Clive measured and 1 3/4" higher than mine was originally. Certainly happy enough for the moment. Just would be nice to go out in it......

I bought the Ph1 cam. Works well I think. Suits the 1500. The ph2 is a good alternative for the 1300 I think as that engine does Rev better.

Odd - worked for me - but it is the PDF download - try this Camshafts | www.newman-cams.com (newman-cams.com) and follow Triumph link

Interesting wear on the cam gear too. I can recommend Newman Cams - PRICELIST-BROCHURE_2020-TRIUMPH.pdf (erstellen.co.uk) if you want to go for a new one. Or Canley Classics for a regrind.

Hum interesting - pointing a laser into the night sky cannot be a good idea - and would be illegal over here! Nice choice of platform - LR3 in the USA. Discovery 3 in the UK.

Ah the one I was thinking about was the led one that cuts a hole to stop reflection from signs as well as cutting a hole in oncoming cars. Never seen it personally in action - but I’m told it’s brilliant. But as I say just seems to complicated - at least out of warranty 😂

Dim-dip was actually a good idea - one reason being the light pollution would be reduced and lets face it, in towns you don't need full brightness headlights - but it required manual intervention by the driver - so it was very rarely used - and then the EU got involved and as it wasn't a German idea got deleted. By current modern (And previous ) 2 cars had auto lights - both when it goes dark and if the wipers are on. I don't have auto main/dip though - I know someone that does and it works well. But it strikes me as something else to go wrong.....

I created a protractor in acad - I've attached the pdf version. Just print it out on stiff paper or card. Cam Timing.pdf

I remember being on holiday in the Nordic countries with my parents when I was about 21 - at that time the UK had no requirement for daylight running lights not even bikes I think? - but over there dipped lights were compulsory. I always remember thinking at the time how much earlier you could see oncoming vehicles - but also that it was irrelevant! I also always thought dipped lights on motorbikes a very good idea - not so much on cars and am still of the view that excepting some cases - like described above - that lights on cars means bikes disappear into the general traffic noise. I'm convinced it was something invented by the German manufacturers as they wanted to sell more stuff on their cars that they could promote as a benefit.

You can flip the single chain sprockets over too - which gives you several permutations to get down to the fine angles possible.

I used an impact driver - mine (some 30years old) came with several bits including slotted and cross head.

I have no roll over bar and no plans to get one either. I absolutely know the risks and all the arguments for them and (Very few) against. My mileage in the car is extremely low (Need to drive it more actually) in comparison to my daily - though pandemic as well as changes to the way my industry is changing with remote access is reducing my business mileage significantly (6-8k less this year). The actual accident risk is higher in my daily - though significantly higher chance of survival than the Spitfire. Funnily enough I was talking to my kids only yesterday (Or day before, time is very much an illusion) about how many miles I've done since I've been driving and its something like 3/4Million and in that time have written off 1 car (With 2 weeks of passing my test - Mum was pleased 🤣) and been rear ended once and have run into a Land Crab in my Beetle when I was about 19 - he had a towbar on and had no damage - I had to panel beat the bonnet back into shape and repaint it (With no filler and was perfect when done) as well a couple of minor scrapes. What I'm saying is that the risk for me is acceptable.

My discovery had a rear ladder fitted to gain access to the roof rack - the standard struts are fine when new - but after a fairly short time they fail and it either doesn’t lift fully open - and you smack your head on it - or it doesn’t stay up at all - which is a pain when loading! I went to sgs engineering and they did me two custom ones at 475nm (standard was 350nm both from memory) - they were a bit too powerful and if you stood too close and opened it, it would take your chin off! My solution was to hold it as it went up! I do think two struts would be the best solution- if going for struts. Probably 100-120nm each based on Rogers science.

I’ll give it a run out to properly settle on the bushes first. Won’t be today though. But pleased it went in ok. I will probably replace the bolts in the diff at some point - I reused the old ones - I’d bought longer ones but haven’t fitted the lowering block - I don’t think at the moment it needs it. And the plain shank is longer too so can’t fit them and cut them down. but changing one at a time is no biggy.

Oh and has only moved back and forth a few feet so needs to properly settle. But no more time now. perhaps later - though the forecast is rain anytime soon - and I’ve got to button up the diff cover and fit the rear seat board

Yes it all makes sense now! The top bush was poly - so something has been done in the past. No idea when. but I did get a new poly one so that has gone in I’ve not fitted the lowering block - not sure it will need it long term anyway - as the front matches the back now!

I wasn’t expecting the last leaf to be sandwiched like that. But if that right that’s how it will go back and having looked at the top of the diff it does make sense.

This looks wrong.

It’s out.