Anglefire

Bumper doesn't follow the curves of the car - looks wrong to me - but what the heck do I know!

Bit of a resurrection but I’ve been busy! had another go at tightening the sandwich plate bolt this afternoon. Had to get the filter off first that proved to be a challenge and had to use a removal tool in the end that damaged it. Not an issue as I have a spare. next was finding something to tighten the bolt. There is bugger all room to get a socket onto the head and I couldn’t get enough purchase on with some adjustable spanners I have with one tip that it quiet thin. I worked out the size is 1”af but the head is not square but is chamfered - just like both my 1” sockets. so I attacked my old one (30+ years) with the angle grinder to trim the top down and to thin the walls out. just took enough off to grip the head and did it up a bit more. Fitted a new filter topped up the oil and turned over the engine to check for leaks. All good so pulled the choke out and it fired up nicely. Kept an eye open for leaks and seems ok. Let it idle for quite a time so it got nice and hot. oil pressure is nice at idle - much higher than it has been for some time - but I’m also aware that it won’t be at Normal running temperature. I’m convinced the oil pickup is not right or the level is wrong because I’m used to seeing the pressure go up and then drop before finally climbing again. It didn’t do that today. it also didn’t make a sucking noise when I turned it off - either the previous filter anti drain back didn’t work (it was meant to have one) and the new one does (714/2) or something else is going on. you may ask why I didn’t take it for a drive - well I would except I had a delivery of 6 bulk bags of various building materials on the drive this morning so I can’t get it out!

If the provenance is available for that money it has to be worth a punt?

Most modern cars, the temperature gauge is controlled by the ECU and will read in the middle of the normal for a huge temperature range - my disco would be normal at a notional 90'C (From memory) - but would be in the same place from anything around 75/80 to 100 - it didn't get into the red and the warning light come on until it got to about 105 - normally in quick succession. I knew this because I had a diagnostic reader that would display the actual temperature.

The 1500 and possibly others has a vent on the top of the tank that is blocked off - mine was knackered and did exactly this - replaced and all sorted

I have a wheel barrow type (rimmers I think) bought second hand with an engine. Has a middle cherry bomb type section as decent sized silencers on each exit. it is noisy compared to many but not as noisy as others I like it The club shop does a sports exhaust with a single outlet that I think is a lot quieter

Daft question. What grease is recommended? My grease gun is full of a molly grease. I hate to think how old it is, but suffice to say I used it when I had my vw beetles in the 80’s.

My daughter is having a year off before starting Uni in September (Yes it has been confirmed to be happening!) - so she got a job at Tesco's doing the Dot com shopping - she has been there since last September/October - on a 3 day 6am to 12 lunch contract - she has almost never just worked the 3 days and since the CV19 came along, has had her hours changed to 2am to 9am - and sometimes more (Sundays an hour less) - and 6 days a week is usual, 14 straight was common until recently too. Anyway the comment was really that she has never been fitter - she was never fat - but now is like a racing whippet and has a stomach that you could iron on! And she has a very healthy bank balance - she is about 2x over her target already and should be 3x by the time she leaves! Oh and she gets 10% discount (Was 15% at the start of Covid) - which is very handy!

Ooh, just looked at a picture (can't get the car out of the garage due to the skip!) and yes they have a grease nipple.

Hum. Must check mine. Though not 100% sure they are greasable.......

I have 2 sets of ramps - both used a lot when I had my Land Rover Disco3- which weighed in at around 3tonnes. I can’t drive up them with the spitfire - though might be able to if I had extenders- but I also have a low start but high lift 3tonne jack which works a treat. and axle stands. One pair from Halfords and one pair I made myself when I was at uni. They were tested with a 10tonne press upto 7tonnes. Used a lot with the disco and now with the spitfire. Very stable in themselves. The only issue is where they support the car.

That’s what I bought for my spitfire when I refitted the head.

Burning oil in big quantities is often bores/rings not head. Unless its the head gasket has failed between the rocker feed perhaps (Or anywhere else to be honest) and the cylinder. Payen Gaskets are the best and tend to fail less ( I did have one go recently, very shortly after fitting.)

Are you sure it is this that is the problem - given that some air has to get in the engine at idle......... I had a massive problem with my spit idling too high and it turned out to be a leak on the manifold to head flange. Can easily prove it by running the engine and dropping a bit of oil on around the mating face - which should drop the idle as it seals it - or a bit of spray brake cleaner which may raise it - though can also seal for a bit. Petrol is good - if you are brave

My Spitfire does that - stall - or at least run very rough, when the cap is taken off - which has always had me baffled when its suggested that the tappets are adjusted with the engine running - I don't think mine will! But I digress!

For new wire - get some welding cable - no, not rods, but the cable that connects the leads to the machine. Something like this: https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/2200513-16mm-welding-cable-black-cut-length-sold-by-the-mtr 16mm2 is good for around 60A and is very flexible so ideal for getting to from the engine to battery - not that a lot of movement is expected!

Got mine out on the drive this morning.

I got my plaque yesterday. Weather looks ok in the morning tomorrow.......... Give it time it could change!

No you are safe. I have a 1500 Spitfire. But is blue. 😂

Hi Adrian, I don't have such a need at the moment - I just noticed you are local to me - and my Inlaws are from Chelmsley

And Pete, to be fair, plate heat exchangers - used a lot in steam to hot water.

I’ve no idea what the original spec for the wiring is, but I’d use thin wall cable. Something like what you can get from here. https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/mobile/product/70/category/114 i can’t remember if I’ve bought from them, but they look ok as far as I can see.

This could be fun. Bet it rains 😂

Yeah but they have issues in some cases - having to reweld the top hose connection is something not everyone can do - and they rads are very angular. To be fair, I have made my choice and went full width from canley.

Yes I've not understood the logic either - he is a decent old school mechanic but he reckoned he had to block off most of the rad - which to me points to other issues - but I'm not going there 😂 If I'm honest, I don't like the look of them - I'd rather have a black one that looks vaguely like OEM.