Badwolf
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Everything posted by Badwolf
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Hopefully later this evening after a session with the Colourtune, if I can get it to work. Now carbs are properly oiled and mixture leaned off a bit it should be just a matter of adjusting the mixture screw ('til blue shows in the Colourtune window) and tick over. Then it should be a whizz and not a series of jumps. Do you advocate leaving the air filters as they are or fitting the box and pipes. I know Triumph designed them like that for a reason, but I've seen bare ones, encased ones, dirty ones, expensive ones etc. These are just bog standard replacements. -
Just sorted the wiper motor out. I have left the previous posting just in case anyone else has similar problems. The frayed wire that I couldn't find the other end of is the main earth which goes to a connector under the body of the wiper, held in place by one of the wiper motor bolts which passes through the thick rubber mounting pad (which is why I missed it). The circuit diagram happily shows a wire going to earth but doesn't say where the earth connector is!! I have no idea why it was showing +12v unless there was some sort of back feed somewhere. Anyway, I have re-connected it, nothing has gone bang, no smell of burning and no fuses have blown so, all is well... for the moment.
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Pete. Ok... calm down.. dash pots cleaned out and refilled with 20w50.. not tried out yet. Now got further problems... windscreen wipers have stopped for no apparent reason. Could be I've pulled out a connection messing with radio. Switch appears ok, getting 12v at the block connector into the wiper motor. I have found a black wire which looks like it has broken off from somewhere (insulation broken and wires sticking out are frayed), but cannot see where it could have gone to. It's not long enough to reach the block connector. It goes into the wiring loom right at the point where the loom goes through into the bulkhead, about 4 inches away from the block connector. According to the meter it has +12volt on it and sparked when I caught it to earth!!! Cannot find it on the wiring diagram. Any thoughts anyone?
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I think things are progressing fairly well considering my lack of mechanical experience. Just need to sort out the sooty plug bit, I think mixture, then rotor/condenser. Swapped the dubious looking distributor cap for an old one which looks in better condition and adjusted the mixture one full turn leaner and will try when it stops raining (if ever). I do have another rotor and a brand new condenser so will put those in as needed. By the way, is the type of oil in the dash pots significant. Read in one article to use 3 in one (that's what is in at the moment), another says 20w50 engine oil. Which is correct if either?
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Manual Washer Jets and Non-return Valves
Badwolf replied to Bordfunker's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
When the car was on the road before I had an electric pump with a separate push button to operate. I always forgot to mention it to the MOT tester who promptly failed it. That's why I started on the conversion of the original push pump to electric. Appears to be working well at the moment, but the wiper switch has given up. Probably a loose connection but will investigate later. If the whole unit fails... back to the drawing board. -
The radio problem has been sorted for the time being. I knew it was difficult to put in due to it being one that comes out of the casing but I had forgotten how I fitted it all those years ago.
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My plugs are still black..... but I'm working on it!!!
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Manual Washer Jets and Non-return Valves
Badwolf replied to Bordfunker's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
Karl. I converted my pump action wash/wipe switch to an electric pump using the original unit which had a broken pipe connector. Got through the mot with it and I am just in the process of literally road testing it before I post the instructions on my forum page. When I do, I will flag the heading so you can spot it and see if you can adapt it to yours -
Ok. Leaving the question of the 'kangaroo juice' engine aside for the moment, can anyone help on the fitting of a radio. It came out easily but will it go back...!!!??? I can't remember the easiest way to do it. Its one of those that pulls out of its housing for security, but it won't because of the gear stick and all the angles are wrong to get it in with the 'H' console support and fitting plate. Any help as ever, greatly appreciated.
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It is a delco, it says it on the side of the distributor on the side next to the engine. I notice that P*dd*cks do a red delco version. As you say, its probably just red instead of black. By the way, it might be a stupid bit of reasoning but if a condenser has the required amount of waxed foil inside, should it not weigh heavier than the rubbish version with little inside? Only question is what is the optimum weight?
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Colin. The Apollo looks in good condition. Not tried it yet. It has previously been used for emulsion paint but looks fairly clean. I will strip it down in due course and get any residual paint out. Had a word with someone a Frost's about POR15. Looks interesting but appears to set like concrete!! Thought it might spray but not so sure if it wouldn't set solid in the gun. Their Red top coat look a nice colour, very similar to Signal Red and the blurb gives the impression that the finished paint is bullet proof!! Pete. Took her out for a quick run, mainly to check the choke and warm up prior to changing the oil. Running much better but still lacks power and plugs still sooty. I have backed off the mixture and is now set at one full turn down instead of two. Not that trial and error is a good way of doing this. I have found my old Gunson''s Colourtune so may give that a try. Unfortunately the sealing washer is missing, but salvaged one off an old spark plug. I was never very good with these things so I'm not convinced it will work. I tended to leave the tuning of the carbs to the professionals but these days if it doesn't plug into a computer they don't want to know. I have also put the old distributor cap on as it has considerably more carbon in the the center than the one that was off. Little by little it get better. By the way, what is the difference between a standard rotor arm and a red one?
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Pete. The answers to the questions in your list are as follows: ....... very likely to be small rubber sliver syndrome small bits of rubber hose get cut off when you insert fittings into the fuel hoses, these float back and forth and end up jammed in the back of the float needle valve , and starvation under power - Not tried yet do check after using choke that the nasty linkage has returned the dropped jet back to its adjusting nut , a prod with a finger cures this - give the base of the jet assy a poke - Were/are the plugs all sooty ??? - Yes jet returned when poked, choke cable was set too short and not pushing linkage all the way back in... now adjusted. All the plugs were sooty , they were cleaned before taking her out for the 'kangaroo petrol trip', so it looks like the choke cable setting could be the problem. any rota with a rivet in the sweep blade is probably useless - Yes, the rotor has a rivet in it check the rotor cap brush is actually contacting the rotor - The carbon brush in the centre top of the distributor cap is worn flush with the surround and may not be making very good contact make sure the top of the coil ht socket is clean ...not green - Nice and bright, not green dont use spark plugs with an R in the suffix - The plugs don't have an 'R' in the suffix (NGK BP6ES) some condensers can have little inside the canister and fail , you cant tell without cutting it up - if it misses/ back fires a bit expect condense - Not replaced yet as I don't want to put to many changes into the mix and not know what was causing the problems I will clean up the plugs and try over the weekend and report back. This may help somebody else who has similar problems. Thanks
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Pete. Just had a chance to have a quick look at some of the items listed. The carbon centre of the distributor cap appears to be smooth compered with the surround. I found an old one in the bits box which has a lot more carbon sticking out. No green on the HT coil socket, no Rs in the plugs. I have also found various condensers, one I think is new, so if swapping the cap doesn't work I will try that. Working my way through the rest. As ever.... thanks for taking the trouble. Addition... just found choke is also sticking... what is the best way to stop sticking? Addition 2.. I think that the choke cable was too tight. I have slackened it off, pulled through some more cable and tightenned up again. I doesn't appear to be sticking open now. Will try it tomorrow if I get a chance.
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Thanks Pete. Plenty to have a go at. Won't be able to do any work until the weekend but will go through your list and report back.
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Took the car out for its first run yesterday. Very exciting as about 4 miles from home it developed a misfire, running very rough. She runs fine on tick over but no power on acceleration (if you can call it that). Could be electrical or possibly fuel line blockage. I have not replaced the plug leads or distributor cap yet, but did clean the petrol pump gauze, carbs, and fit new paper filter. Does anyone have any experience on this. I'm sure this is simple but don't want to start replacing thing un-neccesarily.
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Colin. Thanks for the info. Do you know if there is a great difference between UPOL professional (metal etch) and UPOL acid#8 (acid etch)? The professional looks to be about half the price of the acid.
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Adrian. Pictures look great. You have convinced me unless anyone else out there has any other experiences. Has anyone tried UPOL acid etch primer?
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Colin. Just paid £40 for a secondhand one to play with. No doubt it will need cleaning out but we will see. Your picture gives me hope.. looks good.
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Adrian. Thanks for the advice. I intend to start underneath. The chassis and underside were hammerited 30 years ago when it was a decent product. Time has taken its toll and now needs doing again so it will need degreasing, de-waxoylinv, in fact de-everything. I forgot to ask in my post for advice on cleaning products as many products leave a greasy residue. POR do a very expensive marine grade degreaser but if it works first time, it nay be worth it over the cheaper versions which need several applications. The shopping list has started.
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I have bitten the bullet and bought a spraymate. Time will tell if it was a good decision, but if Colin has had good results then it's a start for me. The next thing is to ask for advice on painting. The old paint was applied by spray (not by me) many years ago and appears very thick, brittle and is blistering and flaking off so its back to metal and start again, probably on a panel by panel basis for ease. So what do you experienced forumites recommend in the way of acid etch primer, hi build and top coat...please.
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I have changed over to Silicone DOT 5 when I refurbished the brake rubbers, pistons etc etc. I blew the old fluid out into a can at each wheel using a foot pump with a football adapter before refitting new flexi lines, pistons, rubbers and all the other stuff. Filled up with DOT5 and bled. There were still traces of the old DOT3 coming through as globules as I was bleeding it soon stopped and on MOT there was no trouble with the brakes and any softness in pedal travel I just put down to the difference between driving a modern with servo assist and a classic without. I now have no worries about stripping paint having just repainted my bulkhead due to the damage done by DOT3..... but the can of worms will wiggle on forever. By the way Paul, how did you get the master cylinder boots to seat. Mine won't go into the bulkhead all the way round.
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Thanks Colin... anyone else out there with any experience of this please. This will be spraying from scratch with little experience apart from cans. Are there any thoughts about POR15 etch primer and suitable high build undercoats/tops coats etc... for the absolute novice. Thanks
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I have been offered an apollo spraymate which is tempting, for me to do a basic spray job, verage but not concourse needed as mentioned in prevoius post. Does anyone think its worth trying. Gets good reviews put any practical experience of the unit would be valued.
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You're welcome Gully. I also sent Owen a good luck message. Been trying to get vinyl/leather samples from him for about 3 months without success. I didn't realise that he was ill again or going into hospital until the details came up on his web pages
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For those of you who may have missed my other post, Owen has posted a note on his web site that he will be going into hospital for a heart operation on 13th September 2017. I'm sure that everyone will wish him a speedy recovery.
