Badwolf
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Everything posted by Badwolf
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Doug - Can you get Pete a new keyboard for Christmas (or spellchecker).
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Pete. Copy all the web link address into your browser, don't just click on it. For some reason only the first part of the link is loading. Https://youtu.be/irDL1_7v84s
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I vaguely remember having this sort of problem years ago and if memory serves me, the problem was a cracked distributor cap. Tried the old test of misting it with water in the dark... looked like a firework display.
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I have a dreadful feeling of deja vu with this thread. All this advice is good stuff, but it all still failed for me until the mixture was set up properly, now no problems, however I did find excessive wear on the distributor cap carbon brush and replaced the rotor with a red one... thanks Pete!!
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Before you try the oven, put a match to it. Saves the problem of strange tasting food in the future. Seriously, I used 2mm Silentcoat sheets in the interior and fuel tank areas. Not cheap, but appears to work and not as thick as the original padding. In the body tub, I found that the felt stuff, stopped the seat runners as it was too thick. Should be ok on the gearbox side of the new tunnel cover (not sure if you class that as the inside or outside).
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Doug - The photo I posted on Bertie's thread has not been reduced to 50k in line with site instructins. Try it, if it won't post I will reduce the size more. BW
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Doug. This is 37kb
This is 27Kb
Resolution is dreadful, but should do for the id photo. Strangely the list of uploaded images is only showing a landscape version. i have no idea why, maybe Kevin can advise.
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BW, 37k works! Terrific! Thanks very much. I used to be able to do this stuff, but it's all gone now!
My mother (95) just phoned to ask me what was 80% of 147.80, I used to be able to do that in my head, but now, thank God for calculators.
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Doesn't look too bad. It's now actually three photographs. The grass is a bit obvious but there isn't much visible on the cropped version, the sky has come out well.
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Good to have you with us. I only started posting in the summer as I was desparate for help. The selfless advice I got was astounding (have a look at my restoration thread). This forum and its contributors are amazing. I have one or two diy jobs to post soon that may help others, a sort of pay back for all their help.
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When my new spring was fitted, the garage used the bushes that came with it from the suppliers. I am shortly going to replace the rear UJs so will have to disconnect the bolts. Is there a better bush to go in the spring eye or will the ones supplied be as good a anything else. Might as well do the job properly when I put it back together.
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Doug. Let me know what size, I'll rescale it and edit the post with the lower res picture so as not to clog up Russell's thread. Addition. Doug - I have added a reduced res picture to the posting earlier. Try that one.
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You'd be amazed at what can be done. See if you can load up this one and see what it looks like. If it does fit OK, it needs a bit more work. If you want me to try to get rid of the background cars let me know. Takes a bit more than the ten minutes I spent on it to sort that out!!!
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Russell. Id photo looks great. Love your other pictures as well. Just need to sort out Doug's missing head now! BW
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Russell, I would think that the vertical shot of the tail fins and number plate would do very nicely. You can always change it later. Remember that the forum software will crop it to a circle, losing some of the top and bottom in this case. BW
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Doug - Re posting on Bertie's thread. It should be fairly straight forward to sort out your id photo. Its about time I gave something back for all that you have given me. I am probably better at manipulating photos than Spitfire engines!
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Doug - It was part of the 'upgrade' to the forum. When it happened it trimmed my nose and ears!!! I have had a look at yours and think I can improve it for you if you want. I have a little experience in this sort of thing. Maybe move this discussion to my thread? Bertie - Sorry to hijack your thread with this, it happens quite regularly.
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Doug - Those photos are beautiful. Its about time you reformatted the one for your id so it includes your head. If you want me to try to do it let me know
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Got mine from Paddocks. That's when they told me I had been running for 10 years with a MkIII spring on my MkIV spitfire. Now it has the correct spring, the bodywork is sitting about 3 inches higher and a much better drive..... wonder why?
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I finished mine with Rustins Danish oil. Also about 12 coats rubbed down with fine steel wool between coats. Suggest you replace the dashboard bulbs with leds, the colour of your choice before refitting (see separate threads - search for led). Don't try to replace the speedo oil, alt or main beam indicators with the gauge in place. Trapped my finger between the dash and parcel shelf and had trouble removing it. Nearly very embarrasing!!
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My wooden dashboard was in dreadful state when I got it from the scrapyard. A friend of mine who was a cabinet maker got me some veneer and taught me how to apply it. Now, even after 30 years it looks pretty good. Part of it can be seen on the 'Instrument lighting - Vitesse' thread, although the woodwork is a little dark. You might get your Dad to try veneering yours before making a brand new one. He can always make an exact template from yours while working on the original one, for record purposes. When you do remove the dash take it slowly and carefully. Lable every cable that you disconnect, you will regret it if you don't (I didn't and it took me ages to sort out with the circuit diagram) and take plenty of photographs for reference.
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Paul H. Will post full instructions and pictures at a later date as I have only just put the dash-board back together .. again. Roughly, the light-box is made from an 11" length of 25mm aluminium 'U' extrusion with the ends blanked off with pieces of angle to form a box with two sides missing. The ends and two other small brackets are riveted on the the big piece and holes drilled in each end for the bulb holders. The whole assembly is then pushed up against the length of the plastic heater control insert and screwed onto the wooden dash with short screws. Push the bulb holders in with the LED bulbs, tap into a dashboard light pos and neg wires with bullet connectors and put everything back together. Mine looks like this: I'll never get a job as a Blue Peter presenter!!
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Paul H. Just spotted bulb holders on fleabay, item no. 272875732303. May be useful to you. Just extended the lightbox at the back of my heater controls, looks really good now.
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Adrian. What type of seats do you have, high back/low back/head rest/recliner/non-recliner. Mine are low back, non-recliner.. the one type that he doesn't list in leather.
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Thanks Colin. I mentioned earlier in this thread that there was a clunk from the back end before the car was moth-balled. After 20+ years it sounds a lot worse, or perhaps I am just a little more sensitive to it. No matter what, I think that the UJs are due for replacement as, I'm sure, that they were not done on the original body off restoration which means that they could be over 30 years old. They have certainly had no lubrication by me as I did not know they needed it. I will, however, look out for the points mentioned by everyone... strap drive catching, long bolts (could even be the wrong ones fitted!!), loose bolts and lack of lubrication. They could all be points leading to the clunks and ALL things that I would not have looked for without the help of all you excellent contributors who give your time and advice so freely to all of us who would be totally lost without it. Once again I thank you all.
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Pete. I think I understand that.... I will start with the drive shafts then.
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Ok so just picked up the Spitfire from having the carbs setup having failed miserably to sort it out myself. Sorry to everyone who has given me advice and encouragement but it came to a point where I wanted to enjoy the last of the decent weather without sooty plugs or kangaroo juice petrol. She is now running a treat, carbs set and balanced, valves and timing set. Next job is to sort out the knock from the back end. New ujs bought and ready to go in. Before I take spanners to the prop and half shafts, is there anything that I need to watch out for? The manuals make them look like fairly straight forward jobs, but the regular contributors will probably have their 'need to know' and don't do under any circumstances lists, and before I start. I need to know please!!
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Clutch / Brake master cylinder brackets - Battery box
Badwolf replied to Adrian's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
I just gave mine a good wash down with plenty of engine cleaner followed by soap and water. Then a coat of old (the good stuff) hammerite which I had in the garage. If I do it again I will use POR15 chassis paint.
My mother (95) just phoned to ask me what was 80% of 147.80, I used to be able to do that in my head, but now, thank God for calculators.
