Badwolf
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Everything posted by Badwolf
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Doug, was it you that was interested in my conversion of an original pump action window wash/wipe switch to electrical. If so I will publish details here when/if the car gets its MOT. -
I very much doubt that he will make house calls to Manchester!! I would like to go to club hq for Pete's twiddly bits in Sept but too far and short of time hence my hope of videos (see separate thread)
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and...... that's when the panic sets in!!
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...oh. and my drive slopes too.
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Doug. Yesterday I was on my back with the car safely sitting on blocks, replacing, very successfully, the exhaust and silencer. The engine now sounds amazing, but car won't move. I can do exhausts, but clutches scare me for some reason. Too many bolts and springy thingys.
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You two are great but all the books say take out the gearbox which I don't want to do on my own. If you can direct me to an idiots guide to freeing your clutch plate I might just, only just, have a go, but the car still has to go into the same garage for MOT eventually. Perhaps a video guide.... but no, that was covered elsewhere recently!!
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By the way, the tunnel cover has been off for months, to do the slave cylinder and change gear box oil. I can see all the gear box casing etc and don't relish taking a spanner to it!
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Call me BW !!! Glad you have so much confidence in me, but it was a major job just to strip the carbs...which I did very successfully thanks to you and Pete, but I have a very bad feeling about the clutch, After refurbing the master and slave cylinders and filling/bleeding the system there is only about 2 inches of pedal travel. I can hear a hissing from the clutch area when the pedal is depressed, but I think there is something more fjndemental going wrong there. I have a vague memory that the clutch was on its way out when the car was mothballed 21 years ago. I even got a new slave cylinder at the time but only fitted it, with new rubbers last month but it did not improve the feel of the pedal, if you know what I mean. Now I just want it back on the road. A hobby it might be, but its becoming a full time job with little enjoyment these days,
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Thanks fellas. Knew you would look after me. Sadly, been unable to free the clutch. Ran for over an hour and tried all suggestions to break it free.. no luck. I don't fancy taking it out to free it so will get it to my local garage. They can do it in a fraction of the time, and more reliably, than me. Will probably get them to put a new clutch kit in. That will see me out!!!
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Does anyone have any advice about using unleaded petrol in a leaded head. I have an additive (castrol valvemaster) but some say use it on every fill up, others only every second or third fill. I am not planning to replace the head in the near future so better be safe than sorry. Advice, as ever, would be gratefully received.
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Can anyone point me to a pattern for the prop shaft tunnel cover. The bit of that is usually covered in vinyl that goes between the radio support bracket and the armrest. It only appears to be a piece of bent plate. I want to make one out of some aluminium that I have and trim it but don't have a pattern for the cut out section. I know I could simply use a piece of card, but not sure of any mounting lugs or other hidden bits.
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Pete. In the absence of specific video tutorials (and I really appreciate the time and commitment needed to do a quality job),perhaps it would be possible via the forum, to compile a list of 'how to' videos to help those of us who have little practical experience and want to learn. Maybe a simple listing of description, for the search engine, and a web link to youtube etc. Of course this may already have been done and I haven't found it. I really admire those of you with a mechanical gift and I really want to try to do many jobs as you can see from some of my posts. Thanks to Pete, Doug, Casper and others, have been quite successful, but the bigger, more technical stuff (clutch, engine, suspension etc), I need a bit of practical, visual, guidance for. Never been too good with text books etc, but show me and that's something else!
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Congrats. Don't forget to check your headlight alignment before going out in the dark. You have probably found the adjustment screws around the silver rim. You should be able to adjust them with the main surround in place.
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Sad, but true. Just a shame not to record the seminars and pass the raw files onto some who has the time.
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If the GT6 bonnet is like the MkIV spitfire, Derekskill is correct. There are three nuts passing through the bonnet from the inside, (two from back into front, one from inside to left when viewed from inside on left hand light unit) into the headlight surround. Take care that when you remove the last one that the surround doesn't fall off. Then unscrew the chrome rim that surrounds front the headlight glasses and the sealed unit will come off in your hands. I found that one of my surrounds was only held on by two nuts and was rattling. The surround appears to be light alloy so don't over tighten when refitting,
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Brilliant ideas. Why not do video tutorials on a range of popular stuff. They could be filmed in front of a live audience at HQ and posted on a special part of the TSSC web pages. Youtube is awash with rubbish home movies type tutorials and if HQ is willing I'm sure that the videos would be a popular addition to the web site for the likes of myself who want to do work themselves but lack the knowledge. Everything from basic servicing to a full repaint job. Look at the help that has come from this forum ... plenty to go at!!!
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Will consider it for the future. Just want to get it mot'd and back on the road. Too many delays on this what with my lack of knowledge and wrong parts it will be Christmas at this rate.
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Looks like a strap drive. Parts catalogue says no 143215(8). I only appear to have 7, somewhat worrying. As for the seal, when it came it out it looked out like there was a plate forming the front which overhung about 1/4" all round but looking at the remains this morning its the front of the seal assembly which was bent back in my attempts to get it out. Addition... I have found a 'spare' strap in my box of bits. A little worrying but at least now I have a full set.
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Managed to carefully cut around the edge of the plate were it was welded and popped out the inner seal bits taking care not to damage anything. New seal has gone in and everything torqued up. Fill up and check tomorrow and refit prop shaft. I have noticed there are only 7 spacer/load spreading shims at the end of the prop shaft. If this usual. Most of the drawing only show 4. Will have a better read up tomorrow.
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After a very long struggle I have finally got the nut off and pulled the flange. It looks like the rubber seal is behind a welded metal plate. Do I take out just the rubber bit or try to get out the entire metal disc section. The Haynes manual is not very clear and the BL workshop manual just says lever out the old seal. I don't want to butcher anything.
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Let me get an MOT and put in back on the road first. Painting is scheduled for late autumn or early spring, avoiding the very cold months. Must admit though, back in the dark ages I painted my old Hillman Husky (not the Imp version) with blue Dulux house paint. Looked nice at the time. Sold it on soon after. Sometimes wonder what happened to it.
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The thread is right hand I assume. Suddenly had the thought that I'm trying to turn the wrong way.
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Thanks Pete. I'm beginning to wonder what I would have done without you and all the other contributors to this forum. Just wait 'til I start on the repaint job!
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On to the next job. Diff front oil seal. I have taken off the old silencer and dropped the prop shaft. The diff is the shim/castellated nut type but the nut is so tight I can't move it probably not been moved since the factory - (yes I have removed the locking split pin!!). Does anyone have any good ideas on moving it. I have read about bolting a bar onto the flange to act as a second lever point along with the main spanner, others comment on using grips to hold the flange, but I think that idea is asking for damage. By the time I have finished on this thread, there will be enough advice to rebuild a whole car. I used to ask my brother-in-law (mechanic) but he is no longer around.
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Better than that, when I complained this morning, I was told (honestly) that it was normal practice to cut down the standard system to get the manifold to fit using the adapter. When I pointed out that the sports manifold with adapter fitted onto the rear pipe without any butchery there was great surprise. I also pointed out that taking a hacksaw to an item caused problems with any guarantee. I might be fairly new to diy mechanics but in this case 'sale of goods act' rules.
