Badwolf
-
Posts
5,362 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
63
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Everything posted by Badwolf
-
Doug. Just passing on what I have been advised to do! Not sure if it was good advice, hence me asking as you and Pete appear to talk sense and know what you are doing. Pete. Will give it a try. Can only mess it up and as its going to the garage eventually for MOT if I really screw it up they can have a go. I am told that some of the mechanics there are old school and know about proper engines.
-
Thanks for that. I was advised to take off the air filters and while the engine was running spray carb cleaner into the air intakes to get rid of any evapoarated petrol residue and other crud, to prevent having to strip them down! I haven't tried it as yet. Have you experts got any views on this please?
-
Can anyone point me to a good youtube video for setting up carburettors. I have got my Spitfire to start after 21 years but am unsure about cleaning and setting up the carbs. They are the SUs without the breather pipe from the rocker box. The engine runs but only on choke at the moment, obviously sooting up the plugs and far from ideal. Can't even get it to my normal garage to have set up and tuned at the moment. I have absolutely no experience with carb set up as this was done by a relation who was a mechanic years ago. Spitfire is a 1972 with a herald 13/60 engine....don't ask!!!
-
Got it working!! For the moment... now the low note appears sad compared to it. Did a lot of reading up and simply looking at it before I finally figured out how it worked and that it had an adjuster which was solid due to years of paint. Works as a simple electromagnetic oscelator with the adjuster setting the gap for opening and closing the points to make and break the circuit. Cleaned the contacts and sprayed with WD40. I think that in putting it back together I put to much silicone sealer between the three sections, moving the post (which acts as a spring) attached to the sounding board to far away from the contacts. Time will tell if I have got it right, but will now try the low note. Thanks for all the help and input. Postscript.. I have freed the adjuster for the low note horn and after about a quarter of a turn the volume now matches the other, much to the neighbours enjoyment! I wonder how how many members don't realise that horns can be adjusted. I didn't and have had the car for over 30 years!!!
-
Back to the horn unit. Reconnected internal wire to spade spade terminal and it worked... twice, then died. I'm sure this is something trivial but can't spot it. Any auto electricians out there with any ideas will be most welcome, otherwise its a trip to ***fords or a new pair from Paddocks!! Pete, is this the set you got.. http://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-parts/electrical-lighting/car-alarms-car-horns/ring-low-high-note-car-horns
-
Ok. Will start a new thread later with instructions and photos
- 14 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- horn
- electrical
- (and 1 more)
-
Got inside faulty unit to find that the rivet holding the internal connector to the external spade has broken. Hoping that is the problem. I will repair today and report back in case this helps any other members. Do you think anyone would be interested in my conversion of an original (but broken) push pump screen wiper switch to electric, or has this topic been 'done to death', even though I can't find it on the internet?
-
Thanks Pete. There doesn't appear to be any indentifying marks on the failed unit except for "H" inside the trumpet section. The halves are rivetted so this one looks like it could be difficult to open. You are right about difference in units, the "L" unit has small bolt heads around it so that is probably the repairable type. Unless anyone has any other thoughts I will try drilling out the rivets to get inside or buy the one on ebay at the moment.
-
Pete. Fair comment, but this was the original spade connector on the factory fitted loom!! It looked perfect but wasn't making a connection. Must have separated when I pulled the connector off the terminal post of the old knackered switch. I suppose it could have come adrift at any time and should be grateful it failed when it did.
-
I have a high note horn unit which appears to be faulty off a 1972 MkIV Spitfire. It refuses to make any noise and when put into circuit on its own makes the horn relay judder. Its friend, the low note horn works perfectly on its own using the same contacts. Using an electrical meter, there is no resistance reading across the terminal of the faulty unit. Is it possible to open the horn unit to repair it or am I just going to get a modern replacement?
-
I think the last time the clutch stuck, I ran the engine to warm everything up then revved the engine and engaged third or fourth gear with the clutch depressed with clear road in front!!!. It freed off without a problem but that was 20 years ago!! I really don't want to strip down the clutch. Does anyone know how to repair a faulty horn unit, don't want a modern replacement if at all posible. I have started a new thread in the hope that someone has experience of this.
-
I had problems with my windscreen wiper linkage moving in use. During a previous service/mot my garage tie-wrapped the wiper linkage to one of the supports on the front bulk head. When I repainted it the other week I had to cut off the one they fitted but it was great when I fitted a new one as I found that I could vary the tension on the linkage to alter the parking position of the wipers. Not original but very very useful and simple.
-
Thanks all. Never knew about the date of manufacture markings so will check before they are fitted. Will use old tyres over weekend as I try to free off clutch/flywheel.. usual problem but doesn't want to come free this time!!
-
Thanks Gents. I have looked at the Dunlop, also the Yokohama which also get a good write up in certain quarters and are slightly cheaper via Black Circles (one of their dealers is just down the road), not that I would put cost above safety but every little helps!!
-
Hi Everyone. This has probably been covered in other threads but can anyone tell me the current, modern tyre size for my 1972 MkIV Spitfire 1300 with standard steel rims. The old tyres simply say 155/R13,no profile or speed rating. There appears to be a lot of 'science' in choosing tyres today. I just need a set of reliable, safe tyres to replace my 25 year old ones to get through an mot. Any recomendations for brand, dunlop, contis, yokos etc would be gratefully received. Car will just be used for motoring, no rallies or track stuff!!
-
Just a final mention for anyone picking up this thread in the future. The problem was that the insulation hadn't been stripped back far enough before fitting the spade connector which pushes onto the switch terminal. There was a microscopic amount of solder in contact with the copper wire and the spade, so when the switch fell apart the simple act of pulling the spade connector off the switch terminal pulled the copper wire away from the solder, but still left the insulation clamped within the spade. Hence no circuit but visually perfect. Only the cry of "well it worked with the old switch perfectly!!!" This could happen with any lucar type spade connector and a simple replacement is the answer. I nearly ended up doing a full rewire!
-
Ok Chaps (and any Chapesses who are reading!). Finally identified the problem as a faulty joint at the spade connector out of the brake light switch. Fitted a new one and it finally works. Now on to replacing the glove box etc. Thanks for all your advice and input. Wait for the next posting and cries for help on another thread.
-
I have a crimping kit too... somewhere!! Thought as a last try that I would take off the spade connector from the switch and test the circuit through the bare wire just in case there is a dry joint in the connector etc. I also found this on ebay... http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/152575984601?_trkparms=pageci%3A64df7afe-57ee-11e7-baa7-74dbd18006c2%7Cparentrq%3Ad4141ad115c0ab4d6d54310dffff945a%7Ciid%3A10&_mwBanner=1 This listing has most of the colours of cable that we might need. Currently £3.50 per 5mtrs. I have spade connectors somewhere from the body off restoration 30 years ago but not the memory to remember where they are!!
-
Well done Doug. There is a multiway block connector behind the glove box. Every wire on the circuit diagram with the circle/cross symbol runs through it including a black which is not shown on the diagram. If this is new information (!!!) after 40 years, post it far and wide. The upshot is that there appears to be a break in the green/purple lead somewhere in the loom between the connector block and the brake switch spade connector. Looks like a case for two scotch locks and a new length of wire. Thanks to all for your help. Might have to revive this thread in another 6 months to keep the record going!!
-
Hi everyone. Thanks for the advice. I will ditch the dimmer but the problem still remains that there is no power from the (working) brake light switch to the spade connector at the dimmer relay. If the circle and cross symbol on the circuit diagram is a connector I can't see it - any ideas where it could be - and I don't want to strip out the dashboard/wiring loom at this point. Perhaps a single wire run from the switch to the lights might be an alternative. Not original but it would get me through an MOT!
-
Hi Everyone. I am having trouble with the brake lights on a 1972 Mk IV Spitfire. Putting it back on the road after 20 years, found the brake light switch in bits on the floor. Got a new one..... exploded into bits, reassembled and now working but no power to lights. Switch is passing power but nothing at the light dimming relay. Connected switch directly to the lights with a fly lead and works fine!! I notice on the wiring diagram (Haynes and BL workshop) a circle with a cross between the switch and dimmer relay. What is this, where is it, and could this be the problem!? Failing that any suggestions other than a break in the wiring loom? Thanks
