Badwolf
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I will be returning option 2 (S/S sports manifold) tomorrow. -
Yes, the first option. They also sent a JPR474 adapter
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You are right to be puzzled, as I was...... the answer is BOTH!!!
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I have laid out the full exhaust system next to the assembled sports manifold (with supplied adapter). The sports manifold with adapter fitted, lines up (and fits) perfectly with the joint between the front pipe (the one with the flange) and the rear. No cutting appears to be needed but I now realise that I have been sent an unnecessary front pipe. Paddocks insists that everything is correct despite me giving them all the details outlined previously in these posts and refuse to accept that I have too much kit. I have decided to send back the sports assembly and just connect the full system to my existing cast manifold, until it splits and worry about that later. It appears that no matter how much info you give a supplier, they still send out the wrong (extra) bits but in this case details of assembly should either be posted on their site or included with the parts (or am I really asking too much).
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It has a triangular flange/gasket and a single pipe with twin SU HS2 carbs. The exhaust saga has taken an interesting turn. in a discussion with the supplier I was told that the parts supplied were correct but the exhaust pipe with the flange had to be cut off to allow the sports manifold to fit!! I did point out that I had spent considerable time making sure that my order was correct for this mix of engine and body, and that no one had told me that it was necessarily to 'trim to fit' this mix of manifold and exhaust system. They told me that they would be happy to take back anything I didn't want be, as the parts were correctly supplied, would not refund the carriage. I have never come across anything in the forums and help desks that have said that a standard pipe had to be cut to accommodate a sports manifold and as there only appears to be sports on the market I would have though someone would have posted something somewhere!
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I sent a list of needed parts to Paddocks before I ordered because of the hybrid nature of the car, to make sure I got the correct stuff. The exhaust was blowing so I thought that whilst I was doing the exhaust in Stainless, I would replace the manifold at the same time. Not so simple. They told me that the 'standard' manifold was no longer available and that if I wanted to keep that style, I would have to source a second-hand one. They could supply me with a S/S sports version with a conversion piece to fit a standard S/S exhaust system. Ok, everything ordered. One of the guys there even picked up on the fact that I hadn't ordered a new engine manifold so I added that. When I opened the box, I have a sports manifold and full S/S exhaust. The manifold won't immediately fit the exhaust because there is no flange on it and the whole assembly is three feet longer than the car. After laying out everything it then became obvious that I didn't need the front down-pipe on the full exhaust system, but, of course, had ordered and paid for it. I now have to decide whether to send back the front down-pipe or keep my existing manifold and send back the sports S/S version. Something that I was trying to avoid as I have been sent more than enough wrong parts because of the Herald engine, before I realised what was under the bonnet, so now more delays.
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Thanks Pete/Karl. Also read elsewhere about taking off the nipple and dipping the trunnion with a pipe cleaner to check for grease. Will try that tomorrow, clean out what I can, and try again with the oil. Trunnion nipples are brand new and should be the correct size, but my experience with a Wanner gun is new too, so may not have had it properly aligned. Next thing on the agenda tomorrow is a new pinnion seal. Got the prop shaft loose but the old exhaust is proving difficult to shift and Pa**ocks have sent a full stainless sports manifold along with a complete standard exhaust system, dispite me asking them to make sure I had ordered the correct parts. What I now have is long enough for the new range of stretched spitfire. Sorry about all the edits, my tablet is not typing the correct letters... seriously.
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Front Trunions-The next question is about front trunions. I have tried to fill them with oil using a Wanner gun, but how do you know when they are full? After several squirts the oil just came out around the nipple/gun head. The trunions were new when fitted (and oiled) but since then the car has been garage serviced several times with the instruction "no grease in the front trunions", but who knows. They may have greased them and they are now bunged up. Over to you experts. The rears took an awful lot of grease but that eventually came out of the sides of the fittings.
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Thanks. Been all over the help files looking for that.
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Thanks Kevin 4" it is. Will get a gwp200 ordered later today. As an admin, can you tell me/direct me to instructions, to add/change the tags for this thread so I can change them as other items are discussed.
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Ok. The next question how do I tell exactly what I have on at the moment? The engine has an alternator, but I have no idea what was transferred, if anything, from the old spitfire engine to the herald engine when it was replaced. If fact I wasn't even aware that it was a herald engine until Paddocks queried the engine number (GE series) when I ordered the cooling hoses etc., earlier this year! Rimmers say gwp200 for all herald engines except GK series which should be gwp128, others say gwp128 for all 13/60s 1967/71.
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Looked on both Canleys and Firstline without much success. Does anyone know the correct model for a Herald 13/60 engine GE series. There appears to be different opinions on various sites as to whether I need a GWP128 or GWP200 (I don't have a parts list for the Herald engine, only the original Spitfire) As I've already been sent the wrong exhaust manifold, I'm trying to make sure that I get the correct one.
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As I fill it up, water is coming out of the drain hole. Should there be some kind of seal in there, and out of the three positions to fit, should the hole be up or down? I originally fitted it with the hole at 2 o clock, but have now rotated it to be straight down having read stuff on other sites. Still running but not as bad, will leave it overnjght to see how much water comes out.
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The latest disaster struck as I was checking out the work that I had done resetting my twin SU carburetors thanks to help from forum members. It appeared that the water pump gasket had given up due to a mixture of one bolt only being finger tight along with over tightening a slipping fan belt. So I took off the pulley assembly, cleaned up the faces and fitted a new gasket (with jointing compound) and put it all back together. Simple, I thought - until I refilled the system and found water coming from a small hole in the side of the pulley/pump. Can anyone advise me why there is water coming out here. Is it a normally sealed hole which has blown a 'core plug' due to excessive heat. Any ideas, as usual will be greatly appreciated. By the way, although its a MkIV Spitfire, the engine is a Herald 13/60. Only found out by accident recently that when the engine was replaced in the 1980s, it was from a Herald.
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Hi Everyone. In response to the tremendous amount of help that I have received from the forum members over the past few weeks, I have decided to open a new thread to keep all my woes together. I hope that some of my problems will help other members as I try to put my Spitfire back on the road after being mothballed for over 20 years. The topics already covers elsewhere are faulty tail/brake lights, ceased clutch, refurbishment of the horns, strange symbols in wiring diagrams, carburetor cleaning and setting, and other stuff which I will edit in as it comes back to mind. I have also converted my original pump windscreen washer unit to electric and will post details of this is due course for anyone interested. My thanks go to (in no particular order) dougbgt6, pete lewis, casper, colin lindsay, bordfunker and everyone else who has contributed to my woes and offered so much help. Some items covered in this thread which may be of interest to others - Page numbers may change slightly as this index gets longer - Page numbers will be added as I find them along with other items. Adhesive Bonding - Pages 35-41 Battery - Pages 60 & 61 Blade Fuse Box - Page 32 Bonnet Refurbishment - Page 41 onwards Brake/Clutch Master Cylinder Piston - Page 45 Clutch/Brake Master Cylinder Piston - Page 45 Courtesy Lights - Page 62 onwards Differential Front Oil Seal - Page 2 Door Badly Fitting - Page 22 'Dustless' Sanding Device -- Page 42 Exhaust Supply & Fitting - Page 1 Fuel Pipe Gates Barricade - Page 4 Fuse Box, Blade - Page 32 Gear Stick Refurb - Page 52 Gearbox Tunnel Cover - Page 56 to 64 (with breaks for battery problems) Glove Boxes - Page 62 Gutter, windscreen - Page 21 Hard Top Reconstruction - Page 42, 49 Heater Control Illumination - Page 39 Heater and plumbing - Page 9 Leaf Spring Garage Fitting Disaster - Pages 24, 28 Misfire/sooty plugs - Page 4 onwards Pets - Page 43 Petrol Cap Locking - Page 7 Plumbing and Heating - Page 9 Radio (cheap oriental) - Page 37+ 39 plus others Seatbelt Stowage - Page 57 Sooty plugs/Misfire - Page 4 onwards Sparkrite SX4000 (Electronic Ignition) - Page 32 Water Pump (Spitfire/Herald) - Page 1 Windscreen gutter - Page 21 Trunnions, Front, Cleaning Out - Page 1
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Ok gents. Adjusted and cleaned carbs according to all the instructions, guidance and general chat. Put it all back together. Tried to start it with no faith whatsoever..... fired up first time, running as sweet as anything. Wonderful.. then disaster.... water pump gasket blew. Turns out fan belt adjusted to tight and one water pump stud only fingure tight. Must have been like that for years. Adjusting the fan belt opened up the joint and instant hot shower. Going to start new thread next week to keep everything in one place. If you find my ramblings of any interest see you there.
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Karl, I like your idea of a running (pun not intended) set of postings. Thinking of doing something similar to keep all my enquiries and the pearls of wisdom from around the country together. Hope you don't mind me following your excellent example. Saves me keep chasing all over the forum looking for old replies!
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I think its outlined later in his posts where he says that Photobucket have changed their terms & conditions. It looks like the pictures were held in his Photobucket account and accessed from the TSSC site by a web-link. If his account has closed then all the links are useless as there is no account to access. One of the dangers of having your stuff on-line!
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Thanks. Had a look and think I will do something similar to keep all my worries and your help and advice in one place. Any offers for a header title!!! Sadly couldn't find the photo.
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Back to the strange symbol. My theory is that each different symbol refers to a separate junction box somewhere in the car. Mind you it is only a theory. Haynes (and the same convention is used in my BL workshop manual) couldn't use the same circle with cross for every junction box in the car and if my original thoughts on the stop light thread are correct in that a single symbol is used in numerous places on the circuit diagram to indicate that the wire goes through the same junction as others with the same symbol, that could be why there are different variations of the same type if symbol... I think!!!
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On my list for next week after I've cleaned and adjusted the carbs... they're running horribly rich. Maybe I should set up my own thread of woes and problems, then at least all the answers are in one place! Could put the electric washer conversion there as well, when I've got around typing it up.
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Thanks. More useless questions at a later date!! Off to try to sort out the carbs. Now I have all this great advice I feel a little more confident to tackle them. Still not freed off the clutch yet!!
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Gents... Sorry to ask awkward questions, some very obvious, but when it comes to engines this is my first attempt on my own. How do I find out what type of SU carbs are on my engine and why do they not have breather tube connectors like some of the other models. My rocker box has a breather pipe outlet which looks to have been spraying a fine mist of oil over the back of the carbs for the 10 years when I was previously running the car, but should this be connected somewhere and if so, where? The carbs have tags with AUD257 F & R (front and rear)
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Found some bigger bits of the original washer when I put the car away. It appears to be cork or fibre. I don't need a full refurb kit, just the top washer. Managed to stop the leak temporarily with a silicone o ring. Got to order a new silencer and diff oil seal, so will be going to Paddocks (local ish to me) so will see what they have.
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I am having trouble with fuel weaping from around the lid securing screw at the top of the pump assembly. Tried to tighten it up and the washer around the screw head disintergrated. Tried a small plumbers rubber washer and then a silicone O-ring. Neither work very well leaving a slight fuel leak which I believe is an mot fail as well as being a fire hazzard. The part is listed on Rimmers 520213 but not available. Can anyone advise some sort of replacement (quickly !!). The original may have been leather but now hard to tell what it was from the remains.
