GFL

Could very well be the OS UJ Making the noise, its normally very difficult to find any play because everything is under tension (Unless things have got really bad!) Worn UJ's can make knocking or ticking noises relevant to road speed and the halfshaft ones are normally the first to wear, its important when replacing them to ensure the correct thickness circlips are used to ensure no end-float (Is that the right word?) in the new UJ Cups.

Haggis My comments adjacent your queries? Regards Gary

Later cars simply had a hole with a Rubber flap over it?

Have you measured the Free Arc and Eye to Eye measurements as per the chart posted by Clive? Hopefully similar to the measurements detailed for the Mk1 Vitesse, your ride quality should be much improved with no bottoming out now😊

One of the reasons for a harsh ride on both types of Vitesse rear suspension is seized bolts and in particular the trunnions. If Adjustable dampers are fitted and adjusted with to hard a setting, this can also give a harsh and choppy ride.. The Mk2 Vitesse with the standard Lever Arm Dampers in good condition gives a good ride, probably better than the early Swing Axle suspension? Regards Gary

I Take it you have drained the old fuel and put some new in the Tank? 12 year old petrol will be no good.

The rear brake pipe links across and is fixed to the underside of the rear tub on the Mk2 Vitesse, with the clip shown as Item 39 on the Link shown by Clive and as below. I think the position of the clip is slightly forward of the chassis bridge.

Had a set on my first Vitesse, Spacers needed front and back about 15mm on the front to clear the Calipers and about 6mm at the rear to clear the Mk2 Wishbone trunnion's if I remember correctly. You may be ok on the Herald with the smaller Discs and calipers but the offset is not ideal.

Dave Yes, heat is not good, neither is voltage drop. With only around 12 Volts available, any small voltage drop is not good for the correct operation of the car electrics, the Head Lights in particular are much more efficient with the full 12 Volts and the use of relays and larger CSA cables is a good move. On my Old TR I was measuring only 10 volts at the PI Pump with the car running with the original puny wiring, so I.ran larger cables from a dedicated fuse with a separate earth , to the Original Lucas Pump via a relay mounted local to the Pump and used the original wiring to control the relay, I was getting just over 12 Volts at the pump with this modification😊. A lot of car electrical trouble is due to bad/corroded earth connections and rusty/dirty lucar connectors, good clean, tight low resistance connections all help to keep the volts up!

Solid conductor cable is not always higher current capacity? I work for a Mechanical/Electrical Company which have a Panel shop making Switch panels up to 2000 Amp ratings.? They use extensively what is called Tri-rated cable within these panels, this cable is multi-stranded and more flexible than standard PVC sheathed copper cables, hence easier to install inside panels. It is also rated higher than standard cables for current carrying capacity, it is also rated up to 105 degrees Centigrade (I think?) most normal PVC or XLPE type cables are 70 or 90 degree rated The higher current carrying capacity is mainly due to the multi-strand copper conductors, If I was at work I could show you the current carrying capacity tables out of my Wiring Regulations book, usually multi-strand Tri-rated conductors carry slightly more current than solid Conductors for an equivalent CSA, also the temperature rating helps too. When designing Industrial/Commercial buildings Electrical Installation circuits you can get one sometimes two sizes lower in the conductor CSA by using Tri-rated type cables instead of standard PVC or XLPE Insulated, it all depends on various factors though, grouping with other cables, type of Installation methods, Length of cable run, Circuit protection device, Etc? Similar factors apply for car wiring although the length of run and voltages are lower, the only really high current circuit on a car is the Starter Motor which can draw 300 to 400 Amps hence the larger CSA Cable from the battery to the Solenoid/Starter. Hope this helps explaining things Gary

I refurbished an original spring for my Vitesse after getting through two Reproduction ones which sagged😫 It may be worth a strip down, clean off all the rust, prime/paint and reassemble with new bolts and also replace the 8 rubber buttons (4 per side) which help reduce wear presumably? I also coated the leaves with a mixture of Dinitrol rust proofing fluid and graphite grease to help prevent wear. My spring had the same confusing writing although it doesn't matter which way round it's fitted as far as I'm aware. Regards Gary

Dave Those totals make more sense than some quoted? Some Books quote more cars made than Commission numbers available for the Mk2?!! Did you get them from the Archive at Gaydon? Gary

Welcome to the Forum Louis You state correctly that the Vitesse 6 Saloon was the most common model (22,818 Made according to my records) but it must surely be the rarest one around these days? Have you considered a restoration to standard factory specification? Although the 1600 is the least powerful of the six cylinder engines, it is extremely smooth and willing. I've seen a couple of Vitesse's with Rover V8 Engine's fitted, but as stated above they need the drive train completely upgrading, together with Chassis and Front Bulkhead modifications depending on the make of V8 fitted. I would suggest restore as Original, but it's your car. Good luck with it Regards Gary

Roger Excellent idea with the Fuel cooler, I was going to fit one on the Low Pressure return side of the fuel system on my TR5 but ended up selling the car before I got round to it! Fuel vaporization on the Lucas PI System is a common problem, I ran the standard Lucas Pump on my car and couldn't believe how hot the Lucas pump got? On a trip to the TSSC Santa pod event a few years ago on one of the Hottest days of the year I could hardly touch the casing of the pump, it was too hot! I'm sure the fuel cooler will help with smooth running? Gary

Looks like an Early 948 Herald Convertible to me, the Registration could be 300 RTE or 308 RTE?

POR 15 is a very popular paint for chassis, underbody and Suspension components. My cars underside and suspension was painted with it by the PO, seems to be lasting well?

Must agree with Clive & Pete, the Newton Moulded sets fit perfectly and are excellent Quality. They will be cheaper from one of the Traders, I got mine from Canley Classics, but James Paddocks are competitive too. If Rimmers have a special offer on they may well be the Cheapest? They look great when fitted, especially around the tricky Gearbox tunnel, here's a set I fitted in my old Vitesse during it's rebuild around 2006. Regards Gary

Vinda Welcome to the Forum, your Fuel pump should have a Priming Lever at the bottom, if you operate it up and down for a few seconds until you see fuel appearing in the Glass chamber the car should then start after a couple of turns on the starter? I used to have to do this with my Vitesse if I left if for any length of time, as the Fuel would drain back or evaporate, never did know which? Regards Gary

They are not essential but neaten up the look of the front edge, you also need the two special shaped Stainless clips at each end which secure it in place. Luckily I had the finisher and these two clips in good condition when I was rebuilding my car (See attached photo, you can just about make them out). I have seen them listed on e-bay before,so you may get lucky. Cheers Gary

Have a search on E-Bay, quite a rare Item I'm afraid and no one makes them as far as I'm aware? Regards Gary

I didn't bother replacing this when I rebuilt my Vitesse, or the water absorbing Sponge Seal Item 35 which can hold water an encourage rust. Just make sure that lower area of the tank around the drain plug is well rust proofed with Waxoyl or Dinitrol wax. I then fitted a suitably sized rubber Grommet to the Drain plug floor hole.

That looks like the position of the Drain Tap for draining off coolant? It looks like someones removed the Drain tap.

Don't forget the clip to hold it secure and out the way of the Driveshafts!!

Joel Early cars did have the pipe routed on the Chassis Bridge, so maybe that's what the PO did? Canley's Sketch for the Vitesse 6 rear brake pipe route below

Yes, Fuel prices the cheapest they've been for a long time here in the East Midlands☺️ I suppose we can still drive our classics so long as we don't get out and socialize?