Clive

To fit the reverse light switch you will need not only the inhibitor switch and bracket, but very likely the end rod and small "arm" on the end. Or the whole remote would be easier......

Not so sure, I think they are the same ratio. I know the dolly 1850's all had very long first gears, but at the mo can't find the detail. I would put a pound on them being the same.....

ebay......loads of them

Good point Andy. Re reading the OP it does seem Mr 1904 may think that! But I have an early dolly 1850 OD box here, and it is identical to a GT6 except it is J type. A sought after box I believe (and hope!)

How stripped? the threads may be saveable with care, or a helicoil or something. Almost every Triumph I have owned has had original pumps, and never had one fail. And that is quite a few cars, and many many miles...... The dellorto car would have used a mechanical pump, but the engine was a modern, so couldn't do it.

I had a facet (silvertop, way better than the cube types) on my spit with twin dellortos. Had to use a pressure regulator as well as the 4-5psi was too much. The mechanical pumps work well, but repro ones seem to be variable in quality. HUCO are a brand which are flexible in positioning (facet must be near the tan and mounted low) pretty quiet and ideal in terms of pressure. I suspect a pump off a carb equipped motorbike would work well.

Not if it is a dolly 1850 3 rail box (most dolly 1850 had the later single rail box, different animal) I assume you know about the rest of the conversion parts shorter prop, od gearstick or column switch, od wiring (j type simpler but d type not hard), Metal gearbox mounting plate and rubber mount, speedo cable and angle drive wort noting diff ratios too......(od 3.27, non od 3.89) but the overall top gear is identical. Personally I would have OD with a 3.63, but 3.27 would be good for cruising at speed.

Ah, but fitting relays WILL make the lights brighter. the switches and wiring in the car cause a voltage drop, fitting relays will reduce the drop and mean the ight switch only has to switch a very small current, meaning it is far less likely to burn out... About to go and finish the wiring up of a number of relays on my "new " car, and if I can double check all the wiring for various bits (EFI ! ) may even turn the key later as well. Maybe.

All gt6 and vitesse used the d type OD, and it is not an issue at all. Eary Dolomite 1850 used the same 3 rail gearbox, but fitted with a j type od which is stronger. However, I have never damaged or had to work on any of my d types over the years (but one j type needed a cone clutch) so either will be fine. Be carefu you do not get an early vitesse 1600 setup. It will fit. But avoid them, only 3 synchro and weaker gearbox. Late GT6 slightly stronger box IIRC but not really significant.

I think (being cynical) you need to be careful if the "expert" offering advice has a vested interest.... fitting twin HS6 carbs looks good on paper. Bigger carbs = faster. But usually not the case as they can easily be too big and only of benefit at high rpm (not used that often by most) at the expense of lower down the rev range losing torque. HS6 on a 2.5 yes, that is what was fitted at the factory. But on a 2L road car, no. Same as camshafts and many other potential modifications. they are not a good idea in isolation, and as a package you can end up with a car that is not as good to drive as a standard one..... As an aside, many rolling roads no longer keep a selection of needles. However, when I took my car along, the tuner (very well respected mini racer and preps cars for many historic events etc) had 2 goes at reprofiling the needes which took about 10 mins or so to get a flat CO curve, which means an even mixture. Good improvement in driveability and economy too.

The trouble with on-line only stuff is that the club effectively becomes a forum only with articles attached. At which point many members would be questioning why they are paying a membership. re the tax thingy, my understanding is that much of our membership fees pay for the magazine which has a notional cost. And magazines are VAT free (at the moment) Which is why all club magazines have a "price". Saves a fortune in VAT.... Something like that anyway.

Monroe are pretty much bog standard dampers. So no, it won't upset the handling, and assuming the old dampers are worn (you may be surprised, I have replaced dampers and found the 20+ year old ones are stiffer (in a good way) than the new replacements) should improve matters. The black standard (ie cheap) dampers just about do the job, but for many people are adequate.

TR5 profile is the next step. make sure you match the CR of the head. Be warned, having destroyed several 1500 cranks you need to take great care and take no liberties. An oil cooler (with thermostat) and very good quality oil are a must. I think setting the rev limit at a safe level would be wise too...... And get everything balanced. And IF you can find them, VP1 big end bearings....same as TR6, 2000 etc etc

restoration car? make no difference at all. Have it built to the spec you want........just use the very best quality parts you can find.

if we are talking a 12k+ car it may make a little difference, but not really value, more who would buy it. Buy on condition, it is far far more important. Attention to detail and quality of restoration.......

The first people to do the conversion were experimental type people, and the type 9's were selling for £10 a time (I jest not, only 10 years ago) whereas od conversions were even then £200. Plus the type 9 is stronger, and will cope better with uprated engines and cars driven hard. Then the commercial companies got involved, notably frontline, who seem to take the approach that if it bolts up, it is OK. But that is not the case. And the disruption to the trim is always understated...... You need to see a converted car to appreciate the extra work involved. The other half of the equation is that the quality of many gearbox components has plummeted. Mike Papworth has an enviable reputation, largely I expect because he reuses good (used) components rather than substandard new parts where appropriate. And I repeat, unless a car is driven hard (standing starts, fast gearchanges and so on) a std, well built gearbox/od will last many years. My last 1500 od has now been in 4 cars I owned, all were used VERY hard in motoring events, and when stripped it was just one synchro that had some wear and needed replacing (good used one).

Any chance of a pic Mr Cookie? especially the stalk fitted in the car. I need new belts , but do not want long dangly stalks. Like the look of the 15cm versions (500/15) but they may be too short.....decisions decisions....

Nothing here either............

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Securon-Seat-Belt-500-30-Lap-Diagonal-Belt-x1-/250356161317?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CommercialVehicleParts_SM&hash=item3a4a63db25 kcponline, I just had a look and cookie has fat fingers

Think carefully about all this. If you fit a type 9, you want to check which gear ratios you will get, most type 9's have a first that is hopelessly low compared to the close ratio GT6 box. Plus there are some issues with using the short input shaft boxes, it seems many just do not reach the spigot bearing. If you are told it is not a problem (frontline, who produce the kits, seem to know nothing about this issue!) Be aware of the changes to the interior too..... And it may be worth speaking to Mike Papworth about getting your box or OD rebuilt. I think you may be surprised about what he can offer, at fair prices. And with an excellent reputation......And unless you are particularly hard on the gearbox, it should last well. It is very easy to get lulled into things. I would expect to do a type 9 conversion for about £500-£600 or so? but that is using a secondhand box.

I had that issue, I think the new original type flasher units are not too clever..... Fitted an electronic one, needed an extra earth connection, and perfect at all times now. All our old cars have them fitted now.

Nope.all the ct ones have beebeen superb, people very respectful of each other, overtaking by "invitation" with the exception of one stag driver, who was a bit overzealous, but never got too close to anybody else. I think normal trackdays can be iffy, but I think club organised ones are excellent. Good way to enjoy the cars.

Not racing, trackday. No racing allowed..... Organised through CT who have run trackdays there for a few years, but CSMA has taken it over this year. Hopefully will get my Toledo sorted for the day, it is now fitted with a 1850 engine so hopefully quicker than the old 1500 "fast road" engine (that 1500 was nothing but trouble) Hopefully my spitfire will be around early next year for track/autosolo type duty. That will be quicker (160bhp, CV rear end with rear disks, rather heavily modified) There are plenty of driving things available for Triumph types.....IMO they are more fun and involving than static shows (but I fully understand many people enjoy shows, heck, I go to a few)

Not me! Goodwood trackday in November is hopeful though.....

If a full resto, probably worth going to original colour if you like it...... Always nicer to have original stuff (that is rich coming from me!) Getting to use the car, plenty of good things to do.......driving the cars is the best bit though.