Clive

A pic of the other end of the visors would help....a lot

Colin, are you sure about that? well, the not fitted etc? I thought they came fitted, and they are teh same (I believe) as the TR cars as they share the same windscreen frame? The herald thing did occur to me, but I dismissed it as an age thing. The mirror on my mk3 was small, and just a bit of mirror glass with plastic edge trim. Held by a claw type arrangement. I remember that, I broke mine..

They could be too close centrally, and need moving out on the brackets? And is the mirror correct? It looks a little wide to me? (but it has been some years since I last had a mk3) As an afterthought, they are the correct sunvisors?? I know they got difficult to source (good ones still are I expect) and people do improvise.

Oh yes, parts list. To fit vitesse/gt6 brakes everything is different. Upright, stub axle, hubs, bearings, steering arms and the cars use a separate calliper mount like the early heralds (but with different spacing for the calliper bolts) Along with the master cylinder which should be 0.70 bore. Easiest route here is to get a complete setup off a car, but then you do not know the history etc.

As long as you are using decent pads, and all is well (I would expect no less!) then no. The vitesse obviously had more power, but was also a fair bit heavier. Of course, if you start to experience brake fade, then it would then be of benefit. Alternatives include bolting a GT6/vitesse disc in place of the spitfire one, and using aftermarket alloy calipers or the heavy princess 4 pots. Or even (as I have on my project car) redrilled capri vented discs, but that is faff as had to get the hubs machined to get what I would call adequate clearances. And will I need vented? not sure yet....

picture required I think.

Sounds good! I reckon that will be worth a few horses and dollop of torque....

identical. In fact the whole car is 98% the same, just a few tweeks to switchgear and so on.

You just need to learn the foibles of a manual choke. However, it may need a tweek on the fast idle, check the manual for the settings.

I would guess about £250 to remove/refit engine, plus whatever engine work is done. If your engine really needs a full rebuild (ie rebore, crank and cam etc) that is about 2K. However, if you use asomebody who knows what they are doing, the bores may just need a hone and re-ring, the cam may be fine, indeed the crank may be fine just need a reshell. Any/all may apply You do not need a triumph specialist. These cars are not complicated and any decent classic friendly garage can do the remove/refit, the machining work is usually put out to an engineering shop. However, do your research on what components they use. While the engine is out there may be a few other bits that may be worth doing. Clutch if worn is the obvious one (again try to find a laycock or proper NoS Borg and Beck as opposed to the new B+B ones that are just not the same)

No problem at all with that. BTW part of my job in an analytical lab was testing for asbestos, so I am well aware of all the issues.

But have you compared greenstuff to other pads? Being honest, vitesse brakes with decent pads will stop a vitesse pretty efficiently (I could lock mine up easily, that was with fairly sticky tyres on a dry road) so a herald would be even easier. I just don't think the greenstuff are much better than the white box pads, and not a touch on 1144 or asbestos pads. (I happen to have a good supply of asbestos pads for both my triumphs, I buy them whenever I see them, often less than £10 a time)

I am sure people may know a rough spec for the needles (I don't but the info is out there somewhere) but a rolling road will either have a selection of needles, or will profile one to get a perfect setup across the whole rev range. This is very difficult to do at home unless you have a wideband lambda sensor and controller to check the CO levels when driving.

TR6 never had HS6. Probably from a 2.5 saloon (at some point!) or even TR7. As Pete says, best bet will be the strombergs. Overhaul them if needed, and they will give good service for a long time. Just carry a spare diaphragm.

Yes, otherwise you are only setting them up at idle. You will undoubtidly need new or repfrolied needles. However, unless it is a heavily modified engine aiming to produce 130bhp or more, I doubt you will benefit at all. The smaller carbs will also give better driving for normal road use etc etc etc and the larger carbs will use more fuel, as when you put your foot down they let in way more air, so fuel will need to be thrown in to stop the engine stalling.

Has it been on a rolling road and the needles swapped to give the correct fuelling across the rev range?

No, don't. They are dusty and little gain over cheapo pads when I tried them. Better off by a very very long stretch with 1144's (or old stock asbestos pads which are excellent, nearly as good as the 1144's)

I did pull the hubs, but I had a hub puller available.... However, If your pilot drill is long enough, choose a sensible position to drill (IIRC approx level with the hub centre, towards the rear of the car, give or take), and do that using the hole left after you have knocked existing studs out. I have used stepped cone drills with great success for larger holes, may be a thought? And use a grommet once finished.

probably not what you want to hear but....why are you fitting a servo? If the brakes are not working well enough, it is a fault somewhere. A vitesse should stop very efficiently without a servo, but worn discs or poor pads, let alone slack wheel bearings or brake hoses that are beyond their best can all take a toll. Also the brake pedal linkages can develop wear. All that should be checked before considering a servo. And then only if there is a specific reason, they do not improve the brakes, only means you don not have to press the pedal as hard.

Ditto. If you have the head off, you could drill the oilway a little larger in teh block and head, then put a short length of tube to sleeve teh join. Bit of sealant and it is less likely to leak.... Or, tap a thread in the block and head, blank the oilway and use an external oil feed that has been reduced in diameter to a mm or something... Or wipe the engine every now and again...

A grand suggestion there Colin. That needs to be put to Garth, the holders are effectively worthless now so sending one of the many (no doubt) in stock would free up a little space plus benefit the overseas members. Thay may even enjoy having a bit of old english charm attached to their cars. personally, I am glad to see the back of the tax disc........

There is much swappage of stuff with all these cars. Yep, the proper vit6 diff had the larger flanges on the output shafts, but were small diameter inside. Rather fragile really. Yours may have been a rebuilt special at some point?

Just flush it both ways several times.....usually loads of silt comes out, but that is not always enough to revive a heater. A good friend had to take his heater valve out to get his heater to work, even though he swapped valves and both seemed to work ok off the car. Really odd....

Are you sure about that? I am certain that the prop used the smaller bolts and the biox and prop both used the "aquare" flange as opposed to the round. The output 1/4 shafts on the diff did use the larger bolts though.... http://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/different-differentials/ covers the diff, http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-vitesse-1600-gearbox-mainshaft the gearbox showing the small bolt square flange.

I would happily recommend pertronix (sold in the UK as aldon, just a sticker added!) Cheapest place was retrorockets, paid in usd, but sent out from Guildford! (well, that was the last one I bought, good few years ago) I believe it is aldon that the club sell. Make sure you have a decent rotor arm too. The new black ones are truly rubbish, but the red ones are fine. There is an explanation on the "distributor doctor" website.