Clive

I doubt it is the last one registered, on the basis that once the mk2 came out, who would buy a mk1?? (no offence, but think of it as a focus etc, everybody wants the new version when it come out...) I think some cars hung about for years before being sold (nothing specific to vitesse, I think spitfire in the case I read) And don't get hung up about the cars history, the important bit is to use it and enjoy using it. A lot.

Courier is the club magazine The commission number is called the VIN number on the V5 (possible the chassis number? can't remember...) Commission plate is just in front of the passenger door, under the bonnet. http://www.fairpoint.net/~herald948/database/guide.html

I too am a fan of the pertronox units, aldon just put their own sticker on them Cheapest from retrorockets, or at least used to be. As to timing, I do it by ear. If th ecar wont fire when the ignition is changed over, get an assistant to crank the car while you twiddle the dizzy. Once started, adjust so idles at about 800rpm or so. Then take for a drive. If the car pinks, retard the ignition until it stops (under load) if no pinking, advance until it does, then back off enough to stop the pinking. Pretty quick to do, and probably the very best timing setting you will get (as fuel etc is not what it was when the cars were new, let alone dizzy condition/advance curve)

I have seen leather MX5 seats in a mid/pale blue. Very comfy seats in an mx5......

Engines were identical from the factory. Only difference is the sump and poss the oil pump (as the dolly has the oil bowl of the sump at the front, and the oil pickup pipe may be angled differently)

Don't worry, the 4.11 works a treat with a 1500 and OD. John Kipping always reckoned it was the best combo for a herald, yours is pretty close to a herald so stick with it (I have been using it in my Toledo for 5-6 years, and the only issues I had were from being rather heavy with the right foot on track, respect the red line and the 1500 will be fine. Exceed the red line, and it is dangerous territory, from hard won experience) I had issues with that flipping exhaust gasket. I t got better after I filed the manifold and downpipe surfaces flat (they were very lumpy) but drilling/tapping a larger thread solved the problem....I used 10mm with cap head bolts, as I own a 10mm tap and the bolts were easy to get.

I always believed you had to change all the rubber seals. So masters, wheel cylinders, and I assume clutch system too. And having tried silicone, I went the other way and went back to mineral. On the basis if I got a leak and needed fluid, there is no chance of getting hold of silicone easily. And changing the fluid every few years is no big effort either.

Check them carefully for wear, any scuffing or pitting will mean new ones. Avoid "unbranded" ones, there is again some real tat around. I think the main suppliers have timkin or similar (SKF, RHP etc) and well worth the small extra outlay if needed.

No advantage in drilled...... Really, std discs, decent pads and the difference is remarkable compared to worn discs, cheap pads and unloved brakes in general. I trust you will strip the rear brakes, clean up the backplates, grease sliders, new cylinders and so on? read up on setting th erear brakes up too. Spitfire brakes are actually very good.

If worn much at all I would replace the disks too for what they cost. And if (big if) try finding asbestos shoes and pads, they are way better than the "white box" pads. Or fit mintex 1144 though 3-4x the price of the cardboard pads (but are similar in performance to asbestos pads)

http://www.vitessesteve.co.uk/Servicemanuals.htm in that link there are (free) PDF's of vitesse workshop manual and others that are very handy. All the dimensions are in the service manual....

Not easy to tell by sight/feel. You can feel the backlash in the crownwheel and pinion, it is very tiny if any, and very slight. Do not confuse with the usual backlash in the differential part that can be quite large but is worn thrusts and unlikely to be an issue. As to reconditioners, Mike Papworth has a very good reputation, though if it is CWP noise it may be permanent, only cure being new...... However, a good reconditioner can get the noise levels low unless badly worn or poor quality parts.

3/4 bore is common on some other cars, and also cheap. Often sold as "uprated" which is nonsense! Changing to a .7 will give approx 15% more pressure at the brakes for the same pedal effort (though longer pedal travel) And I had a .75 cylinder on my spitfire, but that had 4 pot brakes so not comparable. Late GT6 fitted with a servo had a .75 too.

I believe dolomite and another model (brain fade on that!) all have different lengths, so there are ready made alternatives without welding. And make the pointa bit of extra should be perfectly OK. I would add about 1/2" but be aware you will need to adjust the brakes more often. But also make sure everything is working spot on. It makes a world of difference. I recently welded up some arms to repair worn bits, cleaned/lubricated and readjusted everything. Vast improvement (despite passing MoT as was)

Which is why I have 2 brand new unipart waterpumps in a cupboard. People do not realise the benefits of buying quality parts when they find them, even if it means storing them until required. At the moment I think buy proper Borg and beck clutch kits (not the recent ones that are made by firstline but branded B+B, not a patch on the proper ones). They do turn up regularly, buy now while they are available. And if you can find them, asbestos brake pads and shoes.....

Brainfade. There was somebody who had a car on the rollers at CCK and it gave a low result, maybe I am just getting too old! As to the power output, you can fiddle RR results all sorts of ways, high tyre pressures or the way the "drag" part is done. More important is how the car drives, a tune should make the car feel much better. lso, in a mk2 I think it used a thin air filter, they are VERY restrictive so vitesse type filters will give a nice bit of extra. As long as the needles are change/reprofiled to stop it running lean.

Weber do not need much pressure, 2psi should be fine. Just as long as the pump can flow enough. On a 1500 I would expect the std pump to be fine. If you want a leccy pump, the cube facets are cheaper, for a reason. The red top pumps are superior. And remember to fit as low as possible in the boot, they are not meant to suck. And remember you may well need a pressure regulator as these pumps can put out too high a pressure for the webers. Alternatives would be Huco, possibly facet posiflow, or a pump off a carb'd bike. All will be more than enough for the 100-110bhp I am guessing you are expecting.

http://www.speedycables.com/index.html http://www.speedograph-richfield.com/html/speedometer.html may be able to help, google is your friend!

Sounds about right. I wonder why the difference from cck?

The standard gearstick on the t9 is several inches back, close to the handbrake (on my current car the handbrake has moved back several inches too) Gor gearstick I chopped the end off the t9 and welded a 5/16 threaed section so I could use a nice knob off a herald, very understated. On a 2 litre flywheel you can use dolly 1850 clutchplate, so very simple. I am certain the 6 1/2" 1300 clutch does not have a direct fit. I think the 1500 version may have a ford item that is suitable though? maybe 7" from a small engined escort or sierra or whatever. http://davemacprops.co.uk/ other propshaft places are good too. I actually used bailey morris, and go the freelander UJ's fitted. But I plan on 150+bhp....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-X-9W-LED-Eagle-Eye-Car-Light-Back-Up-Reverse-Tail-Daytime-Running-Lamp-/360704537323?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53fbaa72eb could be a neat fix?

It is not an uncommon conversion, and there will be guides/how to stuff on the net somewhere, sadly the old forum here had some useful stuff, but all gone now. I have a t9 behind a zetec in my spitfire, both my old one (now gone) and my project car. So have an idea. Big issue is gear lever position, it is very different to the original gearbox. So work is needed to modify the gearbox tunnel. Buy a new prop from Dave Mac in coventry, better value than modifying your old one I reckon. Clutch is a bit of an issue. I think Frontline are the only supplier of a suitable clutch plate to fit the existing cover. I would be tempted to get the flywheel modded to take a ford clutch kit. At least then you can get an off the shelf kit rather than rely on a special plate and one supplier. I am sure others have ideas too....

Simon, I believe we are trying the Laughing Fish at Isfield. I made a call to them, and it sounded encouraging. Seemed very welcoming. I am sure Martin will put something in the magazine (I hope so!!)

No. and No.

Darren, the quality of the rebuild kits is often poor. New synchro rings tend to be made of cheese, so I would be finding a non-od box and stripping it for parts! New layshaft pins are often rubbish too, record is 3 miles (that was from a main supplier) as it was not hardened at all. They offered a replacement, offer declined. Best approach is to use good original parts, swap synchro rings around and replace what is needed. (all this is from a man I know who builds excellent gearboxes and now even makes his own gaskets....)