Clive

There is a button for "view new content" which works well...... (it is next to the search box)

Yes. Not all cars had tachos fitted though. And there are 2 types of electronic tacho, one is easier to use than the other IIRC. But can't remember which is which. Alternatively you could get somebody to convert the mechanical tacho to electronic. More expensive, but will look better (I am assuming the saloon tachos have a different style to TR6, but may well be wrong on that)

It is simple really. My spitfire is a triumph. It may have a ford engine and gearbox, it may have a CV rotoflex rear. But it is still a triumph. However, some people seem to not want my car to be called a triumph any more. Those are the people I refer to, as I hope was made clear. I find that attitude offensive. And I do not want to be part of a club or forum where that intolerance is acceptable. I have no issues with people who like originality. Or polishing their cars. I prefer to see the cars used as they should be and not left in garages 99% of the time, but then it is the owners who are missing out on using them. Reminds me of when my wife saw a herd of TR's at Dover waiting to board the ferry. She was with a group of her friends on a weekend jolly. Spoke to one owner who was a bigoted idiot. He thought it sad that Gill actually drove our Triumphs, and that we had used our cars on track and in competitive events. Gill used rather stronger language about that fool. In all honesty, I believe the TRR to be a club that encourages its cars to be used as much as possible, though a new breed of owner is changing that. However, I have no remorse for my comments. If you have no issues with my car, or others, being called Triumphs, just because of modifications, you have no reason to be offended. Off on hols now......

I too don't like model specific sections here or elsewhere, the latest posts view is good, and after that a decent search facility.

Thats it. the slider needs to move freely, and works as you say.

I have found they work well? however, usually need to be cleaned/degreased and all the old muck removed, and then a smear of grease. If you don't use them the door will indeed bounce/rattle (even more) They do not wear, only the striker to edge seems to get worn.

063 batteries fit well and are well priced. They work very well, terminals at the back of the battery, small gap at the side of the box. Think an 075 will fit, just (but get confirmation)..... sorry, not with the car!

I would be taking the plugs out and spinning the engine on the starter. That takes all the effort out of turning the engine over. Pressure can take a while to build as pete says. As to not starting, it is missing either fuel (ideally not old stuff) oxygen, compression and spark. The last is the usual culprit, either lack of or at the wrong time.

Keep an eye out for yellow mkIV, reg is XNR something J. Rollbar fitted. Should be on the road in April I reckon, but will need some fettling I expect before it will be ready for full testing!

Indeed. Anything that means the cars can be used reliably and regularly as intended. And I like it when people are inventive and progress the cars. I also like seeing some very original cars too, but to me the enjoyment is in using them. I can understand using overdrive in preference to a T9 for all sorts of reasons. It makes sense, but then again so does a t9 especially if a car has no overdrive. Not so sure about the supplied kits though, frontline appear to have little understanding of the 6 cylinder conversion. Maybe we will bump into each other sometime, and you could try my Triumph which is t9 equipped (along with a zetec, amongst other subtle modifications).

Which GT6? if non-rotoflex, check both driveshafts are the same length. (late GT6 had a 1" longer shaft, so could cause the issue) Next, it may be a problem at the front of the car Jack the car up centrally front, then rear, see if that helps show which end the problem is. Final suggestion from me. The diff mountings may be bent/out of alignement. A very small amount may cause the issue. Not easy to check either.

I applaud your approach. And the one thing that sticks out is that there are genuine specialists out there who can supply decent parts for the ford box. This seems almost impossible for the Triumph boxes, and the number of boxes for spares (seems the best solution to poor new parts) is drying up. As to costs, there is little in it if you start with a non-od box. May even be cheaper, as most of the OD boxes on sale at Donnington last year were in serious need of a rebuild, so £200+ for a box to rebuild. Prop is new cost, no different to an all triumph prop and little more than getting an old one rebuilt/balanced. Clutch plate on a spitfire is more admittedly, and you need a bellhousing adaptor. Mounts etc similar. Guess the real difference is changes to the gearbox tunnel. What I really do not like though is when people look down their noses at cars fitted with (for example) a t9 box and claim it is no longer a Triumph. I wish they would go off and form their own exclusive club where they can be all self-righteous by themselves. Really, it bugs me.

And check the battery cable has clean terminals and are done up tight. I would also check the engine is not overly stiff to turn by hand (ie should turn fairly easily with all plugs out) Otherwise borrow a known good starter if possible from another owner!

Just to reinforce Kevins point, do not do it. Spend your money on millers css oil if you are concerned about looking after the engine. Or an oil cooler with thermostat if you intend doing fast motorway trips or drive the car moderately hard.

How is it easy to rectify? I really do not see how. The club has not ignored it at all, they learnt a few lessons by making the forum open to non-members (a very positive step) and publicising the forum in the printed magazine. Links on the club webpage. What else is viable in terms of advertising teh forum? It will only grow if it becomes a valuable resource. And the way it is going it may take a while. Remember the CT and TRR forums are both mature and have a lot of traffic. That takes time.

Halfords sell one! more expensive though. Many of those LED versions will be fine, they are rated at 20A. Just ned to add an earth wire, then uber reliable and stable flashes.

the cheap black ones are just about OK. Search the autojumbles and you will find much better standard ones (old stock etc) and not expensive. If you drive the car hard, you may want adjustable shocks. I chose Koni (as they are probably the best, they are valved better than spax/gaz etc but are not height adjustable)

Reason I suspect the bottom joint is that the column is moving in the engine bay from the description. And yes, push the wheel down, you ay need to just pull it back a little if it is scraping on the cowl though. Access is from above, between engine and suspension tower. And at an odd angle. Hence tricky...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-SPITFIRE-1500-Outstanding-needs-finishing-/311283572306?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4879f25e52 That may be an excellent place to start! Probably needs a bit more than a week, maybe 50hrs of professional time plus some parts, but it looks like genuinely the hard work is done. Really good spitfires 5-10K add a another 3-5k for a GT6. Dealers seem to get a hefty premium over private sellers, often buying privately then adding 50-100% markup.

Sounds like the pinch bolt (one or the other) on the steering coupling needs tightening. A bit of a fiddle to get in there, but once in there it is OK. The coupling is literally attached to the steering rack. If the coupling itself is an issue, I would suggest getting a solid UJ version (but yours sounds like it just needs tightening)

If doing the bodywork yourself, get some tuition if possible. There are often evening classes for welding and so on. As to mechanical tools, as a start a set of AF spanners, plus socket set and screwdrivers. Pliers, wirecutters and some mole/vise grips. If you are feeling flushed you can buy new, Hkalfords professional stuff is actually pretty good and well priced when on offer. Ask though before spending big amounts! I would also invest in an angle grinder (115mm/4 1/2") with thin cutting discs, some grinding discs and some flapwheels. Maybe wire brush attachment too. Along with a full face mask http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p53860 or similar. Do not under any circumstances buy a silverline grinder. I would spend £50 and get a makita or Bosch professional. Much nicer to use, last much much longer. As to help/advice, join a Triumph club with a meeting near to you. They will help/advise and probably offer assistance in exchange for biscuits/bacon/tea etc.

Some of this depends on what aspects (none, some or all) you intend doing youself. Get the car home, get it up in the air so you can get a good idea of exactly wants needs doing to the body. Often rust lurks out of sight, but will need to be addressed. Then there is the ultimate goal. Do you want a showcar, trackday/rallycar, a tidy tourer or everyday car. Think carefully about that, people often complete a car and then realise it is not really what they wanted (typically building a fast road/trackday car that is too harsh and has a peaky engine) However, there is nothing quite as pleasing as getting a car to run and at least move (if not brake!) under its own steam. It can be a real boost. But do take it easy, make sure everything is OK before trying to start it etc.

Don't bother. The last car I worked on and failed on handbrake had a "new" kit fitted. The hold down springs were too soft, let the shoes move about too much. Just re-use the old ones. But, well worth stripping the backplate, cleaning everything up, smear of copper grease on the contact areas etc. And get the adjuster off, strip/clean and re-grease. Makes adjustment so easy. I tend to push a bit of rubber hose over the adjuster too, after smearing with grease, to help stop the elements getting into the thread.Probably does nothing, but cut square it looks pretty watertight.

Have a look at vitesse wiring, they have a fusebox, albeit simple. Otherwise very very similar to a herald. Or indeed, spitfire. I would expect a fusebox close to the dynamo control box would be easiest? fusing the wires from that would be a simple solution?

Brackets look correct to me. Certainly they are not herald of any variety. In fact the visor may be proper spit ones, not 100% though. Still think the mirror is incorrect!