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Adrian Saunders

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Everything posted by Adrian Saunders

  1. The Ford one pictured suits 5/16” tube and a 5/16” mounting hole. Our chassis’s have 1/4” holes in between the front and small centre outrigger for plastic clips and then 5/16” holes from the small outrigger to the rear for the metal clips.
  2. How about this Ford part. As long as it’s not MG, it’s ok.
  3. Hmm, I’m not sure exactly what I did differently tonight but, both lines are in the clips now. I did check the clips with a 3/16” drill bit before fitting them and they are a very close fit. I think that I was just more patient tonight. I do however need a different clip at hole adjacent to the flexible brake line bracket. I need it to stand-off from the chassis, not pull the tube right to it. I would use one of the plastic, push-in type but the hole is too big at 5/16”. It’s 1/4” for the push-ins. Anybody have a suggestion?
  4. I tried my metal ones off the chassis, still too tight for the 3/16” line. I know I can get more but I don’t want the same problem. Where did you get yours from?
  5. Good afternoon Richard. How did you fix the P clips to the chassis? Space is limited with body on.
  6. I’ve got an issue with the metal clips that secure both 3/16” brake & 5/16” fuel tubes to the chassis. They don’t suit the 3/16 tube! They are too small. Has anyone else experienced this? Is the only solution to use the plastic ones?
  7. Guys, job done. Vaseline did the trick. I managed to slide a 4” section onto the centre section and then slide that back on to the chassis-to-tank section. I’ve got an issue with the metal clips that can secure both 3/16 & 5/16 tubes. They don’t suit the 3/16 tube!
  8. Doug, with the footrest in the factory position, as yours, I find my foot too far down and the rest too close to the clutch pedal. My foot hits it on the way down. My footrest will be almost half way along the oil refill hole.
  9. I see, use the original. The original doesn’t work for me.
  10. So then it would fasten into the tunnel with its own screws rather than employ the existing tunnel to body fasteners? How about: no lower foot and bonded to the tunnel over a large area and one fastener at the bulkhead? Even lighter and that bonded joint would be strong enough.
  11. Hi Graham, I’m not sure what you mean.
  12. Pictured, Al prototype footrest. It uses three (2 horiz & 1 vert) of the existing tunnel to body fasteners and there’ll be a couple into the tunnel itself at the flange above the oil fill access.
  13. Graham, I have wondered over the last few days whether it’s differently shaped to original. It might even be just larger radii as it’s a vac form. It has been in the car and even with the 1/2” of sound and heat insulation it clears the bell housing.
  14. I’ll test the switch tomorrow. Anyone know which spades are to the switch?
  15. Hi Graham, some measurements of the flat area that it is fixed to, please. The pictures below show it the best that I can get it.
  16. Guys, I assumed that Triumph used one footrest across all small chassis cars, not so according to Canley C’s parts lists. So, do I have the wrong one? Pictures below demonstrating the dimensions. P1: 3 1/4” wide P2: 2 1/4” high P3: 3 1/2” long
  17. The area of the tunnel that the footrest fixes to isn’t big enough. I can’t get all three fixings in as the foot rest overhangs. Area not big enough &/or larger radii on the plastic tunnels or, have I got the wrong footrest? Can anyone send the dimensions of the footrest.
  18. Hi Graham, is this a GT6 tunnel?
  19. Derek, rest assured, I will incorporate the cover/ foot rest if I can. I am looking to (primary) mount the footrest at the bulkhead and the tunnel secondary. I will of course share everything. Thank you
  20. Hello Graham, I’ve attached a picture of a footrest positioned roughly to the dimensions you gave me. Does that look similar to yours? It doesn’t fit the tunnel very well at all. Is this common with the replacement, plastic ones?
  21. Hi Derek, please excuse me, but, where’s the bulge for the starter? My access hole is further to the left than yours too.
  22. So the wiper motor is back and connected and everything works, to a point. The motor won’t stop unless I time the twist to off pos’n just right and, the circlip on the shaft, in the picture, turns with the shaft and hits the casting. It’s at five o’clock, on the web. Wrong circlip, bent ? Help please. Thank you.
  23. Right, after several months, I’m just about there. The bracket in the picture is mk 4! The plain nuts on the clamps will be changed for K nuts. Few changes en route to mk 4: hole centres, bend angle, thickness, clearance cut outs.
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