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Adrian Saunders

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Everything posted by Adrian Saunders

  1. Adrian Saunders
    Dave, I found that an electronic ignition conversion engineered out one of the variables, the good old points. My idle was transformed to even and consistent and gave me confidence in that setup so as then be able to look elsewhere. Try electronic, even if you go back to points, you’ll learn. Also, the pipe-in-the-mouth-of-the-carb to set the flow can be surprisingly accurate, set the balance too. If you’re local to Chelmsley Wood/South Birmingham, I can lend you a proper, graduated air-flow meter and a timing light. Let me know.
  2. Adrian Saunders
    I’m struggling to get the glass to not rock back and forth when fill up. Can GT6 owners check how stable the glass is at full extent. Thanks.
  3. Adrian Saunders
    Hi Nick, ILOC 15050 is 71 mm o/d.
  4. Adrian Saunders
    I’m going to change mine to: bell housing, off diff front mount and off rear valance.
  5. Adrian Saunders
    Guys, just came across this on a plumbing website forum, possible answer to the loose olive: “You push a bit of pipe into a fitting, tighten the nut, compress the olive on the pipe, then expect the olive to seal in it's seat. It can't because it's already in as far as it can go. Now you have to cut off the pipe below the olive so that next time you tighten the nut there is room to draw the two mating faces together. What you do next time is push the pipe in, then withdraw it a few millimetres before you tighten the nut.”
  6. Adrian Saunders
    John, also, I’m guessing your car's somewhat non-std.
  7. Adrian Saunders
    Richard, tri-rated is the same as what we use at work for panel building etc. But that isn’t thin-wall insulation, how did you get it through? Did you reduce the csa? Also, please advise what and where from for that silicone tube. It sounds marvellous.
  8. Adrian Saunders
    My small x member mount. Is this an original position? One side of the U bolt goes through an angle which bolts to the chassis x member and there’s a rubber between the angle / x member.
  9. Adrian Saunders
    Scope for bell housing mount?
  10. Adrian Saunders
    John, it was easy, once I found out that automotive cable has much thinner insulation than any other type. I used some 1/4” od pvc sleeve, not shrink-wrap, which goes through the 1/4” hole in the stick, and allows the cables to move slightly. As I had a mk2 before and knew how good the column switch was I wanted that too so, I have both on mine, wired in series. There’s an access hole in the tunnel to access the connections at the inhibitor-switch so if the lever switch or wiring fails I can quickly change the wiring and run column only.
  11. Adrian Saunders
    I’ve got one to the tiny x-member under the rear of the ‘box.
  12. Adrian Saunders
    This ought to fix it!
  13. Adrian Saunders
    Doug, I have (car came with) a rear box only but, the pipe is close to the chassis. Rather than have several clamped joints I welded as much as possible but allowed for disassembly and maint. Also, it is a bit loud so I’ve introduced an easily removable baffle into the tailpipe. Theory is: fire up, don’t annoy my wife and neighbours, drive about a mile to the rear of the NEC, remove one screw and the baffle, make a splendid noise all the way to Kings Norton.
  14. Adrian Saunders
    Hi Paul, could you post some pics: both carb sets; manifold with carb on, errant linkages etc.
  15. Adrian Saunders
    Thanks Nick. The pipe is supported just after the joint, at the original position off the chassis, adjacent to the rear of the gearbox. I haven’t added a support forward of the joint but I could, it’ll be clamped to the tube rather than welded,initially, and then welded once proven. I used an ILOC 15050 joint which I welded the clamp extensions onto. If I remember correctly, you can’t get the 150 long x 50 bore joint with extensions. The ends of the joint are swaged-on/aluminised mild steel, but I cleaned off the Al coating and used Argoshield to MIG weld the mild to the stainless tube with stainless wire. I’ll get you the O/D of the joint tomorrow, don’t think my wife would be too happy if I get it tonight.
  16. Adrian Saunders
    I’ve noticed a comment regarding tubular manifolds, that the 3to1 collector is actually a slip joint and the perils of this. I introduced my own flexi joint (axial and radial flex capable) under the gearbox of my GT6 as it did indeed all look a bit too rigid. Has anyone else tried one of these on the road? My car’s still work-in-progress.
  17. Adrian Saunders
    Thanks Pete. The loom is looped and it moves between gears extremely well. There’s a length of 1/4” pvc sleeve added which runs all through the lever and sticks out by about 10 mm. You can see it in the earlier pictures. The cups are dry, I’ll grease them tonight.
  18. Adrian Saunders
    How have you guys routed the switch wires? I have mine coming through the tunnel hole at about 7 o’clock, right next to the U nut. I’ve got some shorter ones arriving tomorrow which will be fine but, just wondering if I’ve gone a different way.
  19. Adrian Saunders
    I can get mine as high as this before the radius on the top of the glass contacts the 1/4 light frame.
  20. Adrian Saunders
    Hey guys, where should the drop-glass finish, relative to the top of the 1/4 light.
  21. Adrian Saunders
    I’ve tacked my “new” channel together and fitted and it works! It’s the one on the left. A small amount of tweaking and final welding to do. Notice along the back edge of the drop-glass, the edge that ends up parallel to the B post upper and the other more angled edge that’s just protruding out of the door. The latter, is the only part of the glass that runs in the channel/felt! See the wear-marks on the glass.
  22. Adrian Saunders
    Guys, I’ve sketched up the brackets, onto the CAD drawing of the channel. Would any of you be able to verify my measurements? I’ve attached pictures of the drawing and sketch.
  23. Adrian Saunders
    Still working on this but, the MGBGT channel is looking hopeful. I’ve modelled the GT6 channel in CAD and I’ll check with sheet metal workers on feasibility. Meanwhile, I’ll remove the brackets from my knackered channel and temp fix them to the MG channel. 
  24. Adrian Saunders
    I’ve started a new thread on this as it seems feasible, but I might need your assistance. The MGBGT channel’s bend is only 3 to 4 mm different, when the parts are meshed, see picture. I measured them, did some CAD, and that measured 3.8 mm, see CAD screen shot. I’ve tried the MG channel with a GT6 rubber inside it on the glass, it fitted and slid along it easiily, the compliance in the rubber helping I’m sure. I’ll need to get new brackets made in slightly thicker mat’l as I can’t do them thin with bent sides as per original, anyone help there?
  25. Adrian Saunders
    Richard, thanks. I remember now years ago (when I was 19) on my mk2 GT6, the rubbers being reinforced. It’s called insertion rubber, I’ll get some off Amazon and make some more as required.
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