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Adrian Saunders

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Everything posted by Adrian Saunders

  1. I’ve changed the grommets for Lucas ones from AutoSparks Ltd. # 503 for the wiring and # 505 for the wiper tube. Both are a much closer fit and the stretch of the grommets is good. I also got a new plug from AutoSparks. The blue connector detached during fitting, it’s time for the solder and shrink wrap.
  2. Graham, thank you. I’ll check this out tonight.
  3. How do you know that? I’m intrigued.
  4. Would anyone be able to get me some measurements of the footrest to the vertical and horizontal mounting faces of the tunnel and an approx angle that it leans. I know there’s no precision required here, the measurements will be a good starting point though. Thank you.
  5. Gas weld nozzle cleaners to deflect the detent and the plug is off.
  6. My rear nearside flexible is somewhat tight /different to o/s. Is this union correctly mounted? Should the fixing be the other side of the vertical port, giving more room for the flexible to operate in?
  7. Hi guys. I’m assuming that the best way to get a grommet around the wiper motor wiring on a GT6 mk3 is to extract the push-ons from out of the multi-plug and slip a grommet over the (much smaller) connectors / wiring rather than the multi-plug, and then to insert the elec conn’s back into the plug. Has anyone done it this way or is there a better way? Picture attached, not my car though, the lower of the two grommets. As always, your help is most appreciated.
  8. Thanks Doug. I’m going to get some 8 mm Gates and test it at work. I can do some vacuum and pressure decay testing on it secured with some ABA clips. I’ll publish the results. What’s this “other website” that Badwolf mentioned?
  9. At the risk of many, many jokes, did you find it difficult to insert to anything beyond 10 mm? Even with heat and Vaseline?
  10. This Gates Barricade 5/16 is still evil to fit. I can’t get any further than 10 mm on, and that’s with the hard line off the car! With it fitted its even less, with lubricant. Anyone else struggled with Gates Barricade R9?
  11. This short section of rubber is a sod to fit. Has anyone used a lubricant to make it easier?
  12. That’s super David. Thank you. Images of CAD model and drawing attached. How do they compare? This is “reverse engineering” done from pictures so it won’t be 100% correct first time.
  13. Hi guys, can anybody help me with this? Even if it’s pictures. Thank you.
  14. Thanks Gully. I purchased two off him this morning.
  15. Please will one of you kind souls either tell me where to get the rotoflex hub end float setting spacers (not the 0.003” shims) from or, tell me the inside and outside diameters, and I’ll get some made. Part #’s 152483 to 7 in the attached image. Thank you.
  16. No problem Clive. Cardboard templates or CAD, both get the job done. I’ve checked CC’s website and the Herald uses the same bolt but I couldn’t find the shot-bolt bracket or whatever it is that is on the Herald.
  17. I could get the 3D model to a high level working from photo’s with rules on to show sizes. Anything at all will be most appreciated. I’ve bought a rear seat but the brackets are homemade right angles only.
  18. Clive, they’re a bit more than just an angle. There’s an offset on them to allow for the trim.
  19. Mine will go on with adhesive too. Frame and gutters painted beforehand so no original spec unprotected metal / water trap.
  20. Could anyone lend me a GT6 rear seat shot-bolt latch to copy/re-manufacture. #27 in the attached image. I’ll be aiming to model it in 3D CAD, produce 3D prints of l/h and r/h and then try them out. Then get some made.
  21. That’s great Paul. Suspiciously close to 75 mm, 3“ it is. Thank you.
  22. Please will you all submit the centres distance / overall length of the anti-roll bar link. I’ll average the submissions to get a result. I’m about to fit a Jon Wolfe spherical setup and I don’t have an original to refer to. Ps: I have fitted rubber covers to increase the longevity. Thank you.
  23. After a few of rounds of 3D printing and adjusting of holes etc, a stainless steel bracket was bolted in tonight. Yes, there’s too much material but that’s intentional, I’ll trim off any excess. I think I’ll do a 20 mm wide strap (akin to a U-bolt), 2 mm thick, to keep the pipe in place. All suggestions will be greatly received. PS: I had two brackets made.
  24. Problem solved with the correct JB Weld product and some 1/4” tube deformed to aid pipe retention. I used rubber hose and fuel resistant push-on fittings to exit through grommets. I need to add some short lengths of pipe outside/u’neath, two-man job though as the pipe is tight on the plastic fittings.
  25. Oops. Forgot. No 6 can run hotter due to compromised cooling! The waterways in the block/head get full of crud at the rear first. If you remove the block drain plug and nothing happens, it’s blocked. I ended up removing my head and cleaning out the block from above with a wire and multiple fills with water.
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