yorkshire_spam

I did a partial rebuild on the Spitfire 1500 engine in 2015, head gasket, big ends, mains and thrust washers. I used ARP studs, nuts and washers and a Payen HG, never re-torqued and has done about 15K miles since (including a 2x10CR runs) YMMV I would be happy to re-use studs and the mini-spares nuts, but I've never managed to extract a full set of studs without ruining at least a couple and I have no trust that new studs would be OEM quality, so I "waste" my money on ARP.

I made one by cutting slots in a pipe plier because I couldn't find one at a decent price but had a lot of wiring to do!

Some good data on head comparison here: http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/performance_enhancements.htm#Port_and_Polish_and_Flow_the_Head Cheers, Sam

I think its a case of a previous owner/mechanic just using something they think fits.

Any use?

I'll check what I used, but mine is a 1500 with manifold/pipes to suit - not sure what the size of the 1300 version is. So... in 2015 I did a 2K miles European trip in the Spitfire including some miles on the Autobahns at around 70 to 80 mph the Spitfire either left you with ringing in your ears (like you'd been to a rock concert in the 1980s) OR you had to wear ear plugs. Using the Elvington track rules I measured the noise level (I think it's 1 meter back from the tailpipe at a 45 degree angle, but I could be wrong) - it was breaking the db level at tick over! (Rule is at 2K I think) Anyway, since then I fitted the centre resonator and did another European run in 2017. It's better, but not quiet. It means that ear plugs are no longer mandatory at 70mph+ speeds. To be honest it hasn't taken as much off as I hoped, but it's enough to be useful.

For further reference the centre resonator I used hooked up to the JP front section using straight pipe and some straight reducer section was: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Jetex-Universal-Exhaust-Round-Silencer/dp/B006J67HCS I just bent the chassis flange down to make space (that's a Spitfire chassis though... no idea how similar/different a Herald is around that area.

Anyone know if the Spitfire 1300 4-2-1 will fit around the herald chassis etc? If it does I'd go for something like: http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/extractor-manifold-ssteel-1300-1500-models-2 At the front. Straight centre section with maybe a resonator to tone it down a bit? Then whatever you fancy (nice and free flowing) at the back?

A very generous and helpful person sent me some old ones to clean up and try plating. I also got some from Arun fastners... Old vs Arun...

In the end I bought a Girling seal set, I have a pile of used rear cylinders, I'll find one with nice clean bore in good condition and rebuild it.

I wasn't trying to cast aspertions on any nation or start a debate on the relative quality of different countries engineering capabilities. As @RogerH rightly says China is capable of some astonishingly high quality engineering, but when we ask them to build to a price target they do exactly that. The initial post was trying to establish whether or not QH and/or Delphi brake parts are STILL OE quality or whether they are now just a box brand for generic parts. I had VERY bad experience with WOLF power tools, they used to be the dogs danglies, but last time I bought one it wasn't worth the copper contained in the motor windings, it just fell apart.

I'm after replacement GWC1110, it seems I have 3 options: Unbranded sold through eBay or the usual Triumph specialists. QH branded Delphi branded Does anyone know if QH and/or Delphi are still making OE quality parts or if either or both are now just printed on boxes that come from China like everything else? (a la Lucas) Or does anyone know of any other options? Cheers, Sam

I did, too... have you seen my thread on rubbish UJs? Yeah, I probably should have said "quality branded ones from Land Rover suppliers", I forget that there are people who don't know what utter carp some blue boxed items are. Having spent a lot of years with Land Rovers I kinda make the mistake of taking it for granted that people know how bad they are, Sorry!

I won't have Britpart parts anywhere near any of my motors. As I've said elsewhere I order from lrdirect.com as it lets you select the brand of the part you want... no more rubbish in blue boxes. I think it's a shame that some people still promote that brand mentioning no names.... https://www.britpart.com/news/archive/car-sos

Not sure about "standard" fitting for speakers, but mine (unused as I don't have a stereo fitted) are in the panels behind the seats (Described as rear quarter panels on Park Lane Classics website I think) pictured here on rimmers site: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID005963

Ey up Roy!

I've always removed the prop on mine when taking the gearbox out. It might be possible without, but I haven't done it.

That's the clincher really - does it need a rebore or doesn't it... A flat rebuild cost with somebody doing it professionally will factor in having to do a certain proportion of blocks out of every 10 or so that they do. I got away with a polish on the crank rather than a grind, so that saved me some money. IIRC I recently paid about 250 for a rebore AND piston set, a further 120 for a crank polish and full set of (good brand) bearings. Then there's the oil pump.. reface etc or new required? (another 60?) Head work etc. would be on top, then labour etc. I wouldn't be prepared to try and do it as a business for any less than £2K flat price. (Time and materials would be a better bet, but how many customers want to commit to something without knowing the price up front?!)

UJs I buy quality branded ones from Land Rover suppliers where I can. Bearings I get the bearing number and go to a trustworthy bearing factors and buy the best they have or the best I can afford. I'm happy to pay more for quality parts, but I won't take a risk on a specialist Triumph supplier if it means I might be paying more for the "perception of quality" when what I'm actually getting is the same cr*p that's on eBay but at a higher cost. I love the lrdirect website... for any part it lets you choose which brand of part at what price you want. If only there was a Classic Car equivalent.

Just thought I'd mention, I ordered some spare parts from Sealey Spares service yesterday, reasonably priced and not a terrible delivery charge and they arrived very well packaged next day. I'm very impressed!

I have no idea, I emailed the supposed area organiser for West Yorkshire to see if their area meets (as stated on the website) actually take place and never got a reply. I tend to go over to the CT Pendle and Pennine (Barnoldswick) area meets and occasionally the Dolomite Club (Driglington)

Coming along nicely!

At the moment I'm looking at getting a local company to make me some AJM670/AJM671 inlet manifold gaskets for the 1850, the ones that everyone are selling at the moment are way too thick and it makes it harder to get the water port to seal. NOS thickness 0.55mm, new gaskets 1.65mm thick!

Arun fastners have quoted about 60p each for the 1.1/4" ones, so I'm probably going to order those and them shorten them to 3/8" and 5/8" Their minimum order value means I'll have about 20 if anyone else wants any? (Just going to wait a few days for a couple of other compaines to come back to me before ordering)

I've been contemplating getting a DIY plating kit for a while for small parts like bracketry etc. So I was going to have a go myself with one of those (after trying it first on some less "unobtainium" rusty bolts)