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yorkshire_spam

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Everything posted by yorkshire_spam

  1. yorkshire_spam
    The Fox is looking good Wim!
  2. yorkshire_spam
    Too true. Also my daughter's boyfriend was keen to help and learn during lock-down, so I thought Id make good use of the willing help! Thanks, fingers crossed all being well it might fire up today!
  3. yorkshire_spam
    I bit the bullet and pulled the old engine and shove the new one in!
  4. yorkshire_spam
    Pictures! Have a look at this: https://sucarb.co.uk/technical-carburetters-introduction The holes effectively serve the purpose in the simple diagram at the top of #5, on the 3rd (bottom) diagram they are item 19. Cheers, Sam
  5. yorkshire_spam
    I got myself a replacement folding engine crane last year from eBay. Described as "1 Ton Blue Engine Crane Hoist Trolley Folding Carport Tool Home Shop Portable" It's been sat in the garage waiting for me to have a use for it since then. (Long story, but the last crane I had was actually too big to move to the new house when we moved... so I sold it and eventually bought a replacement) Anyway, I had low expectations of a cheapy ebay no-brand job and I have to say it's in line with expectations. The various bits are badly painted in different shades of blue, with some rust already evident in places. It seems to have been supplied with a random assortment of metric-ish nuts and bolts which bear no resemblance to those listed in the parts list and in a couple of places I was disappointed to find a bolt has been supplied/spec'd where I would have expected a pin/clip combination. Anyway, just goes to show you get what you pay for! If I could have afforded it I would have spent a bit more and got something a bit better.
  6. yorkshire_spam

    Too slack?

    yorkshire_spam replied to Tanky's topic in Engine

    The whole split pin thing for the tensioner had me thinking when I put mine back together the other day... what if you only fitted the pin between the cover and the bracket? Would it matter? I mean, once it's all bolted together, where's the pin going to go? With just the "front" split pin through it it can't move forward or rearward enough to come out? In the end I fitted both and washer anyway.
  7. yorkshire_spam
    Rock n roll! That's what we like to hear!
  8. yorkshire_spam
    I had one very similar... it couldn't cope with the viscocity of gear oil, fine with engine oil though. When I tried it on diff oil it drew too much current and the wires caught fire. Not my finest success story when it comes to car mechanicing! 🙂
  9. yorkshire_spam
    Pete, I respectfully disagree. If the diff oil is of unknown "heritage" then I think changing it is well worth it. This is what came out of mine when it had it's first change in 2012. Mostly dirty water. Clearly the "seals" just weren't sealing and over time it had drawn in moisture. That said I don't change mine as a part of a service or anything like that, only when I've had the diff apart. The rest of the time it just gets the level checked and topped up if needed.
  10. yorkshire_spam
    I don't think float level is adjustable on HS4, but a low level would suggest blocked fuel feed or a bad fuel pump. High level would indicate that the valves in the float chambers aren't closing or the pump is supplying at too high a pressure.
  11. yorkshire_spam
    Worth shopping around, Moss, Rimmers, Canleys, James Paddock etc. prices vary...
  12. yorkshire_spam
    Thanks Nigel. It's a subject fresh in my mind as I've just completed a full rebuild of my carbs from bare bodies up to tuned and running!
  13. yorkshire_spam
    Probably easier to show you than to explain it.... this shows the jet level with the bridge. (The rise across the base of the carb - referred to as the bridge) Usual stating point for tuning is 2 turns or 12 flats DOWN from that point. After it's been turned over a bit if you take the tops/pistons off the carbs and pull the choke right out, you should see the fuel level - about 3/8" to 1/2" below the bridge. (That would indicate the float levels are right) Cheers, Sam
  14. yorkshire_spam
    I've got one a bit like that!
  15. yorkshire_spam
    Pete, I've seen something very similar before, but used for changing valve springs in situ rather than testing valves etc.
  16. yorkshire_spam
    Welcome!
  17. yorkshire_spam
    I think the problem with the dial gauge method is that you need to note the point at which it stops moving and then when it starts again and then find the mid-point, which means you have to be turning to to find those points, which is pretty much impossible to do smoothly and reliably IMHO. I had similar issues but nowhere near as bad setting the cam timing as you have to identify the point of max lift on #1 inlet.
  18. yorkshire_spam
    I like that one John, I spent ages beggaring around trying to find TDC using a dial gauge it took something like 6 or 7 itterations to hone it down to a position I had any confidence in. When I re-checked it using a piston stop I was about 2 degrees out.
  19. yorkshire_spam
    I tend to extract bushes as follows... Select or buy a holesaw that fits over the inner metal tube but is smaller than the outer.... cut out the inner. Cold chisel in the sides of the outer and then knock it out with BFH and a punch. Can't imagine trying to do it without a vice on a sturdy bench though.
  20. yorkshire_spam
    Wierd, they have a "Coronovirus but we are still open" statement on their webpage.
  21. yorkshire_spam
    Might be worth giving Owen Springs a call to see if the can do a new one to original spec. ?
  22. yorkshire_spam
    Get them fitted and feel the benefit! 🙂
  23. yorkshire_spam
    You have a good point Nigel, but I'm not sure once I'm out of lockdown when/if I'll have the time to swap them over - now might be the time to do it, but the question is can I ust let it sit there once it's done? Will I have the patience to save it for a better run-in opportunity once it's fitted? Thanks @jiggawhat2k, the only let-down is the head. It was painted and looked lovely after all the porting was done, but after it was skimmed to increase the CR some of the paint came off, I didn't do a great job touching that up. Cheers, Sam
  24. yorkshire_spam
    It's for adjusting the mixture on the HS4s fitted to my Spitfire, it has to "dodge" the heatshield and the silly air filter things. It's oversized, which allows a bit of wiggle room around various obstructions, but is a tight enough fit to turn the adjuster without "skipping"
  25. yorkshire_spam
    Yep it is.
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