yorkshire_spam

Like this?

From what I can tell (based on my own experience) the rear windows are "ok" to get hold of, but the quarter lights are a bit "rocking horse poop". I have a spare rear window, but it might have a couple of light scratches on the glass.

Nice one!

I've had to use a GPS speedo recently as my Spitfire 1500 speedo is goosed.... it refuses to go above about 20mph (when you are actually doing about 50), another thing to repair!

Have you tried comparing against a GPS speedo? I can't remember 100%, but I think I worked out that in 4+OD 2250 rpm is 50 mph and in 4th only 2750 rpm is 50 mph.

I found a Land Rover propshaft slim socket very handy when trying to get to some of (but not all) the manifold nuts on the Spitfire: I thinned the walls very very slightly to get it to clear, but it really saved my neck on one nut in particular.

After I took the photo I found I had somehow got oil/grease on the lens of the camera on my phone... but haven't been able to take a similar picture since I cleaned it! Looking forward to it! Unfinished business for us as we suffered engine failure on the event in 2015 and haven't been able to do the event since. Thanks for the welcome everyone! Cheers, Sam

Greetings all, I've been posting for about a week so it's time I put an entry on the "new users" section. I'm Sam and I'm a Triumph addict. Here's my current "fun" cars I've had the Spitfire 1500 (aka 'Scarlet') for 5 or 6 years now, the Dolomite (aka 'Binny') is a newer addition to the household at Christmas 2017. The Dolomite is currently firmly ensconced in the garage having the head gasket replaced (and then the timing chain... and then anything else I find as I disassemble/re-assemble)

A big confidence boost and step forward!

Leon, do the "finger nail" test.... run your nail along the shaft, if you can feel a step where the wear is - that's not good. If you can't feel a step - it's fine. (In my honest opinion.... other opinions may vary)

Is it sucking the sides in on the filter? Ahhh no, pump then filter, so it won't... ignore me.

You should be fine! The vast majority of it is pretty straight forward.

I wonder if the relief "plunger" is sticking? Rather than it being an issue of the pump sucking the sump dry?

The only other special tools I can think of are: Tool for setting position of dust cap on the drive shaft - easy work around.... don't move the caps when you take it all apart Tool for pulling the shaft from the bearing hub. I use an adapted scrap front hub for this, but I recon a big hammer is probably another work around. (or a slide hammer, or a generic puller)

There's a "by the book" method and a less gentle method. (Input shaft and bearing together....) By the book, you attach the "special tool" to the input shaft and use a slide hammer to pull it out of the case. The risky potentially damaging method is to get a circular drift onto the back of the bearing and tap it out from the back.

First step is to drop the lay gear set into the bottom of the box, if you want to avoid a full strip down you'll need to push the shaft out with a shorter "dummy" shaft, otherwise the needle rollers will drop out all over the place. Once that's dropped 1st motion (aka input) shaft can come out

On my RHD Spitfire 1500 (1977 build) it's fitted like this, but I can't vouch for whether or not it's fitted "right" or not:

They do crop up on e(vil)Bay from time to time. I've previously bought (at 2 different times) 2 pairs of rear shafts complete with uprights and brake back plates from about 70 to 90 quid per pair delivered. Of those 4 I ended up with 1 scrap shaft and 3 really good ones to re-use.

I thought FIA was Fédération des Idiots Astronomiques ?

Exactly.... if you think of the man hours etc involved in pulling the gearbox out and rebuilding it I think not paying for decent bearings is false economy. I bought a pair of un-grooved bearings with the same intention, but they were "only" about half the price of the grooved ones, by the time you add the machining etc.... it didn't look much better.

I did pretty much the same thing, but I bought a sheet of rubber and cut a small piece out and placed it in the bottom to take up the slack/provide grip.

I can source branded (RHP last time I asked) rms8n/MJ1NR/MS10K/Bmc 104433 for single rail boxes, but last time I bought 2 it worked out at around £80+vat for the pair! Eye watering money for 2 bearings! (I managed to source a complete set of diff bearings branded SKF for the same amount... 6 for the price of 2 as it were!)