yorkshire_spam

That's odd, what's a DM engine prefix from? DH is 1300 dolomite I think. FM would be a Spitfire 1500?

Over on the Triumph Dolomite Club, Dave kindly provided a copy of the Standard Triumph Hardware catalogue: https://btcloud.bt.com/web/app/share/view/hpS6mCM0mn?shareUid=369da33af68d45ada0c70e0b9b28b264 I find it helpful to be able to translate Triumph part numbers from the parts catalogues into something generic I can get from somewhere like Namrick.

I've been running bpr6es resistive plugs for well over 10k miles without issues. Your mileage may vary.

Brilliant! Thanks. That would explain why I haven't (so far) found differences in the carb assembly part numbers!

My Spitfire 1500 (1977 build) SU HS4 FZX1258(F/R) fitted, I have no reason to believe they are anything other than the original carbs. (Burlen show these as fitted to the Spitfire 1500 1976 to 1977) My spare carbs are SU HS4 FZX1122(F/R) which were slightly later fitment on the Spitfire 1500. Does anyone know what the differences are on these?

No greaser? Are we sure? What's the silver coloured thing that looks a bit like a grease nipple? 😉

I always get mine from lrdirect https://www.lrdirect.com/TVF100000-Universal-Joint/ That way I can choose which "quality" vs "price" I can afford this time!

I tend to use https://www.parcel2go.com/ and pick whichever looks good.

Left = aftermarket spitfire alloy nut right = standard spitfire steel wheel (missing the rubber/plastic ring that retains the wheel trim?) Would be my guesses. (Errors and omissions excepted, Your mileage may very etc etc.) Cheers, Sam

When I fitted a new spring (from a reputable supplier) to my Spitfire, even with settling it was nowhere near the right camber or ride height. Sadly (lack of alternative quality parts) the only solution was to add a lowering block to the rear for me.

Hi Colin, It's not 100% proof, but my 1977 build (1978 registered) 1500 Spitfire looks more like the one on the left. Regards, Sam

Pipe is a single piece (p/n TKC5153) vertical upwards from the pickup to the nut, then a 90 deg bend, then it connects to a short(ish) flexible section (p/n 144938) then it connects to the rigid pipe that runs through the floor and forwards under the body.

I did an OTT rewire on my Spitfire 1500, doing runs across Europe etc. I need the electricals to be 100% reliable. I modified the wiring diagram as I went along, here's what I ended up with: And I made this up and mounted it directly beneath the coil inside the car in the passenger footwell: Then I cut the loom open and replaced the lines out to the headlight so that I could use high current thin wall cables, allowing me to replace the bulbs. It was a huge amount of work and I never got to the stage where I'd consider it 100% complete (engine, diff and gearbox rebuilds always seemed more important) but it's been 100% reliable for the last 6 years.

Is it time to try the tradition spitfire owners maneuver of sticking you head (face up) in the passenger footwell with your feet over the back of the seat holding a torch in your mouth trying to see up the back of the card glove-box to see what the previous owner has done to it? In my 1500 there''s a 12 fuse, 3 relay box bolted in the passenger footwell... which means that the engine bay box does nothing but hold fuses that do nothing.

It clicks like a relay, so you still get the tic-tic noise, but with less "twang" because it's not a bi-metallic like the old ones. Edit: I should also add.. not long ago when checking the Spitfire over for the MOT I got an intermittent fault on the indicators, changing the flasher seemed to fix it, but then it recurred... it was mucky contacts in the hazard switch not routing to the indicator circuit properly. A squirt of contact cleaner and working the switch in and out a couple of times cured it.

Having played a similar game, despite the expense, I'm now using these in the Spitfire and the Dolomite: https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/red-2-pin-electronic-flasher-relay (Dolomite Indicators, Spitfire indicators and hazards)

This is a very good point... I intended to go to TSSC local meetings, so I emailed the contact listed on this website and never got a response. I'm pretty glad I didn't turn up to a meeting just to sit there like billy-no-mates on my own wondering where everyone was!

Worth noting that I'm on 175/70 R13 on 5.5J "minilight" alloys. Not much clearance at full-lock!

No problem Nick. I'd estimate I'd around 10mm lower at the rear and about 30mm lower at the front compared with standard. Just an estimate though. I found with standard ride height and springs the front got very very light about 80MPH on the autobahn.

@NickTruman I managed to get some measurements at the front, but getting a measuring device under the back at a meaningful datum point is proving tricky. Here's a chassis diagram that @JohnD posted on another forum, I've marked the datum points I measured at: Here's Point A with about 120mm between the ground and the lower edge of the chassis Here's point B, not quite as clear, round 8.5"/215mm at the join between the chassis rail and the front cross member. If that's any use I'll try and get something similar for the rear. Cheers, Sam

Ni Nick, My Spitfire 1500 sits just under standard height at the rear and slightly lowered at the front (to improve handling at speed) For your "extreme custom" car/suspension I'd be happy to measure height above ground at a reference point for you if you want? Cheers, Sam

GB6224 is an automec part number for GT6 MK2 RHD: https://automec.co.uk/products/brake-pipe-set-triumph-gt6-mark-2-rhd

I tried emailing the WY organiser to see if they were active and the meetings going ahead, didn't get a response, so no idea if there's anything going on round here.

It seems the key to ensuring that 2019 F1 season is more interesting has nothing to do with engine, car or aero regulations, just ensure HRH Duke of Edinburgh has a drive with Mclaren. 😉

Because of the slightly odd size of the thread for the 1500 filter many of the (now small number) of filters available do not have the anti-drain valve - so people could be fitting them simply because it's the only filter they can readily get hold of? I, like many others, have used the wix thread adapter to broaden the choice available, and my filter of choice for the Spitfire is now the Mann W713/9... but it won't fit a standard 1500 engine without the thread adapter.