yorkshire_spam

I can confirm that the bolts are really nasty small headed shouldered things made of unobtainium.... as clive rightly says the correct candidate for a rebuild is one with the bolts wired not splayed!

Go here: https://www.oreillyauto.com/ Find p/n 121G Enjoy!

If you ever find yourselves in the area (and you haven't already been) go to Thiepval, Tyne Cot but also Langemark. You won't enjoy it, but it's moving and well worth it.

Float height wrong? If the fuel level is cutting off too low the jets will end up needing to be lower?

That's the one, it pulls out and then sits on top of the coins.

Oooh good call, I remember that being an annoyance when I did mine first time.

Hs4 on my 78 spitfire don't have any float adjustment.

I'll have a look at which needles I'm on and get back to you. It's not so much a weaker needle.... more a richer needle at the top end, so that it can be tuned a little weaker at idle. (Jet higher)

How does the mix look on higher revs? My Spit is the same, twin hs4 with the 2p mod. I can't get it to be anything other than rich at idle if I want it to pull further up the throttle/rev range. I've tried a few different needles and some are better than others, but fundamentally I can have rich idle and good performance or "right" idle and no guts. I think the 2x1p coins are too thin to get the jets back to the right starting position.

Thanks Colin. I'd like to extend the garage and add a vitesse, but that would require planning permission. (and a serious change of heart from the boss)

Full garage....

I'd guess that the dimensions are the upper/lower tolerances used when QA checking a chassis, so the "actual" would be between the 2?

Hi Derek, I suspect an electric fan is not required.... I have a '78 1500 Spitfire and with a wide rad, good thermostat, water pump and cooling system in good condition I can't get it to overheat even when doing climbs like the Stelvio. (Oil cooling on a 1500 is a different matter entirely, but yours is a 1300) The only non-standard parts with my cooling system are the earlier wider rad and I've changed the water pump and fan for the ones WITHOUT the viscous coupling. I would highly recommend switching to a drop-in points replacement electronic ignition - I did mine years ago and it's been utterly trouble free (relatively cheap too) and carry a spare rotor arm and dizzy cap. Get them from a reputable source like Dizzy Doctor Brake pads I would recommend Mintex M1144 compound. If you replace the rear shoes try and get some miles on and re-adjust before the trip, get them well bedded in. W.r.t. fuel pump I know plenty of people have had problems with the new ones being supplied. I carry a known good OLD one in the boot just in case.

My RBRR list is currently: Tools: Imperial combination spanner set. Imperial+metric small socket set (1/4" drive) Imperial socket set. (1/2" drive) Torque wrench (1/2" drive) Screwdrivers Wire cutter/crimp tool Stromberg carb adjuster Hammer, chisel, drift Large adjustable spanner Tow rope Spares: Dizzy cap, points, condensor to suit 1850 Dolomite distributor HT Leads Jubilee clips, petrol hose clips Lengths of water hose Lengths of petrol hose Scotchlocks, lengths of wire, crimp connectors Bulbs: H4 + "standard 70s selection" Various 1850 gaskets (inlet manifold, thermostat housing etc.) Maybe an alternator Consumables: 20w50 engine oil,AQF automatic gearbox oil,EP90 gear oil,Water,Petrol,Instant gasket/RTV compound, Brake fluid Safety: 2xFire extinguisher,Hi-vis vests,Torch,Warning Triangle

When staying in the UK I tend to take a similar approach, but when on the continent I tend to carry things like head gaskets. I may not be able to fit them at the road side, but I might be able to persuade a local garage to fit them for me.... without having to wait for one to be sent from the UK. But that's probably just my paranoia.

Not sure about now, but at one time Rimmers bushes were PolyBush brand. (Which are not bad at all) On Land Rover's I've had the standard red polybush were pretty good for ride (if "good ride" and "Land Rover" aren't a contradiction in terms) My preference is Superflex or SuperPro, I won't touch anything unbranded or "FloFlex" or any of the eBay specials.

When I replaced the spring on my Spitfire 1500 (from a reputable supplier) it sat far too high, rather than return the spring (and have to try and find an alternative that might be better) I fitted a 3/4" block - that returned the back end to a more normal ride height. Maybe a PO of Black Cat's car had a similar issue?

I run a 1500 in the Spitfire and without an oil cooler the oil (either VR1 or Penrite 20/60) would be trashed at the end of a "big event" (10cr / rbrr) With the oil cooler the oil survives a bit better. (I still change it after the events though)

I've done mine in-situ, it's awkward, but do-able. Much improved if you have a slide hammer for pulling the old seal out. As said by previous posters, output flange will come off relatively easily.

Their "June 2018" pricelist shows: UPGRADED SPITFIRE UJ DRIVESHAFT & HUB pair 830 996 COMPETITION SPITFIRE UJ DRIVESHAFT 7 HUB Bigger Bearings pair 900 1080 (http://www.classicdrivingdevelopment.co.uk/page.asp?pID=31)

Personally I'd use white grease, similar to what was supplied with my poly kits from superpro and superflex that I've used.

If the engine is out on stand/bench I use a slide hammer (mine has a course thread screw attachment you can screw through the middle of core plugs etc.)

Welcome! There are a few people lurking around here with later Spitfires, myself included

I've got the bell wheelbarrow system, I had to fit a centre resonator to tone it down and it's still a bit loud. A new rad will probably work out cheaper than a re-core.

If it's the same one they were flogging before it's no good for gear oil. It says so in the instructions which I read AFTER it melted trying to pump ep90 into my diff.