johny
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Posts posted by johny
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10 hours ago, Paul Amey said:
Right thanks. So, they don't sound as bad as some people make out. I did notice the welds were not all that pretty. Some of the alloy welders I have worked with in Aviation would laugh there socks off to be honest. But then again, this is going on a car not a jet engine. Honda Civic rad is something to check out as well.
Be aware that the same rads come in different thicknesses and rows of tubes. Frontal area is generally better for cooling than thickness but in some of our cars the space available is limited so a thicker rad is the only way to have more cooling surface.
The number of rows of tubes can help explain the difference in price between two rads of the same thicknesss as for example a cheapy will have 3 rows of 1/2" wide tubes while a more expensive unit 2 rows of 3/4". Contrary to the advertising the latter is better as it will be slightly more efficient due to more useful cooling surface but wider tubes are more difficult to manufacture hence the higher price....
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A question: does the ratio itself, regardless of the diff design, affect the durability of the unit?
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Trouble is ignition and combustion are a complicated subject and of course vary from one engine to the next. I think spark energy and duration come into it not just the voltage generated and then of course one engine might need the best spark possible to achieve maximum combustion efficiency while another can still do the same with less spark...
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Not sure what the X means but R indicates this plug (or ones from other manufacturers) has an additional small internal resistance which helps reduce the radio interference generated by the passing of the high voltage current. This obviously causes a voltage drop but how much effect it has on the quality of the spark is the subject of ongoing debate☺️
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The way to make the gearbox last as long as possible is to do as much of the hard acceleration as possible in 4th because then its a direct drive and the layshaft is not in use. With the torque available from a 2.5 engine this should be easy to do so let the boy racers get off the line first and then steam past them😁
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Ive got a Chinese honda civic alloy rad on my Vitesse. Cost about 50 quid on ebay and some of the welding might not be as pretty as the known makes but its worked fine for 3 years now. Of course in this case the exact dimensions didnt matter as the system required modifications to fit it anyway...
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I wonder if its possible to use Engineers blue to check how good the surface contact is?
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Been talked about on here and other places before and the general opinion seems to be theres minimal problems with construction or materials quality but the design can be poor with connection pipes at wrong angles and dimensions incorrect. These have usually been worked around because as you say theres a considerable saving to be had...
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Its possible over the years that the seal plates have been levered off which can damage the faces or even cause distortion so then leaks are almost guaranteed☹️
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To be fair Ive never found thoses faces to be the worst leak points - in my experience its usually front seal or main casing joint....
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yes they just rely on the machined metal to metal faces sealing so obviously they must be perfectly clean and undamaged when assembled plus the use of a sealant will help although no benefit in it being copious. First port of call is to check that the allen screws are correctly tight still....
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8 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
If it saves money, why not? And condoms will always save you money, in the long run.
Doug
Sod the money, its those horrible boiling brakes I want to avoid!
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Seems to be pretty standard on bikes but maybe thats because the reservoirs they use are small - not much smaller than a standard Triumph one however,,,,
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I never understood why cars dont have a rubber bellows arrangement like motorbikes to keep the fluid away from the air. Its just a folded membrane clamped in place by the reservoir lid that seals the fluid but still allows its level to change. The air above it is then free to enter and exit as normal....
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Now if you put a roast in there that would help with engine cooling!
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oh no dont go spoiling my cunning modification!
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Drive it😆
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Think they supply some items to other stockists but that of course doesnt mean theyre necessarily the cheapest...
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cor pedantic... well as the running temperature of my manifold is certainly hot enough with no coolant flow (after all it is bolted to the exhaust manifold!) its good to hear that by using that flow through the engine and radiator Im not increasing choke time😄
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Dont think thats the case as the coolant is heated rapidly in the cylinder head as the thermostat is closed and it cant escape to the radiator. This quick heating is used to warm up the manifold as soon as possible because the water pump has a separate circuit just for the manifold (and interior heater),,,
The manifold if cold (even in summer) impedes atomisation so a richer mixture is needed to compensate. If the head and manifold can warm up together quickly less choke time is required so saving fuel and emissions...
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Sorry no recommendation but I can say for many of our parts these days theres just one company making them (often in China or India) and then the same item is sold by the various stockists so the only deciding factor is price and service😌
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11 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Interesting design; simple and hopefully effective.
well I think its a waste of coolant flow that I think is better used going through the engine and off to the radiator. However I do have an uprated rad with more tubes which hopefully can make use of the extra flow...
Never found any restrictor in the alloy distributor and that really wouldnt make sense as to minimise the use of the choke youd always have to have the heater valve open!
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4 minutes ago, NonMember said:
The original design intent is that (nearly) all the flow through the mainfold is via the cabin heater, on the assumption that the driver would turn the heater off in the summer and thus the manifold would also not be heated unnecessarily.
Thats what I thought initially but on my Vitesse the flow is always going through the manifold regardless of the heater valve position. When you select the heater the water can then also go through it in series with the manifold. It makes sense because as I say the inlet manifold gets so hot from the exhaust that having coolant going through it continually is never going to be a problem...
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yes no problem. Heres my method:
Jack front of car off ground and support,
Locate trunion grease nipples (fit if not installed), remove cap (if fitted), clean and with small pin check grease nipple ball is free,
Put rag around trunions to catch any spillage,
Fit suitable length of soft plastic pipe to syringe and suck up gearbox oil venting any air,
Attach pipe to grease nipple and gently push oil in (dont press too hard as it shouldnt be necessary and the pipe could blow off the nipple),
Oil will fill the trunions and overflow out of the top past the rubber seals - you may even see old dirty oil/water pushed out but hopefully not grease,
You can move the steering from side to side to check all is free and play is minimal,
Replace caps/plugs, clean area and return car to ground
Which is the Toughest Differential for a 2.5L Vitesse?
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted
Its just that I would have thought, due to the torque multiplier effect, dumping the clutch on a 3.27 diff would be more stressful for the gears (and other parts of the drive train) than doing the same on, for example, a 3.89....