johny
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Posts posted by johny
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I think the intention is that on a cold start the coolant circulates through the manifold, especially while the thermostat is closed, so warming it up as soon as possible (as well as the interior heater if desired) so allowing the choke to be reduced earlier....
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Ive just had great success brazing an aluminium radiator of a motorbike. Really didnt expect the alumiweld kit I bought ages ago to work but with the right technique it was quite easy. The key is to make a puddle of the molten filler rod on the repair area so youd need to file or grind a small hollow. Then once its liquid you just use a scraper through the puddle to remove the aluminium oxide on the parent metal underneath and they bond. The radiator was more difficult as it was a tube that had split but its been in use now for a while with no problems👍
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56 minutes ago, avivalasvegas said:
This appears to correlate with the experience of other owners who have installed the updated water pump. It appears to force coolant through the system better regardless of other variables.
I think the limitation of a cooling system depends on the model of car so an uprated pump will definitely push more coolant but if the size of the radiator is the limiting factor it wont help much. For historical design reasons many people, myself included, believe this to be the case with the Triumph small chassis sixes....
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15 minutes ago, SpitFire6 said:
It's a fact.
Faster is better.
"water flow through the rad/engine too fast so not removing as much heat as possible?" You really think that? LOL.I know heat transfer isnt instantaneous and the rate depends on the temperature difference between the two mediums so it seems logical theres an optimum contact time...
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23 minutes ago, SpitFire6 said:
Hi,
If the new pump flow rate is improved it will increase "Cooling".
For any car Water Pump maximum cooling will happen when the flow rate/RPM is at the point before cavitation occurs.cheers,
Iain.
Not sure that is true as cant the water flow through the rad/engine too fast so not removing as much heat as possible? I thought there was an optimum speed over the heat transfer surfaces especially on cooling so that if you install a larger radiator then, yes you might need a larger flow rate...
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Course that historic Fan treaty didnt take into account the fun to be had comparing fan air flows and thermostat histeresis and then installing wiring, fuses, lights and switches and setting it all up before the final pleasure of hearing it cut in and seeing the temp gauge drop. Ah almost tempted to get another car so I can do it all again🤗
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No, dont start this one again! I think the treaty that was signed last time was 'at idle an electric fan can move more air than a mechanical fan but with a cooling system in good condition isnt necessary'
Phew...
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hmmm this is quite a complicated subject and for optimum performance theres has to be the correct balance between cooling surface, air flow and water flow. Increasing any one of these may not be as effective as hoped without making other changes. The pump in our cars is the same model used for the 150bhp TR6 so for normal duty I find it hard to believe its the most deficient part of the cooling system...
Your aux fan should only operate when stationary or moving up to walking pace. If it still comes on when going faster its not achieving anything as the cooling air flow will already be more than it can provide but is an indication that the something is wrong with the cooling 'balance' mentioned.
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yes that one too has already failed to sell once so you might be lucky...
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15 hours ago, daverclasper said:
Hi Doug. It was Pete's original enquiry. Just interested if "heavy breathing" is part of my life?.
Believe its related to how much pressure you can feel with the oil filler cap removed. If the rings/bores are worn there will be more leakage to the crankcase which, up to a certain flow, will be drawn into the carbs by the PCV. However Im not sure if its necessary to block off the PCV to test this...
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There this on ebay which hasnt sold previously...
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I fitted a stainless system to my Vitesse many years ago (sorry cant remember the make) and its been good except for the weld of the rear silencer hanger. This wasnt stainless and so within two or three years rusted through allowing the system to drop free.
Stainless welding is a bit specialised so I would imagine this could be an issue on many systems...
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The spring is the component that determines the output pressure but replacement pumps look quite different so not sure they'll accept or work properly with another spring...
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yes theyve been checked in this case but if there were low compression it could make a big difference in the combustion performance of the cylinders affected...,
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That will do but bit pricey as its more than some new pumps! However the risk with pattern pumps is that they can produce too much output pressure...
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In general mechanical items are inherently more reliable and efficient than electromechanical items. The first because theres fewer components to fail (fuses, cables, connectors, windings, switches etc) and the second because youre not converting from mechanical energy to electrical and back again.
As for E10 in mechanical pumps I think the most likely problem will not be the diaphragms or valves but the rubber seals used on the filter/lids...
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First try swopping plugs around then, if the same, swop over leads to see if the problems there... Unlikely to be mixture related as would affect more than one.
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Its Millers VSPe, the 500ml concentrated stuff that treats 500L of fuel. Tend to use it only when doing longer summer touring runs and it does something but whether all that the blurb says is debateable....
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Cost wise theres not much in it Pete as I can use my lead/octane/ethanol protect additive (about 5p/litre fuel) with the cheapest 95 I can find and thats cheaper than 97. True I have the hassle of adding it but then I dont have to worry about if a particular place has Super...
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Yes a man after my own heart! Just keep an eye out for any discolouration from heating.
However in the photo your starter, which appears to be the same model as mine (M35J as Colin says), has the rear bush protruding quite far from the backplate. Mine doesnt do this as I have a cover rivetted to the backplate that retains it, although the shaft does still stick through, and Im not sure if its just a difference in design or something not right with yours...
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Could just be bad luck on the water pump bearing although of course excessive belt tightness can accelerate wear. I run mine with little tension as theres not much load on it and you'd hear it slipping...
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Thats the type where the brushes are only accessible by removing the end cover not the earlier version where they are under a band the clamps round the end circumference of the motor...
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On my type of starter motor the terminal comes with the brushes as shown and its very easy to change. The other pair of brushes are more complcated as they do have to be connected solidly to the winding...
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Its definitely the water pump is it? I say that because its unusual for the bearings to fail because the seal normally starts to leak years beforehand and then the complete unit is replaced rather than going to the trouble of replacing the seal. You could remove the fan belt and run the engine to confirm the rattle is no longer present...
Herald 13/60 manifold water leak - repair or options?
in Fuel System
Posted
I have serious doubts that the water heating does much once our engines are up to temperature as the inlet manifold is so close to the exhaust. In fact Ive installed a small valve on the Vitesse to cut off the coolant supply hose to it (and interior heater) so that the flow is pushed round the engine and rad instead, I close it in the summer and dont notice any difference in the running except perhaps that the choke is necessary a little longer,,,,