johny
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Everything posted by johny
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Pete, do you reckon it could be put back together 180º out and affect the balance? What were the symptoms of the wear in your case and do you think theres any chance with thin strips of shim to pack out the splines?
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well Ive had mine apart before and cant see any problem except that perhaps the shaft was balanced assembled so that if the splined shaft is put back differently the balance will be out.....
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wow well if its definitely not u/js or the backlash clonk coming from the diff or gearbox gears as you rotate the prop back and forth then its got to be the splines and replacement is the only option. Saying that mine has some play in it (but doesnt give a clonk) and Ive been toying with the idea of making thin strips of steel shim to insert in the splines! Probably wont work or they wont last very long but I do love a good fiddle - as long as its cheap of course......
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when you say play do you mean radial or rotational? There will always be some play especially radially and I think it would have to be huge to make a knock so its much more likely to be something else such as a bush/mounting on: suspension, tie arms, leaf spring, differential, gearbox, exhaust etc
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I prefer the cheapest 95 and then adding an octane/lead substitute as I havent got the harder valve seats. I use Millers VSP and price wise it works out about the same as the higher octane fuels....
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well on a long run cruising around 60mph Ive had 34mpg (or maybe even a bit more due to the bigger tyres) but Ive taken a lot of care setting mine up. If you have OD not sure what difference it will make as it does drop the engine revs but also absorbs quite a lot of drive power. Fuel tank takes 40L but the gauge can be unreliable so yes a fuel can isnt a bad idea....
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Ive got 13" minilites on mine with 165/80 tyres (dont think it looks right with 14" and lower profile tyres) which helps drop the revs a little (no overdrive) but of course also makes the speedo swinging needle indicate a bit low....
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looking very closely with a magnifying glass at the ring inner grooves can also give an indication of how much use it has had. This cant tell you if its no good but at least helps to put them in order of wear which can then be used to decide where to place each one in the rebuilt box - worn 1st, best 2nd, next best 3rd, worn 4th etc
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I still suspect that there can be quite a variation in how far the mainshaft protrudes into the input shaft which the original design can allow. Otherwise it doesnt make sense (unless the longer bearing wasnt available in those days) that Triumph went to all the trouble of uprating this bearing only to then make it weaker than need be.....
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How much of a skim will you ask for? Maybe a little extra to increase the compression ratio.....
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I must admit that I have toyed with the idea of black stripes down the sides but so far have resisted.....
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well old english white would have been best but Wedgie blue is nice! Ive had mine since 1987 so watch out theyre addictive😵
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Congratulations, thats the best Triumph you could have bought especially if its a fixed head😍 Dont hesitate to ask on here for loads of opinions😂
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SIP Compressor blowing breaker long before pressure is reached.
johny replied to Colin Lindsay's topic in Tools
modern breakers arent heat operated but use electronics to measure the current. I ask once again, how hot is the motor getting? -
SIP Compressor blowing breaker long before pressure is reached.
johny replied to Colin Lindsay's topic in Tools
is the motor getting hot? Sometimes the motors have a thermal switch in the windings that trips if too hot and resets itself automatically when cooled off. It would explain why you dont get a low pressure restart even though the circuit breaker has been reset. If this is the case then theres too much load on the motor which is most likely to be a compressor problem..... -
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I think he was only driving on the Sandringham Estate which presumibly is private and Im not sure you have to wear seat belts then....
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Theres some experts on here who Im sure will be able to tell us for sure....
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Roger is the original inner spacer (0.210") standard? It doesnt look like the item shown in the manuals....
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Roger, what are you going to do with the layshaft? If its in pretty good shape maybe best to reuse it as the pattern replacements dont always appear to be very good in that their surface hardening is poor so the rollers wear through it quite quickly.....
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Its not so much of a weak point in your gearbox as its a vast improvement on the much smaller bearing used in my 3 rail unit. I think with yours the layshaft bearings are probably the weakest area as they are the same in both types of gearbox and certainly undersized for the 2L six.....
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Thanks. Ive attached a page from the TR7 manual that shows the single rail internals (presumibly the same design as those used in other models) and as you say it looks like there is room for a longer bearing. Maybe the original idea was to ensure there was sufficient space for slight variations in the two shafts positions due to case casting differences, thermal expansion, bearing wear etc. Triumph TR7 gearbox.pdf
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Hi Roger, you show the dimensions in mm but isnt it an imperial size bearing?
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but thats the point because you cant guarantee more expensive means better quality - I believe theres a very limited number of companies manufacturing spares for our cars now as theres just not sufficient demand so often theres just one supplying a particular item and you can pay a lot or a little for it but in the end get the same thing!
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yes Id even pay more to get better quality parts but market economics seems to dictate that its a race to the bottom cos you never know if the higher price youre paying equals a more reliable product.....