Havent got flange off original gearbox? Pity to shorten prop as it will be even more difficult to access the coupling bolts and short flanges are quite plentiful here. The number is from a US GT6 so looks good.....
No Joe, as Scrapman says you just need the shorter rear coupling flange to get a standard OD propshaft to fit. In fact you should be able to use the one off your non OD gearbox and it's an easy job which should make your new box 1" shorter.....
Sorry just reread your previous post and see that this box is 10cm longer than original non OD box which of course is perfectly possible. So yes that gearbox looks like it's going to be the same length as a standard Vitesse OD one....
Yes that's a J type OD but I can't understand why it's so much longer than the original box when normally you would expect no more than 1" difference compared to the standard D type gearbox. The serial number stamped on the top RH side of the cast iron gear case would be useful to know as well....
Ive wondered about using one of those old triumph floor mounted switches you see so much on ebay to operate the overdrive. Would be pretty convenient if theres room next to the clutch pedal.....
I think you got the explanation there right because a rise in ambient temp can't produce enough pressure to lift the cap otherwise the system could be sitting there with 13psi in it which would make opening the cap difficult. Also don't forget the hoses expand slightly. I think I calculated my system produces an expansion of about 250cc from 0 to 100c....
I think on the 4A, unlike the Vit, the heater isn't the highest point so if coolant level is a bit below the cap it's no problem while on the Vit your heater stops working😩
Hmmm sounds like new rad should be on the shopping list and if the budget is tight I really recommend an ally chinese Honda Civic one even though it does require a bit of fettling. Also is your controller powered up all the time to allow the fan to run on?
Yes I'm quite pleased by the way the temperature rise after stopping the engine is controlled now. It certainly helps a lot with a hot restart as the fan running reduces under bonnet heat build up as well....
I think if the electric fan is set up to run on after engine stop the thermosyphon effect will be considerably increased at least until the wax thermostat closes
As long as the thermostat is open don't forget that the thermosyphon effect will still give a certain amount of coolant circulation. Mine needed a bit of choke on a restart after quite short stops until I adjusted the fan settings.....
Ahh I thought I saw somewhere the thermostat was fully open about 3deg after the start temperature. 15 to 20 makes more sense although I haven't seen much of a change in running temp on my gauge by going to a 78 thermo☹️
Ok I can understand the modulating effect but if an 82* thermostat is working fine in the winter why shouldn't it be ok in summer? If the coolant temperature has gone too high the thermostat will be fully open and putting in a lower temp thermostat won't help!
I can see how it works if your engine runs cold as the thermostat starts to close so reducing cooling and increasing engine temp. A higher temp thermostat will open later so forcing the system to run hotter but the reverse😳