johny

one thing: as I understand it lbf/inch at the wheel is the weight needed, with the spring clamped rigidly in the middle, to cause an inch of deflection on one side only. This value is doubled if you want to place the spring on flat ground and put weight in the middle of it to give the same inch of movement.....

good to know thanks, I might have a go at that one day.....

out of interest how long did it take to do each bore and whats the procedure?

Thanks yes I didnt think I was going to get a response on the other forum so tried on here and have now had answers on both which fortunately agree! It looks like the car battery is used for the return from the spark plugs and I wonder if thats why many years ago vehicle electrics changed over to -ve earth....

Can anyone tell me how the ignition HT circuit is completed? I want to understand the route the spark takes to return to the secondary circuit in the coil after jumping the spark plug gap. It appears it doesnt return via the coil casing but through its 12v +ve terminal as this is connected internally to both the primary AND secondary windings!!!!!

I can get my Stromberg mixture adjustment pretty good using the test plunger on each carb but also I know when my 6 is too lean as it hesitates slightly when driving. If it does that then a couple of flats richer on each one cures it.....

Have a look at the rest of the car: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-VITESSE-MK-2-CONVERTIBLE-2-5-LITRE-1969-FOR-RESTORATION-COLLECT-LONDON/192860778345?hash=item2ce765ef69:g:~qUAAOSwX2JcjkCk

How about something like this lovely Vitesse on fleabay at the moment

I believe it should have suspension mods as well to ensure it sits and rides correctly. The rover engine reportedly weighs quite a bit less than the original

Those needles are probably from the laygear and could have fallen out during the last gearbox rebuild. If they look in good condition thats almost certainly whats happened and its easily done when putting the assembly back into place.....

Its likely to run down the operating rod onto the release bearing arm where it could go down onto the bearing carrier. However here I cant see it going any further to contaminate the friction plate as it'll drip off the carrier into the inside of the bellhousing and out through its bottom drain hole.

Heres one and yes if you go mad with long bolts they will come up against the main bearing cap. Otherwise its a good idea to use as much of the threads as possible and Ive used sealing washers cos I was getting oil coming down the open threads....

As I said in a parallel thread the front alloy bridge at least has open ended sump holes so there is a bit of spare room and maybe the longer bolts go in there. Certainly seems strange you have 4 longer ones and 4 holes into the alloy bridges plus with aluminium you do want to use as much of the thread as possible.....

I believe the sump threaded holes in the alloy bridge are actually open ended so will accept longer bolts (within limits). I realised this after tapping them to M10 in situ when any swarf produced must have gone into the sump, doh! Now I have sealing washers under the heads of the new allen bolts to stop oil leaking down the threads....

I believe the metric pin is smaller diameter than the imperial one so drilling the callipers no help....

ok how does the car behave when you stop after a good run? Does the temperature increase rapidly on tickover or stay the same - this can be a good indicator of how much spare 'capacity' there is in the cooling system and whether you are actually running hot....

Your right about the rad filler cap being lower than the heater but Ive found that on the first run after system filling the heater should fill (I achieve this by opening and closing the heater water control valve a few times) and then should stay filled by syphon effect. The rad might then need a top up but the system should remain stable unless theres a leak somewhere. If small this can be undetectable under pressure as the water leaking flashes off to steam however on cooling the slight vacuum produced draws air in which eventually causes the heater to lose prime. If the hot running is real it could be causes by fuel mixture. I had air ingress via the carb spindles which gave a weak mixture which I couldnt adjust for and made the engine produce more heat than it should.....

He's got to be a one off! Most testers think Triumph only make bikes🤗

well yes eventually if you keep packing more in youll reduce airflow too much. However modern design and manufacturing techniques now allow closer to the optimum ratio of cooling surface area and airflow. Somethings have improved in 50 years.....

Is there much in the fuel pump filter (assuming you still got the mechanical type) and wheres all this crud coming from?

Looks like the angled one is supposed to give improved 'oil pick up performance' and the suction pipe certainly looks longer than the older type. There has been reports of replacement pumps having poor clearances from new and yours does sound a bit on the big side (how are the other two measurements?) but dont forget the pressure relief valve is supposed to open at 45 - 55psi. In fact the PRV is something else to check as it could be stuck open or its spring weakened.....

Definitely Chris and in some cases, if you havent been able to acid clean your block and recore the rad, some type of additional cooling help maybe required. And nothing humble about the Herald - in some ways its the better design...

well I think a few of things have changed in ~50 years which they probably didnt test for including the deterioration of some of our cars cooling circuits.....

well somebody was doing 4 rows fitted into 3 row vit rads on ebay but I think you need to be careful because to me it looked like they had just widened the spacing to allow staggered rows. Its the total number of tubes (as long as theyre still the same size of course) that counts and while the original had 1/2" spacing modern 'uprated' cores are 1cm so rather than the 3 x 30 they should now have more like 3 x 40 tubes. Theres also the cooling fins which can be more densely packed so all in all giving more cooling surface....

Obviously if theres no temperature problem with a mechanical why change? And if the problem is at higher speeds I dont think any fan, mech or elec, is going to help as something else must be wrong. However if you suffer high temperatures in traffic or on restarting AND all the rest of the cooling system is as good as you can get it (plus of course your fuel mix isnt too lean) I think a good elec fan set up must help for the reasons I put earlier.....